Operator Error

iTrader: (1)

So I am having some issues getting my SE going.

So far I have...
-replaced the water temp sensor.
-replaced the slave and master clutch cylinder
-removed OMP w/ block off plate
-replaced the ECU
-removed the air pump and ACV
-installed complete RB exhaust with 6th port
-cleaned the upper and lower intake manifold.



I've installed everything but still it refuses to idle. One strange thing is when im cranking, the tachometer flickers a little but for the most part it just twitches at 0.

I will post a video of what the car is doing in a little while, probably tomorrow.

The car has sat for a couple years, it has 140k on the odometer. It had some gasoline in the tank when it sat and i did check the injectors to see if they were clogged but they seemed fine.

Why i replaced the ECU is because my buddy hooked up the battery wrong and basically fried my ECU. I then checked the codes and it said the water temp sensor was bad and so i replaced it. right after that it said my AFM was bad, so i replaced that and the code persisted so i replaced the ECU and the code went away. That brings me to now.

As I said I'll get that video up soon so you can see exactly what its doing.

acekid7

iTrader: (1)

Flooded maybe?

Operator Error

iTrader: (1)

Well I dont think its flooded... I tried unhooking the blue connector, cranking it for 15-20 seconds reconnecting and then trying to start. I did that 4 times. Then i took out the spark plugs and cranked it over for 15-20 seconds, unplugged the blue connector, put some ATF in the leading spark plug holes and still it wont turn over...

Anyone have any suggestions???

rx7lives

Q: is it running or just not idling?


I hope your buddy paid for the ECU he fried. I could have sworn that the ECU power had a diode in line with the B+ which means that connecting it backwards shouldn't have mattered as the diode flows only one direction. I'm wondering if other connections to the ecu fried it.

You do have the correct AFM? As the one for a 2nd gen won't work.

Did it fry the dist ignitors? Did you check all the available fuses and fuesable links?
Is it getting gas, air and spark?

1) Check for spark.
2) There a connector in the engine compartment the turns on the fuel pump with the ignition in the 'on' position. It's on the passenger's side of the engine compartment and only has two wires which, I believe are in a yellow female connector. I thing the green three point connector is for adjusting the throttle position sensor. You wouldn't need to mess with it now but you will once the car is up and running. Make sure you have the correct connector and connect the two wires in the connector and turn the ignition, on. You should hear fuel flowing.

What do the plugs look like? Are they went? When you put in the plugs you did use anti-seize, yes?

Please keep us updated.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

This is almost certainly an ignition problem.

If the tach isnt reading properly, you most likely have a burnt out or failing trailing igniter.
The trailing igniter is responsible for the tach as well as signaling the ECU to fire the injectors, so if its not functioning properly: no start!

Operator Error

iTrader: (1)

Rx7lives: Its not running or idling,

I do have the correcft AFM for my year. I also checked and cleaned all my fusible links and fuses and they look good.

I did try to check the spark on the trailing ones spark plug and i had no spark, I feel like an idiot for posting before checking this. I just assumed i had spark for some reason.

Anyone have an extra ignitor laying around that they would sell me???

Thanks rx7lives for the help.

Operator Error

iTrader: (1)

Gen1onr - that sounds exactly like my current problem and by the way the trailing ignitor is the one that sits right next to the distibutor correct? If there is another ignitor then i have no clue where it is...

rx7lives

Do you have trailing spark? If so, the engine should start unless it's flooded. If you have trailing spark, you could just swap the ignitors around and put the good one in the leading position.

These guys have the best prices for ignitors I've ever seen since I think they're around $400 From Mazda:
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/catalo...p-1-c-693.html

The used ones are $60 and the new ones are $185.

To find out which ignitor is which, the one with the blue colored cover for the + side of the coil is the trailing coil, it should also be closest to the front. Just follow the wire from the negative side of the trailing coil to the ignitor and that is your trailing ignitor leaving the other one as your leading one.

According to my manual, the yellow wire with the red stripe is the trailing one and the yellow wire with the green stripe is the leading one.

Have you check to see if you're getting fuel?

rx7lives

I just noticed that yoou said it ran but didn't idle, is that true or is it dead? If you crank the engine with a leading and trailing plug grounded so you can see if it fires, does either of the ignition system fire?

Someone previously mentioned that the trailing ignition does a lot of work besides firing the plugs and he's right. Now if you test each system and the leading plugs fire but not the trailing, after verifying the wiring on the trailing side (so you don't fry a good ignitor plus you might find the problem) you can put the leading ignitor in the trailing ignitor's spot. If the engine isn't flooded, it should fire and the tach should work.

It'll run crappy on only the trailing plugs but at least you'll know the problem. In a previous post I gave you a link to the cheapest ignitors I've seen besides from a pick and pull so if swapping ignitors solves your problem, then buy at least two ignitors as it always nice to have at least one spare.

Oh yeah, if you have a multimeter, check to see if you're getting 12 volts on the positive side of each coil when the ignition is in the on position. You can also use the ohmmeter part of the multimeter to check to ensure that all your fusible links are good as I've seen a few that looked good but were open. The should have less than one or two ohms on the lowest scale if they're good; it also helps to move them while testing them to see if you've got an intermittent.

che'srx-7

iTrader: (5)

i am having this problem with a gsl se that sat for 4 years, i just bought it. so far i drained the tank, refueled with good gas, the fuel pump is new, new plugs,. i have spark , i have fuel pressure but haven't checked if the injectors are spraying, is there a easy ways to do it or do i have to take out the intake mani for that?

Operator Error

iTrader: (1)

So i just replaced both ignitors and my tach is working normally! It still doesnt want to start up so im going to let the battery charge up a bit and then try unflooding it. I also tested all spark plugs for spark and am pleased to say that all of them have spark.

As for checking the fuel injector operation... you pretty much have to take the intake mani off most of the time. if your car sat for four years chances are that your injectors are gummed up and its not a bad idea to get them cleaned and flow tested.

rx7lives

I've had that problem and the way I get around it is to remove the 2nd fuse on the right side of the fuse box closest to the driver. Remove the fuse and crank the engine over several revolutions and while it's cranking, insert the fuse. It might fire and you might have to feather the throttle to keep it running but it always worked for me until I got an MSD and went with DLIDFIS:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=216618

Operator Error

iTrader: (1)

So the weirdest **** just happened. I changed both ignitors and the tach was reving up and down and seemed fine but when I charged the battery a little more the engine started reving alot faster and the tach stopped working......

Here is a video of what the car is doing now. Its a little dark and i apologize for that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYD28Vnl-rg

ArmyOfOne

iTrader: (12)

Anything new with this? I have one that is real hard to start and when it does it runs like it is half flooded. 95+ psi on a fresh rebuild, verified the injectors fire. Timing is correct and have spark at all 4 plugs. When it starts it idles very rough and revs real rough. Again as if it is partly flooded.

wahootee

iTrader: (50)

I bought the car from the OP. Its running now. OP had created multiple no start issues in his valiant attempts to put the car back on the road. In the end he ended up creating more issues than whatever the original isue was (most likely the carboned up apex seal causing low compression on the rear rotor).
I took the car back to square 1 including putting everything back stock. Undoing all of his mods. Car had numerous wiring issues to include splices that created several problems with the injection circuts, aftermarket stereo created underdash/lights/relay issues, flooded, carbon stuck apex seal on rear rotor, crossed plug wires w/incorrect plugs, incorrectly wired coils, minor stuff but it all added up and evidently caused him a lot of headaches. Car is running good now.