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-   -   Bare minimun to get 12a running well? (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/bare-minimun-get-12a-running-well-1130952/)

Southern_Rotary 10-21-18 08:18 PM
Bare minimun to get 12a running well?
 
As I'm getting closer to finishing up my 12a '85 GS with some GSL bits, I'm wondering what is the minimum needed to get the car started and running, mainly ignition and vacuum line wise. I have a full working 12a with a stock intake, and stock Nikki carb that was originally off an automatic (It has the kickdown arm and cable, atleast I think) with a basic exhaust. I'm also running an aftermarket fuel cell with an inline pump with a regulator, and with that what should I set my fuel pressure to work properly with the Nikki? Motor is a bone stock 12a, no porting or anything. This car has been apart for too long and I need to get it up again.

t_g_farrell 10-22-18 09:48 AM
Nikki likes about 2.5 psi, thats right, 2.5 psi. Over that and it will start doing odd things at idle and at shutoff. You don't mention the rats nest but if its there you have to make sure all the vacuum lines are good and no leaks.

Southern_Rotary 10-22-18 11:26 AM
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell (Post 12308867)
Nikki likes about 2.5 psi, thats right, 2.5 psi. Over that and it will start doing odd things at idle and at shutoff. You don't mention the rats nest but if its there you have to make sure all the vacuum lines are good and no leaks.
No rat's nest right now, however I do have some spares. How do I run the vacuum advance without the rat's nest? Just go directly from the carb plate nubs to the distributor?

racerx01 10-22-18 11:36 AM
Run the vacuum advance to the second plate port from the front of car, I still run it there even having mechanical secondaries. Ditto on 2.5 PSI for fuel pressure. If you have rat's delete, you still need to run vacuum for use in cruise control and for brake system. There is a good PDF of rat's nest delete in archives.

Southern_Rotary 10-22-18 01:46 PM
Originally Posted by racerx01 (Post 12308906)
Run the vacuum advance to the second plate port from the front of car, I still run it there even having mechanical secondaries. Ditto on 2.5 PSI for fuel pressure. If you have rat's delete, you still need to run vacuum for use in cruise control and for brake system. There is a good PDF of rat's nest delete in archives.
No cruise control or anything. This is a fully stripped out FB. Do I run two vacuum lines to two different ports or t the 2 lines from the distributor to 1 to then go into a single carb plate port?

t_g_farrell 10-22-18 02:47 PM
Originally Posted by Southern_Rotary (Post 12308953)
No cruise control or anything. This is a fully stripped out FB. Do I run two vacuum lines to two different ports or t the 2 lines from the distributor to 1 to then go into a single carb plate port?
Single line from second nipple from the front of the space to a tee to connect each vacuum advance pod.

Southern_Rotary 10-23-18 12:04 AM
Went to my shop today and started to piece together stuff. Was able to get some vacuum line and a tee for the vacuum advance and was able to mock everything up. Thank you everyone for the info. Although one more thing I am curious about is how to properly time the dizzy. What marks do I align the crank pulley with to make sure I'm inserting it at the rotary equivalent of TDC?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...11bba4c753.jpg


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