Breaking in a new motor, How should it be done?
 

Alright guys, I know I have been like a freakin' ghost as of late, between family matters, life, and the electrical nightmare that is going to be my wiring harness I haven't touched my car in a while. But I just finished a CTi Course and the instructor mentioned something I haven't heard of yet and I figured I'd ask this before I fuck up my nice new engine. :scratch:

Basically he was talking about how the oil these days is missing a lot of the additives they used to and that if replacing engine parts on a boinger you should look for what special oil or additives the manufactuer reccomends to prevent engine damage. An example he gave us is replacing the camshaft and using just the normal oil it took to break the camshaft in resulted in the cam lobes being worn off. Needless to say that got my attention and I was worried of fucking up a seal or something on my rebuilt motor.

So here's the question(s):

~What oil should be used when breaking in a new or rebuilt motor?
~What is the proper procedure?

A small note I would like to add is that I plan on doing the OMP modification an running something like Royal Purple in the oilpan while running 2 Stroke oil from a separate reservoir.

Your input and help is greatly appreciated you guys and I promise I'll be getting off my lazy ass and finishing up that damned wiring harness soon. :rolleyes:

good thing we don't have cams!

break in on these engines is pretty simple.

you wanna crank it over with no fuel, to build oil pressure before you start it first

then you wanna fast idle it for a while (10-45minutes, 45 minutes is all we used to do on the race cars...).

run it for 600-1000 miles keeping the revs under 4000rpm, and maybe 50% throttle.

change the oil, and beat the s%&$&% out of it

Any particular weight of oil/2 stroke oil I should use? Keep in mind I plan on having a separate tank for the 2 stroke to be injected and a good quality synthetic in the oilpan.

tcw3 and 20w50? if you are going to get the rp stuff get the race oil from RB

Its the ZDDP additive that is missing from the newer oils. The only engines that it can cause a problem in are cars running a flat tappet camshaft. Cars with roller cams and rotary motors shouldnt be affected. People that are concerned about it are going with racing oils or diesel oils that still have ZDDP.

any TCW3 for the 2 stroke, oil isn't important either. 10-30, 10-40, 20-50, or straight 30, as long as its wet and slippery

Thanks for clearing that up, it was worrying me... Also just to let you know there are small number of roller cam engines affected, I believe the Ford 4.8l and maybe two more from what our instructor was telling us.

Still, that was very helpful and has lessened my fear of kabooming my engine. :)

From my reading, on first start set the idle at 2k and run for 20 minutes. First 500 miles, no more than 4k, next 500 no more than 5k, then another 500 at 6k. Change oil at 500 and 1500 miles. Do not do any steady state driving during breakin. Vary the rpms with stop and go in town driving. If rebuild included new housings or bearings extend the first 500 miles/4k rpm to 1000 miles. It takes longer to breakin/seat bearings and housings than it does apex seals.

That ZPPD stuff will certainly eat up a good solid lift cam QUICK.... We made this mistake in one of our race engines a while ago, before we knew to run the Comp Cams cam break in additive.

Again, not that we have to worry about that in Rotary Engines, but it does make a difference in the thumpers.