Well I went through all this just last night. James sent me this link and it’s like living the event all over again. I believe, since mine is so STOCK that the driver side mount is marked, as in my case, with a paint spot on each part to indicate driver side. Clearly it is important to have the offset of two different sizes. If not the engine and drivetrain sit too high. My fan was rubbing the radiator fan shroud. Not good, not correct. Im getting mine from Mazdatrix since they clearly show two different sizes. Fingers crossed!!

Paul,unlike all other 1st gens,the SE 13B mounts have a left and a right. One is clearly taller than the other-by design.
Best bet is Mazda oe mounts,another area on the car I never try to save money by using aftermarket parts. Stick with oe=no regrets.
Sorry about not getting back to you sooner,where I've been phone reception is lousy. Have to go outside to make,take texts and calls.

I should’ve prefaced these comments with “for gsl se 84-85 and automatic transmission only on FB’s only”. On an SE it’s apparent to me that in order to carry the driveline height correctly from the motor mounts back, you have to start with the correct height. Which means in my case, offset heights of each mount. I’ve seen the billet aluminum ones and that makes no sense to me unless for racing. Seems to me the purpose is to soften the hard torquing under extreme acceleration and minimize the vibration to the transmission hence the rubber vs aluminum or hard urethane. My 2 cents.

mike!! Glad to see you’re feeling well enough to post! Hope your gal is doing ok too. Hope her complications aren’t severe. OEM is always best especially in my case seeking to keep mine near stock for the purpose of preserving the time capsule it is. I misplaced my “journal” on all the things I’ve done to mine since 2014-15 winter and sat down and rewrote the whole thing from memory. Man what a money pit these 7’s can be. I love it. Every improvement makes me feel better. Lol! I’m going to check our dealer before I order from mazdatrix. Though from their website I’m pretty positive they have the right ones. I saw in another post about this that Tim tried using these wrong ones and it’s an obvious disaster. Throws the entire straight line of the drivetrain out of concentricity. Makes no sense to mess with Japan’s specs especially on this all important mounting. I think I have the correct tranny mount that came w these motor mounts and will try to keep it and send the test back. For all you guys thinking motor mount conversion think the oe is best and NOT a Hockey puck for sure.

For most street driving,replacing motor mounts with(oe Mazda) standard motor mounts is recommended. Would also replace trans mount as certain its compromised/separated by age/time.

If you like a vibration free quiet ride,avoid using Mazda comp mounts,Banzai,hockey puck,solid mounts in that order. Some don't care about extra vibes being transmitted into car if being used for track duty,street racing,etc...
Some 1st gens I've owned transmitted more noise/vibration than others with the same set of Mazda comp mounts but they do in combination with a Mazda comp tranny mount greatly reduce the "rubber bandy"" feel to clutch release/shifting the stock/worn mounts exhibit.

I like to take extended(sometimes intermittently spirited)drives with my car and extra vibes/noise don't lend anything positive to the experience. I had comp engine mounts in my SE for about 50 miles before I removed them and installed new Mazda oe mounts.
These and the Mazda comp transmission mount is a good combination/compromise for solid clutch/shifting feel without unwanted noise/vibes and what I would recommend.

For the times I drive more aggressively,I installed a torque brace(Racing Beat) which keeps engine in position by unloading engine movement into body of car. Pain in *** to install but can be adjusted so it allows minimal engine movement during aggressive driving but no additional noise/vibes to car giving same level of performance of comp,solid mounts without associated harshness.