'84 GSL SE steering column question
 

My steering column seems to be seperating inside somewhere, because I have a gap between the steering wheel and the cover the ignition switch is housed in ( about 1/2 inch and a bit more if I tug on the wheel.) The wheel itself is tight.Any suspects for a failed coupling somewhere in there before I rip into this thing? I have no prior RX7 experience, but am a mechanic.

Well, first of all, welcome to the RX-7 world, and the forum. Now, unfortunatly, I dont have an answer for you, but my 84 GSL does the same thing...I havent even looked into it yet because I am taking the engine out and putting it in a different car and using the 84 GSL as a parts car...I just thought that I would mention that my GSL does it too, just in case someone thought it was -SE's that only did it.

~T.J.

From the Net...
The steering column is actually a telescoping rod within the black column jacket that runs from the steering wheel to the box. The column is not much more than a half-inch thick, and it's designed to collapse in the event of an accident. The two plastic rivets that keep the telescoping column at its full length will not break easily, but a hammer blow could be enough to render useless your new $565 steering box and column.

In the event that you do break the collapsible shaft, I've heard of a few remedies. One is to remove the steering box and shaft, and then tack weld the column to the correct length. Another suggestion that I've heard was to drill a hole through the shaft where the plastic rivets are, and replace them with nylon screws. (Aftermarket license plate screws are often made of nylon or plastic.)

The best suggestion that I've heard came from Dave Barniger at KD Rotary, and it can be done with the column and steering gear in place: turn the steering wheel so that the wheels are straight ahead and position the wheel so that you have the desired clearance between the wheel and the plastic steering column covers. From the floorboard, measure 7.5" up the column, and then drill a 1/2" hole into the bottom of the steel column jacket. Then, through that hole, drill a quarter or eighth inch hole through the collapsible shaft. Install a quarter or eighth inch ALUMINUM pop rivet into the hole and you're done! The idea behind using an aluminum rivet is to retain the safety factor of the collapsible shaft. I should note that I've never done tried this repair, but it sure sounds like a great tip. Dave says he's done it probably twenty times, and it only takes 15 minutes or so.

c) Use suitable puller to remove the steering wheel.

Thanks for the replies! I assumed the column was collapsable ,but am very glad I know more of the specifics of the mechanism itself.Now when I take it apart I'll have a good idea of where the trouble is.If those rivets are damaged I probably will use the aluminum pop rivet method...

This car certainly is a learning experience.The previous owner had hacked off the two "fusible link" blocks next to the coils for his car,so I had to make up my own from scratch...fun fun, but I finally got it running today.after five years of storage it runs pretty damn sweet!

Thanks again,glad I found this forum.I'm sure I'll be sticking around for a while :)

KD Rotary
 

I had this repair done by Dave at KDR. I think he charged me $39. I'm very happy with it. When I was looking into the fix I found it described on the old email list archives I think or by asking on the email lists. I just couldn't figure out how to do it by the text descriptions. I need pictures.

Brad

*update*

I performed the "drill and rivet" repair to my steering column, and it worked like a charm! Thanks again.

...I would add that it helps a great deal to have someone in the passenger seat holding the wheel steady while drilling.

I'm definately bringing up a 4 year old thread here, but I think this will help me. Does anyone have pictures? I need more detail!

this is that POS that usually breaks when you force the steering wheel out!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/DSC05952.jpg

Time to resurrect this old thread. While I understand the 'concept' (by description) of the KDR repair procedure, I could also benefit from better text OR pictures. Maybe it's a 'CDN' thing but I've always used the word 'tube' instead of 'jacket' and the solid, inner part that connects gearbox to (steering) wheel would be the shaft.
Regardless of terminology, I still need confirmation as to the drilling and riveting. It states "drill a quarter or eighth-inch hole thru the collapsible shaft. Install a quarter or eighth-inch ALUMINUM pop-rivet into the hole and you're done". Uh huh. Just that easy. Okay, now how deep does the second drill bit go, how longshould the rivet be and how does this narrow rivet attach to the inside of the hole, assuming it does NOT pass thru anything. Logic would have it that the original plastic attaching piece (that is sheared-off) would have to be drilled-out and subsequently replaced (by aluminum rivet, nylon screw etc.) Anyone reading this that has done the repair lately (ie. since 2002) have any good info or pics to contribute - prior to me butchering my steering column 'tube'? Please and thank-you.

I have not done this but I am about to try myself and would love to see if there are any pics as well to the process.

My 84s steering wheel started to telescope (pull away from the dash) when in fact these cars don't have this feature. I ended up searching the forum and found this thread. Since there were no photos on the easy fix I decided to take some photos when I attempted it. It really only does take 15 minutes as long as you have the right tools.

Tools I used:
Measuring Tape
Sharpie
A Drill (mine was a wireless makita)
3/8" drill bit (I needed a 1/2" hole but it was all I had so I just bored it out with the 3/8" bit.)
A punch
1/8" Drill bit
A Rivit Gun (got mine with the rivet at harbor freight for 5 bucks)
1/8" Pop rivet
and some elbow grease

Here are the instructions listed above:

The best suggestion that I've heard came from Dave Barniger at KD Rotary, and it can be done with the column and steering gear in place: turn the steering wheel so that the wheels are straight ahead and position the wheel so that you have the desired clearance between the wheel and the plastic steering column covers. From the floorboard, measure 7.5" up the column, and then drill a 1/2" hole into the bottom of the steel column jacket. Then, through that hole, drill a quarter or eighth inch hole through the collapsible shaft. Install a quarter or eighth inch ALUMINUM pop rivet into the hole and you're done! The idea behind using an aluminum rivet is to retain the safety factor of the collapsible shaft. I should note that I've never done tried this repair, but it sure sounds like a great tip. Dave says he's done it probably twenty times, and it only takes 15 minutes or so.

First picture is the first hole through the "the steal column jacket" 7.5" up from the floor board and the second picture is of the second hole with the rivet in through the steering column. It takes a little to get through if your bit is not sharp.

The first hole just needs to be big enough to fit your rivet guns head in.

Quick, easy and fixes it like a charm!

Hope this helps.

Thank-you to the last couple posters. I did figure the outer hole would have to be large enough to accept the 'snout' of the rivet tool. But, still no confirmation as to "how thick are the inner metal parts (ie: hole no.2) so how long should the pop-rivet be? Wouldn't it be better (closer to perfect) to have this rivet pass right thru the second hole so it can be expanded to enhance it's strength and purpose? If it 'terminates' inside the small shaft hole, then the tool expands it to grab, wouldn't it be a 'fragile' fix - at best? Sorry for vague paranoia but - - just wondering. :scratch:

ALSO, since my own column 'failed' over a decade ago, and I am only driver, I got used to it by NOT pulling on steering wheel. But, when on a trip in 2012, I did something careless and stupid :blush:. I happened to tug too hard on wheel while turning a corner and then, before allowing wheel to go back to straight-ahead position, I pushed it back in - to the sound of an internal 'crunch'. Yes, you would be correct if you guessed that my signals no longer cancel as they were meant to. I have a feeling there is broken plastic inside. Perhaps I should spell it 'pla$tic'? :sad:
When I get the car back in a few weeks, from winter storage, I will investigate further. Anyone have this happen and can it be repaired - short of purchasing whole signal a$$embly? (now, where is that ICON for crying?)