ATF write up?
 

i think my car might need this. i heard it gives good compression if your engine is really dirty. amd if im trying to deflood it, with the plugs out. it makes a soft smoother noise rather than the good thumping noise right?

can anyone tell me exactly what it is, what it does, and how to do it step by step. i think i might be ably to do it myself if its not too complicated.

or MMO? or steam cleaning or whatever?

go to mazspeed.com

they have a full write up

ill try and find the link and post it

http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm
hope that helps
i used MMO btw

thanks, that helps a lot. and now i understand why it happens. so does mmo have the same process? pour it down the carb, while turning it and all that?

what is the difference?

i dont know the difference, but i didt the exact steps in the turorial, but with MMO that was last year

im gonna do it again soon..

-greg

If it has low compression due to excessive carbon buildup around the apex seals, and if it's hard to start, regular old Castrol GTX 20W50 down the carb will do the trick. Or MMO. No need for ATF.

If it has low compression due to flattened apex springs and worn apex seals, with excessive carbon buildup (or not) around the apex seals, some MMO will free up the seals so they'll 'grip' the rotor housings at mid to high RPM at least. That is to say at least it'll be driveable... to a shop or a garage for engine work. It may still need to be tow-started in order to spin the engine fast enough to fling the seals out agaisnt the housings. ATF could be used in this case, but it just doesn't burn very well. I'd rather use Castrol oil or WD40 to be honest.

If it's a junkyard engine intended for a race car, and you've got a really long time to wait before the old one blows up, you could get away with soaking it in ATF, if you really wanted to. It might do some good, possibly. Personally, I'd use MMO in that situation because by the time the engine is needed, it will have freed apex seals.

It's what I used in my 20B, and really did a number on the carbon that was keeping the apex seals from moving freely in their slots. Even after I stopped cranking the engine, MMO kept displacing carbon. It was weird watching chunk after chunk float out.

Lastly, if your engine has carbon lock, just about anything will work, but I'd recommend MMO because it hasn't been mentioned enough times in this post yet lol. Actually, I've seen it power through, and float out carbon chunks, as mentioned above.

If it's locked due to a spun bearing, ATF will still work in your other 'automatic' piston powered car's tranny. :p:

its just my daily beeater i might suspect to have low compression. im not sure how much it will help. but i could be losing power.

what would i be better off with, mmo, or atf?


we dont have any automatics.....

MMO or engine oil down the carb. That will build up compression enough so even a somewhat slow starter will still start the engine. ATF is just nasty when it burns, and can kill your cadilac convertors.

What does MMO stand for?

marvel mystery oil

Marvel Mystery Oil can be added to gas or oil. It combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating the need for frequent adjusting. Marvel Mystery Oil retards formation of power dissipating motor deposits, such as gums, varnish, and sludge.

OK, does the MMo just burn off, , where does all the junk go?, out the exauhst?

Worst rotary engine application endorsement ever.

:D