Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

This is an old picture. Rats nest and ACV are gone. Cleaning up all the wiring while doing the S5 alternator swap.

I can't find in my book what this connector is for. It's a HEAVY green wire with black stripe, connected to a HEAVY black wire with light green stripe.

Each wire comes from the large connector under the brake booster, runs out by the carb, clicks in, and runs back.

This something I need? Can't seem to find it in the wiring diagram in the Haynes.

1982 GSL California Car.

Thanks!
-Paul

dmc83RX

I believe it is a connector that you disconnect while adjusting the throttle position sensor.

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

TPS is only good for emissions stuff correct? Since there's no computer controls in the carb?

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

Reading more in the book looks like the TPS is actually an idle switch.

Still can't find these two wires.

Of course this book shows charging system wiring as the early externally regulated alternator.

Sigh. lol




Found more. Found an '82 factory diagram.

It's connector B-09.

Looks like the BY wire goes from ignition switch START to the starter solenoid AND spliced to this connector where it changes to GB and goes to the ECU. Looks like this is gettin taken out!!!! :O)

I'd like to take out some of the water switches but I still use my choke so I guess I have to leave those in.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

#1 water temperature switch is in the back of the thermostat housing. It controls your choke magnet and the hot start assist system. #2 water temperature switch is in the bottom of the radiator on the left side. It sends a voltage signal to the ECU. Top of the radiator is the coolant level sensor. Under the oil filter is the temperature gauge sending unit. Large sender on the left side of oil pan is oil level sender. Small sender in the same place is sub zero start sender.

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

Rad sensors are hooked up, thermostat sensor is hooked up.

I de-pinned all the rats nest wiring besides those sensors on that loom. I don't have the single wire temp sensor on block hooked up because I clipped it off. Going to find another. Mine's only one copper wire thick!

Repaired some other bad wiring. Replaced the Positive battery lead.

I installed the S5 alternator with the Black/White terminal going to the dash lead and the other terminal to 12v. 8ga wire to the fuse box.

I wired in a truck fuse box instead of the links.

And I swapped another steering box.




Good new is the lights are brighter than ever, doesn't seem to have a bat drain at all, and the alternator works!. The bad news is...

Key on, only the Brake and one other light are on.

Try to crank it, and it seems like the switch is out of adjustment? Doesn't actually crank until backing the key back to the run position, just before the starter cranks.

Then when she's running... all the dummy lights are on. Add Coolant, Low Oil, Stop lamp, Battery light.

Did I miss a ground or something?

Twilightoptics

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=oscillator


According to this, not having the charge of the alt loses the key on side of the Choke and Check relay. Causing all the lights to go on.

I assume this is the wire that's no longer used in the S5 alternator?