13BT vs 12a total weight
 

Can anybody advise me the actual weight of a complete 13BT and a 12a with all accessories, I am assessing the power to weight disadvantages.

watch out asking these questions. your gonna get the know it alls

http://www.answers.com/topic/mazda-wankel-engine


I dunno if this helps...

Nice info but no engine weights. Hope I get info I asked for not a load of opinions and personal preferences.

Maybe Trochoid, Peejay, PaulFitz, 680RWHP or one of the knowledgible could help me out.

I think they have the weights on the rotary illustrated website. Just google rotary illustrated, and check it out. Its a great site.

the engine weights are:-

12A 312 lb
13B 336 lb
13BT 376 lb

However the 87 Na weighed 2625 lb as against the turbo at 2845lb, but they may have been measured in different kerb weights, wet or dry.

You da man Paul.

Fortunately; my wife is an Aussie and when I met her she drove a MGB-GT! The only ones I ever owned were the K3 and TB.

Where in Oz did she come from, I'm from Rowville, east of Melbourne.

Never owned an MG but did have and Austin Mini 850 once, as much fun as a 7, no power but just like a go kart.

I would have to say that they weigh so similiar that it wouldnt make much of a difference. I know you were considering a mean 12A setup, but for all around badass, you wont touch a properly done 13BT with a 12A all motor... Of course there will be a price difference. From what I have seen you have plenty room and tools for a turbo adventure. I say give those Porsches a real surprise when you pull bus lengths on them in your humble little FB :)

Yeah its looking that way 60lbs isnt too much against an easy 350hp.

Add 64 lbs, light mods on the TII and you are at 220-250 hp. What difference will a few lbs. make anyway. You will have better all around driveability and manners than any carbed NA 12A or 13B.

I reality, the weight addition will be more due to the addition of a fmoc, fmic and plumbing, the TII clutch, flywheel, tranny and driveshaft. Everyone gets concerned about weight, but once you start reaching these hp levels, traction, or lack of it, begins to play a major role, at least on launch.

I like the old MGB-GT's, friend of mine had a brand new one in high school. Couldn't keep trannys in it. I think one would be an ideal candidate for a rotary transplant.

Edit: And you posted your 350 hp goal while I was typing. Mine is only 300 for street tune, you're getting greedy.

Yeah, I'll probably stick to 300 so I dont run into rear end issues.

Just getting everything in order before I get into the engine, suspension should be done over the next couple of weeks, no more rubber bushings for me....:)

I agree.
I still havent weighed my car,but I know its gotta be pushing 2700-2800.
With the torque and power you can get so easily from a 13BT,a couple hundred lbs just doesnt make much difference.Add to that the bigger tires that are needed handle the grunt,suspension needed to handle the squat and the brakes needed to handle the speed,and by the time your done,although heavier the car can easily handle most everything you throw at it,and pretty much mop up any N/A 1st gen out there.
And youll still be lighter than a stock TII FC.....

How is a hard launch in a car that light with that much power? I was never concerned with losing weight when it came to doing a TII swap, I was more concerned about not having enough. At that power level I see all kinds of traction problems in our little FB's but I suppose if you drive right you wouldnt notice. I think you could throw a widebody on their and the car would still be light. Not that I want a widebody, but you can see what I am saying. I may be a little off base, but I just love the thought of dumping the clutch a 7K in a 13BT :) :) Of course God knows I wouldnt be able to afford, gas, insurance, AND tires......

Even with 9" rims and 245/50/15's on the widebody, the ass end kicks sideways hitting 2nd gear hard. With a 300 hp turbo, it should do the same thing in 3rd. I want 12" wide rims. Then I will probably need lots of new drivetrain parts.

With serious modifications and some ability and understanding you can tune a lot of the wheel spin out of the car and gain nothing but thrust, which is why my rear coilovers will have easy to change springs.

Well youll remember I have a serious little 12A and a mostly stock suspension/drivetrain :) So I kick it side ways ALL the time. I can get a mean ass launch if I really want to, but it could be so much better if I did some more fine tuning. But I do love the loss of traction, AND kicking it sideways :)

But I totally understand your goal, however I am not as serious a racer as you are. I am in it for some fun, and I dont need to blow everyones doors off, as nice as that would be :)

But then again, if I had the money and resources God know I would be doing it too :)

every 100lbs you take off the car is about about 10th of a sec. you can take off the time... with the right tires, sup. and weight distribution. you can get a very light car to hook up no problem. just my .2 cents

Cremorne Point on Sydney harbour overlooking the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. To avoid Melbourne city, I drove through Rowville several times when using Stud Road to get to Frankston for world sailimg championships.

Sorry thought you must be a MG enthusiast. The mini was a real go kart without the class of the 7, In my youth I had a S 1275 [1305] rally version, and a 1500cc rally cross. This had a Weber 45DCOE, and was bored, stroked and sleeved as the blocks were too porous when bored to their limit. A scary machine!

I agree, 64lb extra will have minimal impact. With my 110lb Wife as passenger, the 1/4 times are only .1-.2 seconds slower. My 12AT weighs about 48lb more than the 12A as it includes EFI, FMIC and FMOC but light flywheel. I get 172rwkw equal to 231rwhp, using the RX-8 calculations this is 280hp at the flywheel. Even at this lower power traction is a problem with 205 tires. I would love to go wider but they are unavailable in 14", and I don't want to go larger while keeping to stock 85 specs. Everything is a compromise!

A rotary in the GT would be ideal against the stock V8. While a light weight block, it's still heavy to get the weight distribution right. A TII would be perfect.

I think the 13BT is the way I'll go, I can do the flywheel thing at the install, then upgrade the intercooler, intake etc along the way, 300hp here we come.....

Stud Rd was my main access from the beach to Ringwood, it was my stomping ground. My red RX3 was often seen hammering on a poor unsuspecting Commodore or Falcon.

I used to race sail boats on Port Phillip Bay, midweek and weekend competition from Sandringham Marina. Small world....

hmmm i have a 12A....

anybody know what the bare block 12a weighs?

Small world! Will be visiting Aus in three weeks and hope to get a sail at Black Rock. My tow vehicle was a R34 which was a bit of a waste. There are still many hot 3s in Melbourne with some great tuners such as Rotorworx. A top RX-3 will now set you back aus $30-35,000.

Good luck with the 13BT transplant.