12a to13b lots of questions?
Hey there,
I have a 1984 rx7 its got the 12a engine in it. I wanna do a 13b turbo swap engine http://sunrisejdmmotors.com/engine_d...p?id=67&page=1 i know i gotta find out compression i know i have to change the front mount to make it easy is this the correct mount http://www.mazdatrix.com/mounts.htm look at the bottom of the page i think its telling me that i need a front mount plate on the 13b anyone know where i can get one Im hopeing that i have to do little to none, welding and or cutting is it possible with this front mount? im not planning on doing this until jan of 09, but figured i would do my research i dont wanna get the engine and be like crap i need what so what else should i be looking into? I Know im gonna get a 13b that has good compressin ecu and full wireing harness with the turbo trans. whats the diffrence between a cosmo engine and a lets say the engine i posted in the link above? its my first ever rotary car and i want it to run nice and look good as well. Its gotta be fast so if there is a diffrent engine that would be just as easy to swap what would u suggest. has to be rotary! Also i would like to get flush headlights i found something on the fourms but then i cant find it agian lol my buddy was telling me there was probly a way around all the wireing and stuff. dont remember exactly what he said but it something along the lines of of plugging something into the wireing harness that will convert it to the first gen i dunno i will have more info on this tomarrow |
lets start with the basics.... you will need the following:
- swap the front cover and oil pan to a GSL-SE front cover and oil pan. this enables you to use the stock engine bracket and mount. - you will need to use the SE fuel tank as well. it has beffles, you will need them to prevent fuel starvation. it also has the larger fuel line on the pickup tube - you will need the TII trans. you wil have to swap over the tailshaft from an FB trans though in order to make the trans fit in the stock location you will need the ECU and wiring harness from the turbo engine. or use a megasquirt or equivelant |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...mZ230302552111
would something like the above link be ideal for this? as far as the engine and trans is there a diffrence between rwd and T11 here is the oil pan http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-1...QQcmdZViewItem as well i was wondering as far as the front cover pan goes i will need to check some wrecking yards maybe i will get lucky i dunno cant find a fuel tank either lol hey man thanks for all the great info hopeing to do this all with about 2000 dollars i got the car for free might beable to sell the 12a for fairly cheap get some more spending money lol i love this site whats an fb ? do i have a fb? |
yes you have an FB (79-85)
FC (86-92) FD (not many can afford) lol Also do you have an LSD? |
Research, research, research. that is your 'ticket to ride'.
1. Don't listen to 'buddy's' unless they are rotary fluent. 2. 2K probably won't get the job done. 3. JDM rotaries can be hit or miss. 4. While the S5's have more oem stock hp, the S4's are usually easier/cheaper to install and can produce the same hp given similar mods. 5. Warranty or not, I'd rebuild and start fresh. 6. Read the fine print. By the time most do, it's too late!!! Read the FB, FC F me to learn the different series designations. The following is my sig line since you can't see them yet. Download YOUR copy of the FSM Then read it. http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html I won't tell you again. Attention: newbies. READ THE FAQs, OR Upgrade your beehive oil cooler here. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/cooling-oil-how-install-fc-oil-cooler-1st-gen-write-up-pics-478521/ My toy. https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/unvieling-12a-bp-widebody-462184/ |
Just go blow-through no wiring.. no hassle.. :D
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whats that mean?
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That is why I sent you a pm to do research on these type of things. Attempting a turbo swap requires a lot of reading and research on your part before you put out money for it. :)
Please do some more reading on this subject. There are many threads on this subject that members have spent a lot of time so that you can better understand what you are getting into. Thank you, Doc.
Originally Posted by Mazdanewb
(Post 8682498)
whats that mean?
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k i hav been doing some research for like three hours lol just like every night :)
lsd no i dont have that just looked it up that is pretty spendy part gonna read into it more.. i think im gonna get a stage 3 or 4 clutch for the tranny so would i still need the LSD sweet i have just ordered my gsl-se 13b front cover and oil pan :) kinda exspensive 125 bucks but guess thats not to bad and it came with the oil pan and the pick up tube |
LSD and clutch is two totally different thing, you need to learn more about cars first...
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Originally Posted by Mazdanewb
(Post 8683118)
k i hav been doing some research for like three hours lol just like every night :)
lsd no i dont have that just looked it up that is pretty spendy part gonna read into it more.. i think im gonna get a stage 3 or 4 clutch for the tranny so would i still need the LSD sweet i have just ordered my gsl-se 13b front cover and oil pan :) kinda exspensive 125 bucks but guess thats not to bad and it came with the oil pan and the pick up tube Scott. |
I agree with what they said above, you really need to do some serious research and a few simpler projects to get used to working on these things... I didn't attempt my 13bt swap until I had done years worth of other smaller projects first. One word of caution about the engine you have linked us to, its a 89-91 engine which is not going to simply "plug and play" if you plan on keeping the stock FI system....
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What's a "stage 3 or 4" clutch, anyway? I'm guessing "stage 1" is like a full-face unsprung disc, making "stage 2" a sprung 6-puck or something? I'm not up on my "tuner-speak."
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the 12a motor you have now runs? if so just turbo it you will have way less money in it and around the same HP or more...
if your motor is not running then take it apart and rebuild it and then turbo it. there are lots of 12a's on the forum that are making more hp then you will ever need.. there is no point in installing a 13b if you have a 12a to start with and dont want some crazy hp number |
Originally Posted by PercentSevenC
(Post 8684026)
What's a "stage 3 or 4" clutch, anyway?
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Originally Posted by PercentSevenC
(Post 8684026)
What's a "stage 3 or 4" clutch, anyway? I'm guessing "stage 1" is like a full-face unsprung disc, making "stage 2" a sprung 6-puck or something? I'm not up on my "tuner-speak."
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The 12a doesnt run.. and it has alot of miles on it yeah i coud rebuild it for cheaper but in all honesty when i would be done getting the manfold the turbo all the other things that i would need it would end up costing about the same so i figured i would up grade the engine.
And guys i know i still have alot of research to do. and this isnt a small project but i honestly dont think that it is out of my reach thats why im trying to find all the short cuts into this people that have done the swap know what they could of done better i have looked threw 1oos of post i wish there was one that was sticky that exsplained the best way to do the whole swap lol wishful thinking so for now im learning the short cuts yeah im sure in jan of 09 i will have all the info i need lol i have copy and paste alot of good useful info to my computer so when it comes crunch time i will be ready. i work with cars everyday i have worked on many cars just never a rotery engine and i have never done a swap before so its either i go big or i just say screw it and sell the shell might be a idea buy one that is already set up bu honestly i like the thought of putting the engine in my self it would be a learning exspearance and i would know alot just by doing this and if u said limited slip lol i would of known exactly what u were talking about.. |
why is the 12a not runnning right now? to tell you the truth you can turbo a 12a for pretty cheep you just get manifold and turbo off a 13bt and make a plate to get it to goto the 12a then run some oil lines and up grade the fuel system and there you go way cheeper.. the 12a you hav not could just be carbon locked 100 gasket kit from atkins and a good cleaning and there you go
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Originally Posted by Mazdanewb
(Post 8684876)
The 12a doesnt run.. and it has alot of miles on it yeah i coud rebuild it for cheaper but in all honesty when i would be done getting the manfold the turbo all the other things that i would need it would end up costing about the same so i figured i would up grade the engine.
And guys i know i still have alot of research to do. and this isnt a small project but i honestly dont think that it is out of my reach thats why im trying to find all the short cuts into this people that have done the swap know what they could of done better i have looked threw 1oos of post i wish there was one that was sticky that exsplained the best way to do the whole swap lol wishful thinking so for now im learning the short cuts yeah im sure in jan of 09 i will have all the info i need lol i have copy and paste alot of good useful info to my computer so when it comes crunch time i will be ready. i work with cars everyday i have worked on many cars just never a rotery engine and i have never done a swap before so its either i go big or i just say screw it and sell the shell might be a idea buy one that is already set up bu honestly i like the thought of putting the engine in my self it would be a learning exspearance and i would know alot just by doing this and if u said limited slip lol i would of known exactly what u were talking about.. If I recall arnt 12a's known to handle boost better too? |
I have done some reading and no they dont hold the boost better cant say that is is worse either but im honestly just gonna stick threw with a good 13b engine and ecu and Tll tranny if i have to rebuild the engine i will have someone do it for me but i would hope when i get an engine picked out it will have good compression and already be good to go i got the front plate and oil pan from the gsl-se already and i gotta order the other mount from one of the links i posted above and i think thats all i need to drop the engine in the hard thin is gonna be going to be getting the gastank and fuel pump.
Also was thinking about just getting the 12a running and sale it for like 800 bucks or something and maybe put my money together and just buy one that already has the 13b in it but have not looked to far into that idea besides doing stuff like this ur self you learn more |
My first suggestion is to work on improving your grasp of the English language. Your posts are very hard to read and understand. Seems like many new 1st gener's want to jump into the TII swap, yet very few manage to accomplish it. No one has written a start to finish 'How To" book yet on what all it takes to do a TII swap into a 1st gen body, which would be a great help to many if someone would take the time.
While the SE fuel tank is desirable, it's not mandatory. The sump cup in the SE tank is only about 1/5 the size, by volume, of the FC tank sump, Turbo or NA. Any S3 fuel tank can be modded to take the FC in tank pump and sump cup. S4 tank parts fit better than the S5 ones. Another fueling option is installing a surge tank, but that requires 2 fuel pumps. A low pressure pump to pull fuel from the tank and a high pressure pump to supply the injectors. Also needed from the SE are the larger fuel supply/return lines. These are the largest lines of any FI 13b. 3/8" aluminum lines can be substituted for the SE lines. Second suggestion, even though the S5 TII is more desirable, 20 more hp than the S4, mounting the E-MOP is more trouble than it it's worth, imho, when compared to the S4 TII. This leads to the 3rd suggestion, go with a full standalone ecu since the the S4,5&6 ecus are 'dumb' ecus and aren't conducive to turbo, injector or boost upgrades. There are enough rotaries now running MegaSquirt ecus in both Turbo an NA applications that decent maps aren't that hard to find. This also allows one to run new wiring instead of having to rely on old worn, brittle wiring and connectors that can be a pita to trouble shoot if there's a fault in the OEM harness. As for off the top of my head success stories, Steve84gs has a 300 hp S5 that meets CARB, dj55b is running Tweak-It throttle bodies on his NA with MS and Aaron Cake runs a turboed 2nd gen 6-port with MS. Keep reading, keep searching, you'll get there eventually. |
Hey Scott don't forget me ;) My S5 T2 swap passed NJ smog with flying colors! :D I agree with you though, if I were to do it on a relatively stock body I would probably go with a S4 setup as well to avoid the OMP headaches...
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The things you find searching your own name. :)
Originally Posted by trochoid
(Post 8687569)
As for off the top of my head success stories, Steve84gs has a 300 hp S5 that meets CARB, dj55b is running Tweak-It throttle bodies on his NA with MS and Aaron Cake runs a turboed 2nd gen 6-port with MS.
Keep reading, keep searching, you'll get there eventually. I did just recently finish installing and tuning an MS1 V.3.0 on a friend's '87 TII and we had no Megasquirt related issues. The car drives brilliantly and he is running around 12 PSI (stock turbo) on 87 octane with no issues. |
sorry, what do you guys mean when you say you need to replace the front cover?
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just to correct things, I actually run the Fuji racing ITB, and not the tweak it.
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