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changed plugs car wont start
decided to do my plugs so I got a box of NGK=right
BR8EQ14 from autozone I noticed after I installed and removed all 4 of the plugs that 2 of the 4 plugs had red numbers like a bar code on it. the car would not start at all I called a friend at t and r racing and he told me about leading and trailing so I skeep playing with the plugs until it fired up I keep searching but cant seem to find about which plug goes where and which is leading and which is trailing front or rear rotor ? never want to go threw that again stuck at autozone and having a 500 pound renacop telling u u cant fix ur car in there lot when your broke down suckedddddddddddddd I returned all 4 plugs and was given 2 plugs the ones with out the red bar code on the box I installed them on the top 1 and bottom 1 rotor |
The plugs you purchased were the correct for a stock 1st gen RX7. Engine transplants or modified engines may require a different leading/trailing plug. All 1st gens have no different leading/trailing plugs,they all use BR8EQ14 NGK plugs.
Regarding how to identify which is leading and which trailing: Leading ignition spark plug is in the lower position on the engine/trailing on top. Look closely at the area where plugs are installed in rotor housings. Over top of the eyebrow where plugs are installed there is an L cast into the leading position and a T cast into trailing position. Or if it's easier...L-Lower=Leading Spark Plug T-Top=Trailing Spark Plug The set of plugs closest to front of car are in 1st rotor housing and designated L1 and T1. The rear housing is L2 and T2. Make sure your spark plug wires go from the distributor cap to the correct plug. L1/T1/L2/T2 positions are all molded into top of distributor cap so it's easy to trace plug wires to be sure they're in the right location. Have never seen a new defective NGK sparkplug out of the box. They can be damaged by being installed with the wrong type of plug socket that doesn't have the rubber porcelain protector in it which allows the socket to go off center and crack or chip spark plugs,this happens to non rotary engines too. I recall your previous post about ignition coils and have the notion you're having ignition problems and or flooding problems. You may want to test spark output at all spark plugs when your no start happens. Remove all plugs,insert them in their plug wires and lay on top of engine to ground them and crankor have someone crank engine for about 30 seconds while you observe quality and color of spark at plugs. They should all spark consistently and the color should be blue. Orange is weak spark and this condition along with no spark on any plug would need to be investigated. Igniter failure(mounted on distributor body-tell the ignition coils when to fire) whether intermittent(some fail as engine temp heats them up) or no spark from coil at all is not uncommon as these cars age. They can be tested,ignition coils can be tested,then checking wiring from igniters to coils and being certain there is power at the coils when no start happens. If no power could be a failing fuse link on left fenderwell which is easy to test with a test light,or it could be a failing ignition switch or failing wire connection from switch to coilswhich is possible in a 30+year . old car. Some time spent on diagnosis will discover source of problem(s). May want to get engine compression tested as low compression makes any rotary engine hard to start,especially a hot restart. |
^ what he said. but this about them not letting u work in the parking lot? i see people doing this all the time. they probably wont install a battery or wiper blades for a customer either. send a customer complaint to the home office.
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bro that's prolly where ur at in nyc there actually hire armed guards to control the lots is crazy out here in nyc
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so I can put any plug any where and it should start up correct ? weird cuz I swear the car was not starting until I started playing with plugs so all 4 plugs that come in the box are the same ?
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Yes,1st gens use same leading and trailing plugs. Certain the car starting after you were "playing" with plugs is merely a coincidence unless you somehow moved a poor connection while you were working with plugs,wires. 1st post I gave you the why/what/how to begin looking for this problem. Best time to start is when...it won't start. Immediately pull all the plugs,are they wet with fuel? Next put them into their plug wires and lay on engine to ground them and crank and check for spark? If you have no spark,follow recommendations in my prior post. Couple questions...when the car starts up does it idle fine like everything is normal or does it smoke or run rough and maybe try to stall before it settles down. When it won't start can you smell raw gas at tailpipe? You said you returned plugs you bought,what condition are the plugs in your engine right now? If you're not sure how to read plugs,pull them out,take a pic of them-the business end and sides and post here in your thread so we can see what plugs you have in it. |
I have 4 BR8EQ14 2 new ones in the front rotor and 2 old ones in the back they don't look to bad im just goin to buy another 2 for the rear autozone only had 2 at the time
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if only buying 2 new plugs, put them in the leading plug holes.
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I installed the 2 new ones in the top 1 and lower 1 2 old at the other 2 im just going to buy another 2 is only 12 bucks
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