13B S5 Swap into GSLSE
 

Flame away i did search... I just lost compression in the rear rotor of my 84 GSLSE, i have a S5 Mazda reman sitting here in the shop. I would llike to swap all of the GSLSE intake ,injectors, wiring ,computer,basicly, run it as a gslse motor. what do i do about the egr??? the S5 intermediate iron has no opening for the egr, like the GSLE. Can i do it, and if so how?

if the s5 engine has no center port for the AIR PUMP AIR, then its not an s5.

an S5 has that port just like the gsl-se, and everything actually does swap over and work.

S4 the air pump air goes thru the front and rear irons, so everything still bolts up, but the air pump air gets blocked off, and it will never pass smog.

i had a gsl-se with an s4 block in it. the FC ports are a little bigger, so will make more power.

I think maybe i use the wrong teminology. but you did answer my question. Thanks.

I did find my old SE intermediate housing and it IS almost the same as the S5, execpt for the bottom where the motor mount holes are.

I was thinking it was like the S4 intermediate housing i have pictured with the large hole for the EGR valve?

Anyway the first picture is a known S5 block out of an 89, the second is my S5 reman. and the third is a S4 intemediate housing with the large hole i was refering to as where the egr valve goes. I can't find my FC manual so i can't verify it.

yes thats right the s4 na's have the egr on top like that. the gsl-se and the s5's do not have egr at all.

if you want to keep the air pump you need to run the gsl-se water pump, the fc water pump/air pump bracket moves the air pump out further, and its hard to get to fit.

you'll also want to replace the front cover, oil pan, and waterpump housing with the SE's.

Careful, make sure you follow directions on the front cover swap...

wtf:scratch: what directions?? just take off the s5 front cover and water pump and put on the SE front cover waterpump and pan.

I already have a centerforce light weight flywheel and just ordered a Racing Beat street strip disk and pressure plate. should be a real screamer with the RB streetport exaust i already have on it.

Ah, i have read that before and forgotten the procedure. THANKS Doc! If i have it on the engine stand facing up am i good ,or are they saying it has to be on the floor sitting on the flywheel with the stess off the torrington bearing?

yeah thats what i had, basically.

Put it on the engine stand so you can check for end play in the e-shaft, or float as it's called in the link. Hopefully you have the correct spacer in the SE engine.

I have another SE engine apart ,so i will have two to choose from.and i have the correct tools to do a end float check so i shouuld be good to go.

Thanks everyone for the help! I will come back with pics when i have it in.

also, as a note, i would install the front cover, counterweight, thrust washer, and bearing plate with the engine sitting on the flywheel. remember to use the SE flywheel

Did you read the whole thread? This is a S5 High compression motor with Light weight rotors. I cannot run a SE Flywheel or SE counterweights. I am not removing the S5 timinng chain at all, just replacing the S5 front cover with the SE cover, and the S5 oil pan and pickup with the SE pan and pickup so i can mount it in the SE chassis. I have a centerforce light weight flywheel for a S4-S5 motor and i have a S5 automatic counterweight to use with it. I do agree with your advice to have the motor setting on the flywheel when removing the front cover and pully. thanks.

yes i read the thread. i misspelled the S5 flywheel part with SE. thats what happens whe you've had 8 hours sleep in the last 48 hours, lol. i wasnt sure if you were replacingth etiming chain or not. either way best to have the engine sitting on the flywheel.

It's not a timing chain guys, it's the oil pump drive chain. :-)