Attempting to convert points to electronic ignition. Input please?
 

So I recently put a motor from an '82 into my '79. Unfortunately, the wiring didn't match up to swap dizzys (dizzies?). I am looking at both wiring diagrams side-by-side to figure out if I can switch from points to electronic. I think I have figured it out, but I don't have much experience with wiring. I'd like to know if I'm on the right track here.

First, it appears that in both vehicles, a wire runs from the ignition switch to the positive terminal on both coils. On the '79 though, there is an ignition relay in between the switch and the coil. It is not in the picture, but the BY wire travels back to the ignition switch. The same wire runs to the 2 condensers on the '79 and 1 condenser on the '82.

Second, there is a mess of resistors and relays that are shown above the ignition relay that are not present on the '82. Are these not needed in a system with electronic ignition?

Third, there is the wire running from the Emission Control Unit that goes to the negative terminal on one coil and then to the tachometer. I assume this would remain unchanged.

Can I just remove the '79 coils and dizzy and wire in the '82 hardware using the same wire coming from the ignition switch? Or is this probably too much work for what I will get out of it? Is electronic ignition that much better than points? Enough so to warrant all of this time and effort?

Also, what are these condensers? What function do they perform?

Thanks for any input!

Attachment 758425

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first, locate the TDC using the flywheel tick then install the electronic distributor. Attached the stock igniter harness to the igniters, black with yellow stripe to coil's + termnal and the thin yellow with blue or green wire to coil negative. Dont worry about that condenser wire, I dont use it.

Now, you will need a 12-V. In front of the clutch master, there are relays, you can eliminate them. There is a 3-prong connector, locate a black with green stripe wire; run this wire to trailing and leading coil's + terminal as it is a good source for 12V (ignition). Another way to run 12V to coil is to use an automotive relay and use the black/green wire as your trigger.

Everything else on the driver side strut tower can be elminated, these are the stock wires associated with points ignition such as yellow/black wire, condenser, etc etc.

The condensors are there just for ignition noise suppression so you don't hear it on
your AM radio. Do like Wacky says.

i have done that exact same thing you did, it turned out to be super easy to do and i shall take pictures of it step by step so it makes it really easy to do

give me an hour or so ill have those pics for you

Wacky, thanks for the info! I'll see what snowbreaker posts and go from there. Thanks guys!

dont forget the tach wire, hook it up on the leading coil - terminal

crap...sorry i completly forgot ive been super busy messing with my own car i neglected to get those pictures....im terriblly sorry seeing as its 2 am already its going to have to wait till tomorrow

sorry again

No big, I can wait. It's not coming out this winter anyhow.

The conversion is not really a big deal but I'd be asking "why?" I did a similar conversion on my '72 Vette and it worked well but after the fact, I questioned why I did it. Points are pretty bullet proof and you can always carry a spare set to get you out of trouble if necessary. With non-factory electronics, if something goes wrong, you're SOL.

Except an RX7 uses two sets of points, so twice the chance for failure and setup or timing error.

I say get rid of the cap and rotor completely and use a DFIS system
where the only thing the dizzy does is signal spark for the leading to your ignitor
of choice and coil of choice and throw away trailing as its not needed if your leading
spark is nice and strong.

http://www.smbaker.com/sand-rail/maz...-rotary-engine

This is the only DFIS I could find. Is there some way of completely eliminating the cap and rotor?

Yes, try searching in the 1st gen section for DFIS. Theres a multitude of ways to do it. Or look at the link in my sig.

I think I am going to stick with just trying to switch it over to the '82 electronic ignition. This is a restoration project on a '79 Limited, not meant as a performance upgrade. I just want it to fire correctly and it wasn't with the points dizzy in the new engine. Thanks for the other recommendations, but I need to get the car painted now that all the body work is done. Buying a while new ignition system puts the paint job further out. I'd rather just stick with the '82 ignition.

phew ive been busy swapped a new door in while doing all the nessicary body work and i had to fix the ignition switch stuff so ive been busy, but i took a few snap shots on what you do and i will describe the rest because i pretty much used electrical tape on the wires

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1322140096

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1322140096

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1322140096

ok it breaks down in too really simple steps, first the resistor pack that has 3 input wires and 3 output wires all you have to do is: match the input with the out which they are across from each other and link them together with heat and solder or 2 wire crimp connection, now that will get rid of those resistors and you wont be need them anymore,

ok next step is to run 2 new wires of the coils and i got pics of those above-- the red wire is the new wire-- run that wire to the ignitor pack but you have to match leading coil with leading ignitor and trailing coil with trailing ignitor and you connect the red one as shown in my pictures

ok next step is now you need a negative charge going to the ignitor so there already is 2 yellow wires that ran to the old point system and i believe if i can remember correctly that you can use those to negative terminal on the ignitor but i can double check or you can run new wires if you want to redo and make it look clean--all i did was colored electrical tape--

next step is to unplug the 2 relays found up front by the headlights-- this step is found in this guide
http://www.mazspeed.com/ignitionswap.htm
now as long as your distributor is in top dead center you should be able to adjust it from there
if you have any question regarding this ill double check and take some more pictures for you
thanks and good luck
-Kyle
oh by the way --Happy Thanksgiving--

sorry for the abnormally large pictures i as i still do not know how to make them smaller