Just to clear this up, you don't want to run steel braided lines all the way from the tank to the engine bay. You're going to want to run either aluminum or copperized steel hardline for the length under the car (from where the frame rails start to go up to make room for the rear axle and run it up to the firewall). In the rear where the frame rails start to go up you can mount your pump there. You'll want to use the soft line to connect the pump and filter to the tank, and up in the engine bay for your fpr and feed and return lines.

Also, I used braided steel for my fuel system on my 12a turbo and it is way overkill for the application (and expensive). If I were to do my system again I would just use something similar to Earl's Super Stock Hose (http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Su...49414/10002/-1) for the soft lines, as it's only about 2/3's the price of stainless braided.

Good luck...

just use fuel injection hose from the local parts store, it'll last forever.

Alright, I am already working on the funds for this project, i will buy a Racing beat intake and a holley 600 blowthrough carb. I will update this thread asap. Thank you all for your advice.

hey what do you have for an exhaust manifold? could you show me some pics of your set up and stuff im tryin to decide how to turbo my 12a
thanks

I will post a video of the car tonight, and some pics of the turbo set when i find the pics. I need a used blow through carb that will bolt up to the holley intake. any one selling ???

There's a leak of fuel on the fan side of the motor of the carb.

http://www.facebook.com/v/105982189431674

Here's the picture of the Exhaust manifold. http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._1903502_n.jpg

despite the leakage issues that set up is so damn cool, never seen a blow through nikki before (they're not so popular down here). looks like the air horn gasket is broken just above the float bowl there.

good luck with it mate

Manifold looks good

Update !!!!

She's Screaming down the Track !!! All i did was unplug the Dizzy's vacum and replace the two coils with blaster two COILS and finaly i Tapped into the Stock fuel return line into the Tank for the FPR with the Stock FI fuel pump. It is awesome...... now i want some goood wheels and R1 tires and i will be set :) any ideas for good wheels ?

I will post a video asap.

OH YEAH, AND I AM STILL RUNNING THE NIKKI CARB .....

Any tips you could give on boost prepping the nikki? or least someone to send it off too?

No intercooler, no blow off valve, carb not prepped right, no idea on boost levels, fuel pressure no boost referenced, no air fuel monitoring?? This is a time bomb, no offense man, but ...tick...tick....tick.....

Even with my camden my boost is monitored, fuel pressure monitored, have meth for chemical intercooling, distributor recurved, air fuel monitored, carb dialed in, etc etc...

Here is some reading for you http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ing_block.html

You do not need a bigger carb, you need the right carb. Guys like Bad83 did very well with the nikki, hell I would send it to him and pay the piper for the proper mods.

RB doesn't sell nikki carbs, much less boost prepped ones.

I couldn't find the email that i recieved from the guy i bought it from, but it seems like it was rotory shack I AM NOT SURE THOUGH. It is definately boost prepped because all the extra opening have been welded shut and i re-rubbered the intake to carb gasket area to make sure, i believe i set the FPR to around 3.0 not sure yet. I am looking at another RX7 with a third gen engine in it for around 4K's !!!! I will make sure i finish this project first.

I found this on EBAY, i don't know if it will fit to the stock intake i have.... ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33550 )

I do need a boost gauge and FPR Gauge ! where should i get those from. I am also looking around for a Intercooler BOV and manual boost controller.

I am re-routing the turbo's oil return line as well as the fuel return lines heavy duty lines.


The reason the carb was not holding the boost at first was because i used the old floats and upper carb parts in the boos prepped nikki i have, and then i realised that and changed them around again.

After looking at your video again I noticed that the float bowls would only leak air on deceleration after being boosted. You really do need a BOV, not only to reduce the stress on the carb when pressure builds up during boosted gear shifts, but also to prevent the idle circuit flooding when there is vacuum below the throttle plates and boost pressure above.

would this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...item2a060c1c63 be a good enough intercooler ?

NO, its real simple with cars you get what you pay for.

Alright, if you have can point me in the right direction for good boost gauge, and good intercooler it would be much helpful :)

Won't fit and way too much carb, besides the demon sucks on a rotary.

I have tried contacting (http://www.customcarbs.com) twice with no reply back to me !!! its not like i am not going to purchase their products !!! That's why i stuck to my Nikki carb.

I can rebuild, boost prep, and rejet the Nikki to handle upwards of 15psi. The problem at that point wouldn't be the carb, but the supporting mods needed. If you are not running a locked timing dizzy, you ARE going to grenade it.

How much would it be for you to do that?

I've seen a few people weld together two FC intercoolers and front mount it, if you want to get it done cheap. I'm welding two FD intercoolers together as I think the end result will be a better design than the FC coolers for the same price.

I would also like to know, hhow much would you charge for that and what kind of experience do you have, excuse my ignorance

rotary shack absolutely does boost prep nikki carbs. But yeah be sure it is boost prepped by them. If it is a boost prepped carb by rotary shack, don't worry about buying another carb. Rotary shack has made 540 whp on a boost prepped nikki for the drag car before they switched to fi.

CFM is not as important on a blowthrough carb, since the air is compresses as it goes through the venturis. You need the carb to meter the fuel correctly, and the nikki will do that just fine. CFM matters more if you have a drawthrough turbo or supercharged setup.

Finding a big cfm carb for your blowthrough setup will kill fuel mileage, low end torque and setting idle will be very tough.