2500 rpm idle
 

OK, the only thing I have done to my car lately is change out the slave cylinder. As far as I can tell, this didn't start until after I did it...it was starting to idle higher in the morings when being warmed up, but it didnt start idling at 2k on a regualr basis until after the swap. Anyway, now it is up to 2.5k and I can't figure it out. I've played with the screws and nothing. I checked to make sure that nothing is bound - the choke and accel cables seem to be functioning normally. I have 16 inches of vacuum at said idle.

What was the vacuum before the high idle started? We both know the usual cause is a vacuum leak so I'm guessing you've checked that. What about the other 2 cables going to the carb, hot start and cruise? I'd check the butterflys to make sure they aren't sticking, along with the springs on the backside of the carb.

I've removed the hot start and cruise cables. I've cleaned the crap out off the carb to make sure that it isnt sticking at all as well as opened and closed them by hand to ensure proper operation. I dont know what the vacuum was before hand - last time i checked it, it was 15 lbs at 1500 rpms - that was the lowest idle I coud get it to stay alive at. I'm going to REcheck the vacuum plugs again...maybe I missed one...

update - I checked all of my vac hoses and all are holding vacuum - now my idle is 3500 rpms! in two days it has jumped from 2k idle to 3.5k...

hey man- check and make sure you're carb is bolted down securely- i had the same problem and that turned out to be the cause...particularly the two bolts that are hardest to get to. just a guess though....

I figured it out...the linkage is bent! The bolt with the hammer-ish shaped nut and spring was what tipped me off(as seen in bottom left)...it was stuck up in the bracket where various emissions parts sat...that brought me down to about 2200 rpms. The nut had almost come off.
So, I think what happened is there is this part of the linkage that hangs down on my carb and hits the block occasionally - it bound up and bent the linkage...so, I need to bend that arm straight and everything should be fine. I guess it was the cresent piece that the hot start or cruise cable hooked to

rawk. glad ya got it figured out...

Good catch. When one removes the extra cables, the connector arms need to be tied out of the way or removed.

I hope it helps someone else out too.

Also, my car started running really bad after I got it running again - I need to get my butterfly out of my manifold...the one used for smoothing out decel...it started closing on me today and causing me to run on one rotor. The screws are wallered out so it gunna be fun...geez, sometimes it jsut doesnt pay to "make a car more reliable" by cutting out everything that was put in for driver comfort :P

Just tie down the arm on the shutter/decel valve in the fully open position.

lol, I had the same issue when I first stripped the "junk" out of my engine bay. Glad you figured it out...