80 won't idle after RB header install HELP
 

I removed the air pump and the air control valve. I blocked off the air inlet on the heat exchanger and the triangular hole from where the air control valve use to be.

I installed the gasket and header which is connected to the stock exhaust.

I taped closed the two smaller holes on the bottom of the stock air cleaner assembly (per the RB instructions)

Now I can't get my car to idle. I have been adjusting the air/fuel mixture since yesterday, no dice.

What can be causing this? What am I missing?

Is there more to the conversion process from thermal reactor to header?

Also. RB supplied 3 bolts with the header but I found no place for them to be used. I assumed they were for use with the block off plate that came with the header to cover the acv space. There are 3 holes in the block off plate. However, the acv was held on by 3 studs and nuts and not bolts. Again, am I missing something?

Please help, this car has been off the road for years and its time for it to roll.
See pics at link below. Will provide more upon request.

http://www.deal52.com/rx-7/rex_header.htm

I am willing to bet you are running into the same problem I did when I put the RB system on my 80. If you used the studs at the acv for mounting the blockoff plate, did you use a bunch of washers? When I first put mine on, I didn't use any and failed to get a good seal. After using gasket sealant on the outer edge of the plate, and about 3 washers per stud, I finally got it where it wasn't leaking. The studs are not threaded down far enough to hold the blockoff plate tight. Also, as I found out when I was going through the whole thing for the third time, the studs will screw out, so if you didn't do a fool thing and throw the screws you got into somewhere in never never land like I did mine, I would recommend that you use them.

Your car will not idle if the Blockoff plate is leaking bad enough.

Hope this helps,
James

Re: 80 won't idle after RB header install HELP
 

ok.. I have a request.. :p: More pics of those rims( I have the same kind:)).... and of the car in general:noyes:


:D... Laterz...

James I think you may have the answer. As you see from the pic I thought that also but I guess I don't have enough washers on there.
I think I will remove the studs and use the screws in a few minutes.
79+80 I'll also post some more pics

Thanks

More pics
 

You'll find more pics at the following link. I apologize for the haze on the left on the pics. I had some grease on the lens.

http://www.deal52.com/RX-7/Rex_pics.htm

I put the bolts on in place of the studs. Still can't get it to idle. What should I try next?

I even tried blocking the opening in back of the intake manifold (the one RB says can be left uncovered).

I didn't put any sealer on my ACV plate, just tapped it with a hammer. First time I started the engine it sucked the plate tight, hasn't let go yet. I didn't want to use sealer for fear it would get inside my engine. My home made plate leaked so loud I could hear it form inside the car. Are the rest of your emissions equipment intact? Without the AC&CV they may be getting a wide open signal, that would mess your idle. My advice...wait for peejay, he'll have the answer.

Still no luck? Have you checked to make sure that any and all unused vacuum line hookups are capped? Can you describe what happens exactly when you start the car. Are you using the choke? There has to be something we are missing here. Do you still have your rats nest (vacuum lines and solenoids on top of the engine)? Take some pics of all 4 sides of the carb/intake if you get a chance. You have adjusted the mixture and had no luck with that, right? Your car didn't have the CA emissions package, did it?

Anyway, if it isn't resolved yet, throw some more info at us and somebody will figure it out.

Later,
James

More pics added:
 

Ok, I have added more pictures to the link below.

Yes, I still have my rats nest (and from the conflicting posts on the subject I think I'll be keeping it)

It runs on first start with choked pulled. Of course, it is almost at 4000 rpm. Once, the engine warms and the choke pops back in, it sputters and dies.

No, it doesn't have CA emissions

Ok, mission control - what information can you guys provide now?

http://www.deal52.com/RX-7/Rex_header.htm

Sounds like the car has not been running in a while.
Did you have it running daily before changing the header?

Where abouts are you in Detroit?


Oh and...

Go Red Wings!

I would suggest removing the nest and blocking all vaccum nubs

Does the car run at all (at higher rpm) I would check fuel delivery and ignition and timing also

there are multipul posts on all of these topics but feel free to ask and we will help

It has been off the road for a while, but only because of the hole in the old head pipe which really hampered acceleration.

However, the engine ran and idled fine immediately prior to the install of the RB header. Therefore, I think the issue is likely that I am not blocking the correct number or combination of vacuum lines. The RB instructions are really weak.

So, I am hoping that someone can tell me which vacuum lines must be capped. I think I will be able to take it from there.

All vacuum lines or ports need to be plugged if they are no longer connected.

I would...

1. Screw in the idle speed adjusting screw several turns so the engine stays running.

2. Start and run the engine.

3. Listen around the intake area for any sucking sounds

4. Try plugging any ports or vacuum lines and listen for an increase in engine speed should you find one leaking

5. Follow any vacuum line back to its source on the intake - it could have a crack/split in it

6. Sometimes an air leak can be heard using a length of hose held at your ear and the other end moving around the intake area (like at the edges of the block off plates). An air leak is magnified and you will hear a distinctive hiss (like a stethoscope).

7. If listening for an air leak or plugging air lines does not help you can also use something like a small propane torch bottle and flow a little propane around suspected areas. The engine speed will increase when a leak is found. I think using carb cleaner also works

Hope this helps....we need another 1st gen on the road in Detroit.

Yesterday I started it with the choke pull and while it was running I turn the air and mixture screws all the way in (closed) and a no point did they effect the engine speed.

Question: If the internals of my heat exchanger or muffler are clogged could they be the problem? Although as I said before it did idle well with the original exhaust on. However, there was a hole in the headpipe that maybe (and I'm guessing here) alleviated the effect of any muffler or heat exchanger clog.

I'll try disconnecting behind the header.

Took of the muffler. Still no go. Surprisingly, the muffler is still usable although it is 20 years old. I've begun the rats nest removal. Hopefully, that will be done tomorrow. After that I will disconnect the heat exchanger. Stay tuned.

ok well,

i have a rb header and the rats nest removed and none of the problems you have,

see what im saying?

give me your home address and i will mapquest you ,

if your not more then a half hour drive i will come down and you can copy off my car to get yours running

V8klr I think I need to take you up on that offer. I will PM you.