1985 GSL-SE fuel pump not priming, car not starting, NEED to MOVE ASAP
 

I have searched, and think I have an answer, but still am looking for some feedback.

I've been trying to get my GSL-SE up and running, and have run into a snag. I just replaced the starter, and installed a new battery as well, and the car is cranking fine.

I have not checked the AFM door to make sure it is opening freely.

The fuel pump is not priming when the key is in the ON position, or when the engine is cranking. I removed the shields surrounding the pump, and had someone lay under the car holding the pump to see if it were priming or providing fuel to the motor.

The pump is not working at all at this point in time.

Where is the fuel pump relay located, so that I can jump the relay and see if the pump is functioning at all?

OR, what else should I investigate? I want to try my options before replacing the fuel pump to find out my factory fuel pump is functioning.

Any IMAGES, or INFORMATION that can be provided is vastly appreciated!

Thank you!

Just searched some more, I'll check the flapper for the AFM tomorrow.

The starter was shot in the car, so I and a friend towed it to his house. We bump started it while he was towing it, and it started once, then died. Trying to bump start it after that yielded no result.

Also, can someone please point out where the relay near the AFM is to jump so I can bypass the intertia switch (fuel cut off, whatever you want to call it.)

The pump relay is next to the ECU, if I remember right. ECU is under passenger side footwell, below the carpet and the metal plate. Pretty easy to get to.

Two pin "T" plug with a black rubber shroud. Located near the rear of the air filter box. Jumper wire will bypass flapper door switch. If the relay and ECU are OK, pump will run when key is turned on.
The Circuit Opening Relay (fuel pump) is next to ECU under the panel in passenger foot well.

i thought 84-85 cars fuel pumps didn't work until you started the car.

Thanks for the information, when searching all I was finding was the location of the relay under the passenger side footwell.

I believe the below post is correct, that the pump does not operate until the car is cranking. When testing, I attempted to see if the pump was functioning with the key in the "ON" position, and ALSO when the car was cranking. (Nothing during either attempt.)

I will check the AFM door today, and then use the jumper connector near the ait box to bypass the relay to see if the pump is working. Hopefully it will, at lest long enough to get it to my home where I can put it up on stands and re-wire the pump, replace the filter, and re-construct some rusty fuel lines, correctly and nicely.

Thanks to ALL for all of the input and feedback!!

The jumper wire will not bypass the relay. The wire only bypasses the flapper door switch. Without the jumper in place the air sucked into the AFM causes the flapper door to open and it's switch activates the Circuit Opening Relay, sending power to the pump. Pump only runs if air is being sucked in when the engine is either cranking or running.

Checked the AFM and the door is operating correctly, without any problem opening or closing.

I jumped the T connector, and attempted to crank the car, and still nothing. The tach. is moving when the car is being cranked, so the trailing ignition should be operational.

We removed the air filter, and sprayed some starting fluid into it and it attempted to fire. Just one cough, then nothing.

The pump was not making any audible noise with the jumper in place with the key in the "ON" position, or during cranking.

I will be replacing the pump and filter tomorrow. The factory lines look pretty rusty, so I will have to take my time with them. I am going to re-wire the pump to the factoy wiring.

Any other suggestions, or input?

Going to attempt a repair tomorrow. I'm going to test the lines at the pump while cranking the motor to see if there is power to them. If there is, I will re-wire the new pump to the factory wiring.

If there is no power to the wiring, what else should I check for?

If there is no power to the wiring, my initial plan to just get the car home was to hardwire the pump to the batter with an inline 30 amp fuse, and a 50 amp toggle as well. While it may be ghetto, it will ensure the pump is getting power, and I can drive it.

I will be using an AIRTEX pump, and a FRAM filter, and replacing whatever fuel line, clamps, and injector hose, that needs replacing as well.

The only other thing I noticed is that the fuel gauge does not appear to be working. It is reading empty, and I know there is at least 3 gallons of fuel in the tank. Most likely a bad sending unit is my guess?

I want to note the car is recently inspected, and was running when parked in June. Anything else I should be checking for?

Cut the wires to the old pump, stripped them back, put the jumper in place, and tested the lines with the ignition "ON", 12 volts right now at the factory wiring. Old pump was shot.

I and a friend then proceeded to change the fuel pump outside in the street at night, in the cold. Not what I originally planned. We chose to not change the fuel filter at this time to avoid dealing with the cluster that is the hard lines on that thing.

Wired the new pump, shrink wrapped it up, put new fuel injection hose, and new clamps on, bolted it back in place, primed it a few times, and it fired right up.

The sending unit is indeed bad since we drank our share of about 10 gallons or more fuel while doing the swap. We did manage to flood it, and one of the fuel hoses needs tightened down a little more, but it is running, and will be able to be brought home now so I can go over everything and start making it safely streetable.

Thanks to everyone for the input, etc.!