[Searched] high idle and dropping electrical
 

1985 12a manual 140k rats nest removed, everything capped, sterling nikki, rb exhaust, carter fuel pump, holley fpr

Couple of things I could use some help with

fuel return check valve - where to find one?

little brass nipple in between oil pump lines on carb - where the eff does that go?

idle - 3k to drive, 1500 to sit

tried carb cleaner to find vacuum leaks

couldn't find it (any good places to try? I don't know all the abbreviations so full names will help lol

anything electrical brings rpm down (ie: heater, lights, wipers, turn signals and brake lights)

timing is good

rough idle, has sparks on leading and trailing

anyone know anybody in Kansas City I could take this to?

this is driving me bananas. any suggestions could help

thanks in advance

-Jake

Brass nipple between & directly below the OMP lines is for the sub-zero start assist system. If you're not using that system, cap it.

Idle's way too high. Did you go through Sterling's idle adjustment procedure after install? Got enough slack in your throttle cable?

Got the FSM and the carb maunal from Sgt Fox? Those'll help you trace systems, make sure everything's capped off that needs to be.

Alrighty the nipple is capped. I've gone through the idle adjustments. I'll try the FSM for leaks. Thanks

Good news. Got her down to 900 rpm. SO satisfying. I replaced one vacuum plug at the bottom of the carb, also I just bought new coils (accel) and one of them was leaking from the stock coil bracket??? Its from being sideways not vertical I believe. Remounted them. Also blew through some Seafoam in a pretty cool way. May do a write up, per all the threads with the questions. Thanks a lot divindriver, I just needed that push to get in there and figure this out.

Does anybody know reasons why using anything electrical would drop my rpms and run rough? And fuel return check valve - where to find one?

Also no write up on the seafoam. (Kentetsu will just say I'm wasting good money going through a vacuum line) :)