riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

big ern from what i just read aboe your capping off 2 and plugging 2 n

Big_Ern

yes, that is correct. The GM harness has 4 wires, but only 2 of them are needed (L&S). You probably don't need to cap off the 2 extras (P&F), but I'm not sure what they're used for and I didn't want them to short out on something just in case.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

It would not have to, you can still use the "L" terminal with a self exiting regulator. Only difference is that is has internal circuitry to feed the voltage to the regulator. This eliminates the need for the wire from the battery post to the "S" terminal. It also eliminates to worry about draining your battery.

The industry part number for this regulator is: D411SE

The part numbers for the alternator you used are:

Delco# 1102607 OR 10479954
Lester# 7964 OR 8103


Used On:
(1994-92) Buick LeSabre 3.8L
(1994-91) Buick Park Avenue 3.8L
(1996-94) Chevrolet Caprice 4.3L, 5.7L
(1996) Chevrolet Impala 5.7L
(1994-93) Chevrolet Lumina APV Van 3.8L
(1994-93) Oldsmobile 88 3.8L
(1994-91) Oldsmobile 98 3.8L
(1992) Oldsmobile Delta 88 3.8L
(1994-93) Oldsmobile Silhouette 3.8L
(1994-92) Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L
(1994-93) Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8L


-billy

PATZ

great job!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I knew I'd seen something like this somewhere, so I went searching for it.

There are now two threads in the archive about GM alts on FBs

The one used in those threads actually has two ears we can use on the alt mount, though one has to be ground down a little bit so that it will fit.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/electrical-alternater-upgrade-cheapy-504725/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/electrical-electrical-issues-504729/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/electrical-economical-alternator-upgrade-504723/

Personally, I got an FD alternator because Silverrotor had one and he's local. Dual belt, 100amp, basically bolt-in, and the price was right. Yeah these GM alts are cheaper though if you have a grinder (for the one in the links) or if you just bolt on one ear (for the one in this thread).

But I'm glad there are so many alternatives!

Jon

Big_Ern

Great info Billy. None of those part numbers are the one I used (I bought a remanufactured Bosch alt p/n AL????X) but any good part store should be able to cross reference those numbers to the brand(s) that they carry.


and Jon, Yes it defintitly is great to have so many alternatives to the stock alternator. I'm sure everyone will be able to find something that suits thier needs, budget, skill level, etc

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

when i upgrade to the new alternator or rebuild sort of speaking big ern do i need to change my main fuse to that size or am i fine.. ty

2wankel

iTrader: (1)

Anyone found a good place to buy a rebuilt 140 amp alt?

Jose Feliciano

nice wright up I will try it

Big_Ern

I didn't upgrade any of the stock wiring or fusible links, but I'm sure it would help. If you swapped out the fusible links for the newer style fuses, replaced the main + cable going to the alt as well as the rest of you battery cables I'm sure it would make an even bigger difference.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

is the 60 amp the biggest they make as the main

2wankel

iTrader: (1)

Will this fit? (lookee here) Only thing it says 70 to 80 amps at idle. Does that mean at higher revs you get more amps?

thanks

Big_Ern

if you know what you're doing ANYTHING can fit. Its just a matter of how easy. That alternator *appears* to be fairly similar in shape to mine, but its hard to tell for sure from a picture.

and 70-80 amps at idle is very good. 160 is extreme overkill though unless you're rally racing with a half dozen 150W+ lights and a huge stereo.

Also note that since it is a 1-wrie setup your idiot light won't work. I dunno if this is an issue for you, but I like all my gauges & lights etc to work like they did from the factory.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

hey big ern i read this in a alternator site and was wondering do i need to do this, High Performance 160 and 200 amp units must have the positive battery wire upgraded, please refer to our technical information page for wire sizes and for us it would be 8 gauge. and what was kewl was the price for the 105 amp was 70 bucks.

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Yes Junkyard find! 20 dollars! woohoo! I am doing this as soon as I have the time. I think its a Delco, Im going to pick it up later today

Alak

iTrader: (9)

I scored a 140 AMP one at the wreckers. I was able to install WITHOUT Modification to the alternator body. Hammer was used. Im a bit more........trailer trash I guess.

Big_Ern

ya, i could have installed it without grinding, but then the pulleys won't line up perfectly and the belt will wear out a lot quicker. It'll probably squeal a bit too.

d0 Luck

this should be defenitely archived.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

hey big ern did u read the message i wrote ya up a few

Alak

iTrader: (9)

I did an install of the one with my 93 olds alternator. Its the same thing, only a slight difference.


There were two wires availiable:

F and L

USING Factory connector.

Puzzled, I hooked up To S with power wire and nothing. I hooked up power wire to F and HOLY MOLEY. Takes all more Horsepower just to run the alternator. 16v!!!

Turn off car. Turn on again. Alternator wont 'Kick in'. Runs off battery only.

WTF?

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

could be bad alternator alak

Alak

iTrader: (9)

Whomp Whomp Whooooomp.


Oh well, it was only 20$. Too bad it was like the only alternator they had that was 92+

Big_Ern

Yes. Did you read my other reply to you a few posts up from that?

Big_Ern

I'm confused. you said there were only 2 wires F & L. but then you go onto say you hooked up power to the S terminal..??

assuming you do infact only have the F & L terminal I would assume that this alternator has some sort of internal sensing thus not needing the S terminal. The F was not used on my GM alt (I assume it is some sort of sensor the computer needs that we don't have) and I would guess that your Ford alt is the same. The L ternimal CANNOT be hooked up directly. I need to be either inline with the idiot light, or have an equivalent resistor inline. This is very important and is what turns the alternator on.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

hey big ern i read this in a alternator site and was wondering do i need to do this, High Performance 160 and 200 amp units must have the positive battery wire upgraded, please refer to our technical information page for wire sizes and for us it would be 8 gauge. and what was kewl was the price for the 105 amp was 70 bucks.


did u read that 1 earleir i sent big ern