Carb questions, emissions and simplification.
 

i'm doing a complete emissions removal on my 12a thats going into my rex soon (with any luck). I have 2 motors, one is an 80, with blown apex seals and a lot of broken stuff on it, and then i have what seems to be a 83 or later 12a, as it has the deeper dish flywheel (which means i need to swap flywheels...is that possible? or get a new clutch)

anywho, i have a lot of pictures on my site http://home.earthlink.net/~jutny/RX7/ ... the ones that are DSFC, the others are pics of the car that i got before i bought it.

you'll see pics of the carb and intake removed, this is what i've done so far, the rats nest is also gone.

i'm attaching the pic with the vacuum nipples highlited, starting from the left, they are 1-6, which ones get plugged, and what to do with the ones that dont? I tried searching around, but all the pics that i assumed would be good are all redX's so they are not very useful.

in the pictures that show the dizzy and oil fil and filter/cooler assy, which lines need what?

also, are there anythings that can be removed from the carb, all i need/want is throttle and choke so i can start it when it's cold... and i see no reason for more than half the things on the Nikki, but i also see no real easy way to take them off.... lemme know what you know, or point me to a place with working pictures that illustrate the answers.

Being a citizen of NJ and having a rotary, I can tell you that I doubt it would pass the smog test with the rats nest removed from that 83 or later engine.
As for removing that stuff, pull the vacuum hoses off below the carb and take the bolts out that hold the "nest" down to the block.
Bear in mind that some of those solenoid valves on the "nest" might be important to you, such as if you want your air conditioning to work; that's the white connector.
It's pretty straight forward to remove. If you need more detail, do a search for 'Rats nest'. If you do get it to pass without the emissions stuff on the engine, drop me a line! :)

i dont have AC, and i dont want it... i already have one car that i have to get "passed" on emissions, so i might as well have 2 of them

where in Jersey are you?

Buy a vacuum line tee and hook both vacuum advance lines together. Then run one line from the tee to somewhere on the carb baseplate. Run a line from the oil filler tube to the carb (you can also put a little filter on it if you want) for your "PCV" setup, and cap everything else.

You can remove the air pump and also the ACV valve on the intake, but you'll have to have a block off plate for the ACV and you will also have to have no converters. The RB exhuast you want will do nicely.

okay, sounds good.

i have to run the thermal reactor for a while though, so i assume i have to leave the air pump and the ACV on until i take it off? or not.

am i supposed to have an external oil cooler on this engine, or is that what that funky thing with the filter is?

there are also mad vacuum pots on the carb assembly itself, i assume these also all need vacuum?

and yeah, the car looks pretty damn good for $300 (with both motors), i gotta get new pictures with my friends camera now that the interior is together. Its a nice paint job, but there is some rot on the car in places.... nothing TOO bad though.

Take that water-oil cooler off and put the 80 engine's oil filter pedestal on it. The car should have an air-oil cooler under the radiator. You will need to cut the heater hose fitting off some once you do this. Use new o-rings on the pedestal. There is a plug on the rear side housing that you have to take out and put a banjo bolt in its place to use the air-oil cooler lines.

The only vacuum you need is the vacuum advance, and the brake booster. All the other shit you can cap off.

I would not try running the thermal reactor, I would use the good engine's exhaust manifold and rig the exhaust up somehow to work.

the radiatior that i got with the car dosent have the additional oil cooler on it, at least i dont think it did.... i looked but i wasnt sure

i cant rig up the exhaust, cause the thermal reactor exits straight out, and the good manifold exits slanting down, it would not meet up at all... i guess i'm gonna be stuck with the grief of the thermal reactor removal whenever i finally get the exhaust... money is the limiting factor, parents wont let me borrow it to buy it... bastages... i do have a job, but i'm still in the hole with my parents, so thats why i cant borrow i guess...

its a really shitty situiation.

I don't know if you can even use a thermal reactor on a later engine.

You should find the oil cooler and lines that go to the car. I'd imagine you could make the later one work, but they suck.

Don't forget to provide some sort of fuel tank purging system. On my '80 the fuel tank purge line is connected to the carbon canister inside the air filter lid. The fuel tank must be kept in an air-starved condition or else when the tank guage sending unit arcs (and they do in normal operation), well, you can guess the rest. -Mike