Building a motor question...?
 

I am putting together a motor for my 85 and I am using a GSL-SE rotating assembly. The rotors have been moved around so many times over the past few years in storage, I no longer know which is the front and which is the rear. The complete rotating assembly came out of a stock motor so Im thinking its important to put it back together the same. Am i wrong...? If not how do I figure out which is which...?? Thanks for any help.

13B rotors are the same front or rear.

Nice. Thanks for the quick reply.

My buddy said to weigh them and heavier goes to the front to compensate for the flywheel. So I weighed them and they were the same to the 100th of a gram.

Nice. Thanks for the quick reply.

My buddy said to weigh them and heavier goes to the front to compensate for the flywheel. So I weighed them and they were the same to the 100th of a gram.

the rotors are the same front to rear, the only concern is the bearing, ideally they would go back on the same journal, although in practice it doesn't seem to matter

yea they should go back in the same way but it should be ok

Any thoughts on which apex seals I should get...?

It's a 13B 4 port motor I'm building. 12A plates, S4 rotor housings machined to accept the coolant seals and GSL-SE rotating assembly. Stock port for now w a 100 shot of nitrous.

I have a set of oem 3mm SE apex seals that are measuring 8.10mm in height but the corners on 5 out of the 6 small triangular pieces are slightly cracked instead of worn at the tips. What causes that..? Can I just order new triangles...??

I'm not trying to save a buck so ordering new stuff is not a problem, I just don't want to spend $$$ on something I already have.

Thanks in advance.

Where did you get the housings machined for coolant seals? Is it a regular service?
Everyone's going to ask that, so I'll get the ball rolling.

Mazdatrix sells the seal pieces

Are those seals used?

Someone had them for sale in the classified section.

I already assembled the housings and did a pressure test to see if the coolant passages held. That was over a year ago. The pressure held the whole year at 20psi until the cold winter temps, it then dropped to 18. :) The only thing I don't like about them is the exhaust sleeves are removed.

The cracked tips are from me assembling (actually more like slapping together) a motor prob over 10 years ago that didn't run. The apex seals looked good but I was missing 2 tips. I just ordered 6 new tips and ran them all. I didn't measure anything back then. I'm trying to not make the same mistakes I've made in the past.

I was thinking new apex seals only bc with the nitrous some of the aftermarket seals don't seem to break and destroy everything.

What's the difference btwn square and rounded tips...??

Attachment 652153

Attachment 652154

The answer was right in my face.

New Page 2

I think I'm going to try these.

:) Love coming home to parts after a loooong day of work.

Attachment 651590

Yea they are very nice get those don't get Adkins

So the little chip on the apex seal gouged the rotor, not bad tho. Very small. I picked up a small file set and fixed it.

Everything went together smoothly.

I'm having a brain fart...? The book says flywheel lock washer, bend the tab up against one face of the nut. I cant seem to find it though..? In any of my parts boxes...?? Last thing I want to be doing is always thinking of the flywheel.

I know I ask stupid questions sometimes. I'd appreciate any response at all in regards to the flywheel lock washer. I have to stop letting so much time pass btwn working on this thing. Thanks in advance.

Heading out to get some locktite.

Most of my flywheels don't have that lock washer...torque it to spec and it should be fine. Loc-tite is a good idea too.

Thanks Cfam..

Motor spins good and compression feels strong. Still have to assemble the front end and set flywheel movement.

So I picked up a dial indicator and according to the Haynes book end play is supposed to be btwn 0.0016 and 0.0028. Then it says limit is 0.0035. I'm at exactly 0.0040 with the original GSL-SE spacer. Close enough or play with other spacers...? I do have a few.

i'd play with it, you would really rather have it between .0016 and .0028

Ok, thanks J9. :)

So I ordered two next sized larger spacers from Mazdatrix. One size up seemed to do the trick and landed me slightly over 1.5.

My next dilemma is the chain from the oil pump to the gear on the eccentric shaft sees wayyyy too loose...??

I'm using 12A plates w a 12A oil pump. I believe the chain is off a GSL-SE...???

there are only 2 oil pump chains, 74-85 and 86-2008, so just use the one that is tighter