12A Timing at 24° Advanced?
 

I was reading this tidbit that 702roadrunner reposted from Yaw Power..

https://web.archive.org/web/20051216...r/pultime.html

For a NA 12A it describes setting the timing advanced at 24° for leading at 4K RPM, then adjusting trailing to 16°, referring to a special marks you put on your pulley.

I assume in this method you do not disconnect/plug the vacuum advance lines, the theory being that you want an absolute max advance of 24° and the idle timing is whatever it happens to be after the adjustment.

Do you have opinions on that for a daily driver? I am using TFIDFIS and have kept the trailing. Does that cause further complications?

Thanks!

Tom

I have mine set like that at about 26 deg. Idle is a bit lumpy but it screams otherwise.

Ha! I was reading 702roadrunner's Nikki Tuning thread just now and you had already answered my identical question and I didn't realize it! Somewhere in the forum posting rules it says to search, amirite? Anyway, thanks for taking the time to answer again.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-gene.../#post12110438

And I swear I read that thread before but it did not stick.

Anyway the weather cleared today and I was able to go for a proper highway run for the first time since the TFIDFIS upgrade. Holy crap, it is sooo much smoother and driveable than before. Stock Nikki too. $75 in parts and a really fun time getting a better understanding of these rotary things.

Now you need to hog that nikki, increase the fuel flow, advance the timing some,
and add a RB SP exhaust package. Vroom vroom!

That's where I come in. Be sure to do a lot of searches on my posts pertaining to Nikki hogging and boost prepping. You can ignore some of the boost prepping but it still remains compatible with NA. Every Nikki I prep is hogged out and boost prepped, whether used with boost only or NA only. There is no difference in the way I prep them.

As for timing, I set mine to 0 and let the stock mechanical advance do the job. I prefer the better idle quality at 0 degrees. But I might play with advancing slightly on my NA setups coming up.

I've been enjoying the completely reversible aspect of the things I've done so far, in the (perhaps misguided) notion that keeping it as stock retains more of the value. I do look at all of those threads though.

I might get pushed into more mods, the air pump is pretty squeaky these days. While I'm in no hurry to ditch the rat's nest or other emissions bits, it would be less than gratifying to spend money putting in a new air pump when it could go toward some new shocks and bushings.


If there's just one thing I've learned from all of your posts it's this: keep your OEM needles and seats. OK, two things, don't screw up the floats either. Your threads are awesome resources and I learned a ton from your DFIS posts too. Maybe on the 100th read or so I'll get it. But gawd, I look at the carb and think of all of the subtle ways I could completely screw it up.

I have to ask, how is it that you modify so many carbureted RX7's? Do you have a lot of these or is Seattle crawling with 35 year old works of art?

I helped a friend close a shop in 2009, which left me a lot of good usable parts. :)