Building motor questions...
08-20-11, 08:33 AM
#1
Building motor questions...
I'm starting to gather parts for an engine build.
I pulled a pair of 6 port plates that for the most part look clean but have small little pits on the face... My fingernail doesn't really get caught on them (it does slightly one one of the darker ones). Anyways I posted a pic but it doesn't really show it all that well. They are the small darker areas around the port area.
What'd you guys think..??? All three look about the same... small concentrated spots on one area of the entire surface.
I pulled a pair of 6 port plates that for the most part look clean but have small little pits on the face... My fingernail doesn't really get caught on them (it does slightly one one of the darker ones). Anyways I posted a pic but it doesn't really show it all that well. They are the small darker areas around the port area.
What'd you guys think..??? All three look about the same... small concentrated spots on one area of the entire surface.
12-21-11, 09:44 AM
#6
I'm getting ready to order a master rebuild kit, (87TII). Racingbeat has it for $1580.00 & Atkins has it for $1120.00 Only difference I can see btwn the two is RB's is OEM Mazda everything, and Atkins uses their own apex seals, soild corner seals, viton oil seals and thermal pellet repacement....? Any input before I take the dive woud be utmost appreciated.
The motors going to be using 12A plates, S4 rotor housings already machined to accept the coolant seals & a S4 TurboII rotating assemby. It'll be replacing my 74 13B 4port which is a N/A nitrous setup, (she's leaking coolant btwn the housings).
The motors going to be using 12A plates, S4 rotor housings already machined to accept the coolant seals & a S4 TurboII rotating assemby. It'll be replacing my 74 13B 4port which is a N/A nitrous setup, (she's leaking coolant btwn the housings).
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12-22-11, 11:12 PM
#8
Yea... I been searching / reading alot since and it seems everything aways comes back around to OEM being the best route. I vaguely recall something about re-useabe coolant seals but can't seem to find it now. Anyone know the brand or have a link..?
12-24-12, 05:06 AM
#9
Well a year later (lol) and I've picked up myself some goodies... Pineapple HD O-ring Set and Coolant System Pressure Tester. I picked up the grooved housings 2nd hand, so before I drop cash and time into rebuilding her, I figured I'd test them to see if she holds. Right now I'm having trouble w/an air leak on one of the rear plate freeze out plugs..
12-24-12, 08:13 PM
#10
a year later and still working, eh? i can definitely relate to that. i have 4 rotaries and an Audi 2.7 that have been "coming together" since about 2008. since the, all i've managed to put together for myself is a grand total of 1 engine (the 13B in my Gen II)
all that matters is progress, bro. keep plugging away. you'll get there.
well, i know you said you already got the Pineapple seals, but this is the first time i'm seeing this so i'll try to answer for the hell of it. i'm tempted to say it was McMaster-Carr and i'm also tempted to say it was a BDC thread.
all that matters is progress, bro. keep plugging away. you'll get there.
well, i know you said you already got the Pineapple seals, but this is the first time i'm seeing this so i'll try to answer for the hell of it. i'm tempted to say it was McMaster-Carr and i'm also tempted to say it was a BDC thread.
12-24-12, 09:10 PM
#12
Yea I have a fleet of projects haha so it's not like I'm lazy. Plus the motor I'm replacing still starts right up, only problem/s being the slooooow coolant drip btwn housings (nothing a quick coolant top off doesn't fix) and a **** load of smoke upon start up if I let her sit tooo long. She still feels strong though. I have a 100 shot of nitrous installed and waiting for this motor to get finished. I don't want to hurt the block that's coming out.
Thanks Colin. Definatly still at it.
Two freeze out plugs in the rear plate are sloooooowly leaking air @ 20 psi. I knocked them out, put a slight bead of JB Weld and knocked them back in... 24 hrs later, still leaking. So, tommorow being Christmas, the parts store will be closed. I'll have to wait until Wends. which is exactly why it takes so long.
Anyone have any input on exhaust sleeves...? The housings I'm using came with them already removed. Is it worth the effort to put them back...??
MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL..
Thanks Colin. Definatly still at it.
Two freeze out plugs in the rear plate are sloooooowly leaking air @ 20 psi. I knocked them out, put a slight bead of JB Weld and knocked them back in... 24 hrs later, still leaking. So, tommorow being Christmas, the parts store will be closed. I'll have to wait until Wends. which is exactly why it takes so long.
Anyone have any input on exhaust sleeves...? The housings I'm using came with them already removed. Is it worth the effort to put them back...??
MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL..
12-26-12, 01:47 PM
#14
FWIW -- I know your post about the master rebuild kit was a long time ago, but . . .
The last time I rebuilt my engine, I disassembled it first, decided which parts needed to be replaced, then ordered those specific parts. It ended up being a lot cheaper than the full kit. YMMV
The last time I rebuilt my engine, I disassembled it first, decided which parts needed to be replaced, then ordered those specific parts. It ended up being a lot cheaper than the full kit. YMMV
12-29-12, 01:32 AM
#15
Freeze out plugs came today. I couldn't wait Christmas Eve and just ordered them online. A mechanic buddy of mine told me to smear a light coat of JB Weld on the sealing surface before installing awhile back and it's worked well in the past, so just waiting for the JB to set 24 hrs again before pressure testing once more. In the meantime to stay busy I cleaned and painted my 6 port plates and rotor housings 
I noticed a couple of "ohh no's". A broken ear where the transmission bolts to on the rear plate and another set of housings w/ no sleeves again, except this time whoever drilled out the pins to remove them made the drill hole so big it's into the coolant sealing surface. 
Elwood, I like the idea of ordering a master rebuild kit only to have a slew of parts handy from whatever is left over for the next build/s. If I had $ to throw around like that it'd have been ordered and I'd be flaunting pics already.
I noticed a couple of "ohh no's". A broken ear where the transmission bolts to on the rear plate and another set of housings w/ no sleeves again, except this time whoever drilled out the pins to remove them made the drill hole so big it's into the coolant sealing surface. Elwood, I like the idea of ordering a master rebuild kit only to have a slew of parts handy from whatever is left over for the next build/s. If I had $ to throw around like that it'd have been ordered and I'd be flaunting pics already.
12-29-12, 02:35 AM
#16
talking head
f%ck me,, what idiot couldnt push the pin through the other direction with a drift !!
as for that ear,, i have broken a few of them off using my one man jig to steady the automass while TQ off the rear nut
no biggie/// have been deliberately leaving that bolt out anyway for nearly 20 yrs in my rx2 !! never once had an issue ..
PS
have been caught once where i ported a plate before noticing the ear to hold starter was broken.. into the bin with that one ..
as for that ear,, i have broken a few of them off using my one man jig to steady the automass while TQ off the rear nut
no biggie/// have been deliberately leaving that bolt out anyway for nearly 20 yrs in my rx2 !! never once had an issue ..
PS
have been caught once where i ported a plate before noticing the ear to hold starter was broken.. into the bin with that one ..
12-30-12, 12:48 PM
#18
I'm going to try to find a set of exhaust sleeves since both sets of housings need them. The housings w/ the giant holes from removing the exhaust sleeves were thrown to me in a pile of rotary stuff the guy just wanted gone. I'm wondering if they can still be saved since the chrome still is really decent...?
Fun facts:
Small freeze out plugs on S4 and up front plates along w/the coolant passage where the intake bolts to block are 20mm, while the bigger freeze out plugs elsewhere (ex: the four in the rear plate) are 30mm. (I had to search the forums, eventually leading me to just measure w/a digital caliper.)
The 12A plates are one tension bolt shy of S4 plates, (see middle upper right pics).
And also my 4 port build has been holding steady @ 21 psi since last night.
Fun facts:
Small freeze out plugs on S4 and up front plates along w/the coolant passage where the intake bolts to block are 20mm, while the bigger freeze out plugs elsewhere (ex: the four in the rear plate) are 30mm. (I had to search the forums, eventually leading me to just measure w/a digital caliper.)
The 12A plates are one tension bolt shy of S4 plates, (see middle upper right pics).
And also my 4 port build has been holding steady @ 21 psi since last night.
12-30-12, 02:11 PM
#20
There's a spot close by me that the guy strictly does welding. I don't understand why a new ear couldn't be built up w/weld, drilled and tapped...?? I've heard possibly bc the plates are cast of a weird mix of metal/s (don't know how true that is) but this guy is a welding genius.
12-30-12, 05:41 PM
#21
talking head
the casting is very very grainy and nasty,, yes you could possibly weld all or braise it
.. but expect very little strength,
the missing ear in this post however can just be ignored.. i have run without that bolt and or ear for more than 500 000 km , completely superflous
little observation i have made about those engines missing that bolt... i stopped cracking oil dowels .. might have more to do with progressing my tune ups.. but i always keep that missing bolt in mind as an x factor
.. but expect very little strength,
the missing ear in this post however can just be ignored.. i have run without that bolt and or ear for more than 500 000 km , completely superflous
little observation i have made about those engines missing that bolt... i stopped cracking oil dowels .. might have more to do with progressing my tune ups.. but i always keep that missing bolt in mind as an x factor
12-30-12, 07:32 PM
#24
I was refering to the Iron Bumpstart tossed in the bin for the starter bolt. I'm going w/KCrepu's idea if any at all. The 6port motor is getting all the crap I have laying around. I'm even thinking of some slightly stretched OEM coolant seals I have from a motor that didn't make it very far on a roooookie rebuild w/100 miles tops. I'm wondering if I can neatly angle cut them and crazy glue those suckers back together...?
The 6port motor is getting all the crap I have laying around. I'm even thinking of some slightly stretched OEM coolant seals I have from a motor that didn't make it very far on a roooookie rebuild w/100 miles tops. I'm wondering if I can neatly angle cut them and crazy glue those suckers back together...?
