12a with beehive oil capacity ?
 

I changed my oil 2 days ago and I added 4 qts of 10w40 Castrol gtx . I have a 12a with a beehive . How many qts of oil does the 12a with a beehive hold ? I was told anywhere from 3.7 to 5 qts I guess some people that use 5qts have the 12a with the fmoc . Thanks I added exactly 4 qts of oil . Did I add the correct amount ?

go by where it shows on the dipstick.

If you change the filter its ~5 quarts. As Michael said, just add until full on the dipstick, no different than any other car.

The beehive really doesn't hold oil because of it's design. I think the FSM says 4.5 quarts. I always go with that then then add based on dipstick reading.

Agreed. It has some chambers but they don't hold very much.

I always add 3 1/2 quarts when doing the oil change. Then top off checking the dipstick. If you let the oil filter drain properly by punching a hole in the top, it shouldn't affect oil capacity. You don't want to over fill because it can blow seals.

Be sure to guard against drip down the beehive by placing rags around the filter as you unscrew it. If you don't eventually the oil will dissolve the coolant hose underneath it. The OEM one blew in 1996, or when it was 13 years old. Its replacement is 23 years old now because I wasn't like the jackasses at Jiffy Lube and had to do everything quick and messy.

I tried the 5 quarts on my first oil and filter and quickly discovered it was over the top of the full line, so now I just do 4 quarts, run for a few minutes, let sit for a while and add more.

I've heard that overfilling these cars is not good, more so than a piston engine, but that's just hearsay. I'm sure those with more knowledge will correct me if that's wrong. I've always been a believer that a little low is better than too much!

i would be more worried about cooling your oil which is critical... that beehive thing is useless.... overfilling will not hurt anything ... my car has 105psi oil pressure just cruising around... yes its a 12a

I quickly add 4, check, then usually about 1/4-1/2 more. Leaves me with enough to top off after a few tanks of gas.

My '85 Owner's Manual says 4.9 Qts
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ba94987398.jpg

And the Haynes manual agrees for '83-'85 models...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...97b9fb1dbc.jpg

And a 5qt jug brings my oil to the top of the measurement flat....
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b7304a1d58.jpg
Note there is no oil on the round stick - it stops at the top of the flat. I assume this "slightly high" reading is to have some extra to burn in the combustion chambers. I have zero consumption since switching to pre-mix, so I think I'll try 4.5Qt on my next oil change.

Also, Haynes lists 5.5 Qts for '79 - '82 RX7s. But I don't have an early Owner's Manual to confirm.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...986047bfb4.jpg

Both those values are total capacity, but often times it doesn't all come out when you drain. With some left in there (especially older models with oil cooler) you are over filling. I fill to top of meshy part of dip stick.

For the models with front mount oil coolers, 5.5 is right if completely dry but theres always .5 qt trapped in the cooler at any given time. So use the dipstick and fill to the top of the mesh.

Man, who knew an oil change could bring about such controversy and so many questions?

Having done thousands of oil changes over a 2 year stint at a busy Valvoline and tons of oil changes at home, I treat the dipstick as king. Keep filling till it reads full. Once it does, start the engine and let it run for a few seconds to build oil pressure. Shut it back down, recheck dipstick. If it's low, add oil - if it's good, leave it alone - if it's over full, drain some out (almost never happens).

Best of luck with it, that 12a will last forever if you treat it right!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...02f8a395da.png
Don't 12As have 80psi bypass valves?

If the beehive is useless why did they put it there after previously running a front mount? The Toyo Kogyo engineers determined it was adequate but what do they know right?

The beehive is not useless. it is designed to keep the oil at the same temp as the coolant. It helps warm the oil when it's cold started and cools it via engine coolant while running. True, it doesn't shed heat as well as the front-mounted air-to-oil type, but it's not meant to. it's meant to maintain a steady, and acceptable oil temp. Turbo Subies use a similar beehive as a trans cooler.

i use a modify 3gen ..... maybe fine for stock... they probably trying to save money.... get a oil temp gauge and switch u will see the difference

keeping it is a downgrade..... are u trying to compare subaru heat to rotary heat .. apples and oranges lol... anyone seeing this do yourself a favor and upgrade to a front mount oil cooler

found a use for it
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...03fa788ef1.jpg:bigthumb:

For a normally driven stock street car,beehive cooler is more than adequate. Hp adders,turbo,track days,FMOC is recommended.

Because the bean counters forced them to drop the expensive FMOC. Note that it came back for 84-85 and the beehive was never seen again. The rotary gets more than 50% of its cooling via the oil as it circulates through the rotors via the Eshaft. Cool oil is a happy rotary.

Heat Exchanger, that's all they are. Water vrs air, both have advantages and disadvantages. The debate will never die. The beehive is acceptable for a street driven vehicle and probably more efficient on a hot day of city driving. Not everyone drives WOT everywhere they go!

Then you are driving it wrong. LOL!

I've heard this rumor thrown around quite a lot, but I have never seen evidence of it. I'm willing to bet it wasn't the bean counters, it was the emissions engineers. You're talking about replacing a simple cooler that has two hoses with a larger radiator, a steel hard line, a beehive, and a series of rubber hoses and changes to the fittings. There is no way the bean counters would stop the assembly line to add all that complexity thinking it would save money. My vote is that it was a hold-over to pass emissions while they developed a long term solution (aka fuel injection). The system helps both fluids get up to operating temperature quicker and stabilizes them with each other. You have one gauge on the dash and if oil or water temps rise, that gauge is going to rise. It works well for making stock power, even on the track. It may not be ideal for an endurance race, but it will keep both fluids cool enough for a typical 20 minute session on a hot day.

Ain't no way I'm switching my front mount out.

pass that shit your smoking...... i'm telling people to add a front mount:smoker: post #17