12a swap w/what other rotary?
 

I recently purchased a 1980 rx7 LS, not running. I'm not that deep into it yet to say if I need to rebuild/replace the engine. Still troubleshooting.

If I rebuild, my only concern is shipping my engine off, and them telling me its shot. Is it worth doing a complete visual inspection/pictures "first hand" then shipping?

If need be, what other of Mazda rotaries are available, and straight forward swaps? I would like to salvage my 5 spd. transmission, which by the way, any info on what transmission I have?

Thanks for your patience!

beej

Most rebuilders that I've read about say the core engine needs to be unopened. As an example, Atkins will sell you a 1979/1980 rebuilt engine for $2700 based on their website price and a core charge of $350 but the core must be unopened. I'm sure other builders do it different. From experience and talking with other people, it can take 4 core engine (or more) just to find usable housings.

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=9

Try rebuilding it yourself. I just did my first one with the help of Trochoid (Scott) and it's not that hard.

congrats on the purchase of a SUPER rare SA! is your LS aurora white, solor gold, or brilliant black? there were only 2500 LS's produced in 1980! hope this turns into a restoration and not a butchering as so many have gone the way of the butcher.

what you should first do is run a compression test. this will determine if the engine is even capable of being started. we can troubleshoot from there. post some pics when you get a chance! i also have an 80 LS. its solar gold and has 61k original miles. the original a/c still works and it runs like new!

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...7/DSC08122.jpg

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...7/DSC08097.jpg

Sorry to hijack but that SA of yours is beautiful-although I am a bit biased when it comes to the colour albeit a slightly different shade. :)

Anyway Beejerx7-good luck, once you've got her running you won't look back.

Dave, your SA is beautiful! It gives me great hope, that mine too can look that good.

I'm not sure what the original color was, or why they painted it torquoise :scratch: They did a great job painting it, but lost all the trim in the process. Only had the car a few days, and still learning much about it. I will have many more ?'s

I will have the compression test done by the weekend, what's an average to good PSI I should be looking for?

Below are some pics, if I can get them attached to here:

beej

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33518

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33519

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33516

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33517

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33525

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33523

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33524

https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=33520

Thanks Captain, I long await the day!

ok, here's what you do.. raise the hood and look for the vin plate on the right side of the firewall. there will be a color code stamped in it. it will be one of three colors:

M4- solar gold
PZ- brilliant black
WN- aurora white.

regardless of color, the LS also has factory painted solar gold waffle wheels.

as far as compression is concerned, you should not see anything below 85psi per rotor. a piston engine compression tester will work and it will give you the highest reading per rotor. you can also hold the pressure release plug when cranking and watch the needle bounce. you should see three even bounces as the rotor makes one full revolution.

i pulled apart 6 engines one summer and only got 1 good housing out of them all.
If you can get your hands on a bore scope you can insert it into the exhaust and spark plug hole to see the housings and tell if they are good or not.
as for the swap idea it all depends on your budget you can go to the bigger 13b or even a 20b but be ready for major money as you go bigger.
I have never had good luck with a JDM rotary engine. if you have time on your hands find a used 12a for super cheap and tear it apart learn about how it goes together and apart, use it as a test engine and learn how to rebuild it.
If your feeling really adventurous you could get a 13b and rebuild it if you cant find good used housings you can buy new ones. Its not a great deal cheaper to do it yourself but you can port your housings and choose what you want for seals and other stuff.

I would look into a carburated 13b with a street port you would not have much issue with doing this.
get the GSL-SE oil pan and your 12a front cover.
get a holley intake or a rx3 13b intake
get a 13b distributer or stand alone ignition system.
rebuild or buy a 13b streetport.
Install and enjoy, ok well maybe there is more to it but if you take your time to learn, research find deals and build up a cash supply you can do a lot of stuff.
Good luck and welcome!

Get ahold of Glen or Tom at Arizona Rotary Rockets (AZRR) in Phoenix. They can help guide you in the right direction, and they're local.

Thank you for the info, I'll have to swing by there. I was wondering if we had a rotary shop in PHX. I know of Turblown in Peoria, but I just want to get it running, not race it.

beej

Dave, I haven't got around to checking the compression yet, waiting on a buddy with the tester. You would have 3 even bounces because there's 3 combustions per one revolution of the rotor correct? Is the number that it spikes to 3x my compression for that rotor?

I did find out that my car was originally brilliant black on black leather, thanks again for the info!

beej

your car should've had brown leather originally. all LS models had brown interiors.

and as far as the compression test goes, you will have three bounces (if the apex and side seals are good) because the rotor does have three combustion chambers and they will cause the needle to spike three times per complete revolution.

azrr
 

LOL! GOOD LUCK WITH THAT! THEY MIGHT BUILD GOOD MOTORS BUT IT ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET A HOLD OF EITHER ONE OF THEM, TOOK ME 1YEAR TO GET MY MOTOR BACK FROM THEM! AND IT BLOW A COOLANT SEAL 5XXX MILES LATER, AND HERE I AM WAITING ONCE AGAIN TO GET MY MOTOR BACK FROM THEM..... 4 MONTHS LATER....STILL NO ENGINE!:wtf1:

Ive seen that car on craigslist, twice now. the first owner wanted like 2800 for it. it took for ever to sell sorry to see that it wont start. Ive actually owned 3 first gen rx7 and they all ran longer then my 13b.
If you need a hand i have a compression tester and live locally.

I was assuming it was a LS, because it has all black leather, seats, roof, door panels, etc. and has a sunroof. What model do I have? Most of the emblems were removed when re-painted.

What's it worth?
 

I would sell this car, to someone who knows more about it, and could appreciate it more. What is the value of my car as is?

91K original box A miles, 12A rotary engine currently not running, complete, clean title, mostly all original aside from paint. exterior very clean for the age, straight, no rust anywhere (surface rust if any) interior has seen better days, but not awful. Some pics are available above, (the torquoise rx7)

I bought this car on a whim, because I know they're pretty hard to find. It's easy to fall in love with, but I'm more business than pleasure, so make me an offer!

beej

the only SA ever to have true leather seats was the LS and they were all brown. the build date should be slightly before or after May of 1980 as the LS was introduced on May 28th 1980. also from the looks of it your car has manual mirrors and all LS models had power mirrors and a power antenna activated by a switch below the cassette player. interior shots would be a bonus and would help us determine if its an interior swapped LS. i also believe all LS models had a vin of SA22C-600*** and up.