anyone seen the new MSD??? OMG! yummy
 

so this is THE perfect way to run a 12a blowthrough turbo and im buying one of these ASAP!

read the discription
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...ble_6AL-2.aspx

so basicly you run a DFLIS with this MSD 6AL-2 6530 box and hook it up to your laptop, then you lock the dizzy, and set out your timing map in the PC program....meaning you can map the timing to work perfectly in conjunction with your boost :) these boxes are 350$ on ebay and really not completley nessicary because you could just lock the dizzy at 10* and be safe with the tried and true method but to me its worth the 350 bucks and its just plain neat! :icon_tup: My old school blowthrough project just went fancy :)

and..bought! thank you ebay :) this thing is gonna be so cool to play with :) :) :) im totally gonna do a write up of teh install and make a vid to show u guys the program and how it all works out

what about trailing??

http://www.mazspeed.com/msd.htm

i see what you mean only the leading can be mapped...hmm... i want to come up with something here have u got any ideas?

Suggestions? Make a plan before you spend money? :lol:

Most people I think run 3 boxes to do the trailing also. It seems you might have to look at purchasing more boxes...

~T.J.

EDIT: Before you ask, you cant run two because you cant have the trailing plugs fire at the same time the way you can with the leading waste spark. The trailings have to fire separately, thus the need for two more boxes. Good luck, maybe you can get a quantity discount on boxes? I think its DirectFreaks car that is/was running 3 MSD 6A boxes? At least, I dont think you could you run two boxes. Run the second box through the cap still? I dont know, because the internals of the dizzy would no longer be able to move, thus I dont think it could advance. I guess the more I think about it, youre back at 3 boxes and DFI on both leading and trailing to control advance outside the distributor. Even at that point with 3 boxes, youre still splitting the output to the coil from the leading box to two coils, and both trailing coils will get their own outputs from each box. The only way to fix that would be to run 4 boxes so that each coil has its own output and isnt shared. Kinda seems messy, haha.

aw thats too bad i forgot all about stupid trailing that would have been cool as hell to be able to run 0* timing idle and advance it when ever you wanted but not go too high...theres gotta be a way but i think it would reguire 2 boxes, 2 differnt maps, and trying to syncorinze the two would be near impossible. am i correct? p.s i didnt comit to buy yet lol i decdied to wait to see what u guys had to say thank god stupid trailing ruined my planes again :( but at any rate ill keep looking around for a way ;)

I edited my post, you need 3 boxes to do the trailing also, and as you said, trying to synchronize that would be iffy.

~T.J.

EDIT: Here, buy this for $200 instead and put it to good use...

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-rx-7-1979-1985-parts-101/jspec-12a-t-distributor-909516/

ya i hear ya but then again trailing typically fires what 10* after leading.. maybe 15* so it could be possible but would require way more work then i originally thought...damn lol ill just go with a 6AL get my rev limiter in there and lock that dizzy at 10 for now and keep playing around with it maybe in the future come up with some that works lol....still that new 6al-2 programmable is fuckin sweet and id deffinatly use it on a turbo'd 4 cyl but i dont own one haha im gonna tell my buddy with his 4G63T about this box cuz i still wanna play with it

EDIT: ya i saw 2LA is selling that dizzy thats pretty awesome but im going to be boosting alot more than that thing could handle and after what? 7psi? it will be just like my n/a dizzy. ill figure out something tho

even 2 boxes would be $700 whereas you can buy a basic haltech rotary standalone for $900 http://cgi.ebay.ca/Haltech-Platinum-...item3a58223ffb

no brainer for me.

Ditch the trailing then!

If you are only running a 6AL on the leading, you will only have a rev limit on the leading ignition. Like Stu said, you could just eliminate the trailing.

It's the same basic technology that GM used in their 80s and 90s distributor-based ignition systems with electronic spark advance.

Seconded. Everything I've ever read said that the trailing was only for cleaning up excess fuel for emissions sake. We ran back-to-back dyno runs with and without and saw less than 1hp difference (well within the margin of error of the dyno itself).

Just put a set of plugs in the trailing but don't hook them to anything. Run your 6AL-2 for the leading. Problem solved.

Jon

Third.


I have run this way on a number of cars, the wide body and the Rx3.

You could still run the trailing stock, thru the cap, without a box if you wanted. Rev limiter will work when just on leading.

-billy

For that price you could buy/build a megasquirt :) and use it for spark only (might as well use it for fuel too!). You would have full control over everything ignition, and keep the trailing.

You can also try the set up I use on my 1ST gen and trust me this works very well for me even though I have not gone turbo yet. I also went with a 100 amp alt to help with the amount of draw the three 6al boxes use up.

I'm just using a locked dizzy and will continue to do so until I go EFI. I don't see much point in having such fine-grained ignition control when I'm using a freaking carburetor for fuel control.

I have made rev limiters out of adjustable shift lights and relays that can control as many coils as you would want to run. The way I make mine is using the shift light to trigger the relays and cut the ignition power to the coils. The best part is I have an adjustable rev limiter with a dial, that I can adjust on the fly from 3k to 12k. With brand new parts less than a $100. How well does it work? You decide

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4e_S3W0wZQ

Wondering when you were gonna post that!

Seen this in person, it works great!

You want to ground out the negative side of the coils when the relay is triggered rather than just pulling power, or it can lead to sparks at inopportune times. Otherwise, nice work.

You can also do it with any generic RPM switch instead of a shift light if you prefer.

hey sam thats a sweet idea i didnt even think of that, if you have time do u think you could quickly ddo up a diagram for me, basicly i just wanna know which relays you used, and which coils you cut the power to. thanks alot!

If you ground the negative side of the coil, it fires.

You can run just 2 boxes. One box directfire for leading, and the second box running off the igniter and through the distributor cap. I run 2 Crane HI-6R boxes. Ask Gavin how cool my rev-limiter is. :D

I installed one of these in a friend's 240sx, completely bypassed the ECU and went directly from the hall effect sensor->MSD->coil and used the box alone to make a map for the car. I managed to make it run better than it ever did with stock Nissan timing.

hey i think i got it figure out the wya i wanna do it..for the most part...so tell me if this is right.


run a trigger wire form the positive of the shift light bulb to relay pin 85, then ground relay pins 86 and 87, then connect the negative side of the coil to pin 30, and pin 87a(if applicable) would go to nothing....is that correct?

also i want to know, do i want this on both coils for just the leading??

thanks and p.s if im completley wrong just call me stupid and correct me

EDIT: or is it the negative wire for the trigger??