RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum (https://www.rx7club.com/)
-   1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/)
-   -   [1] 82 for sale, should I buy it? (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/%5B1%5D-82-sale-should-i-buy-68619/)

TAMAatWork 04-06-02 08:51 PM

[1] 82 for sale, should I buy it?
 
Hi All,


I want your opinion on this please. I have a 3rd gen RX7 so I know it well. But the first gen I don't. I have found a nice 82 that is in very good shape that has 30k on the new engine, new clutch and some other things. Everything looks very clean. They want 1900 for it.

Is there anything wrong with the 82's? The 84's and 85's are the 13b and fuel injected. Would you say I should get one of those instead?

Let me know your thoughts. I need to decide by Monday if I am going to buy it or not.

I might even have to sell my 3rd gen. I think I can get 17k for it. But I want an RX7 to be driving until I have the money for another 3rd gen.


Thanks,
Joseph
Perspective 1st Gen Buyer

MIKE-P-28 04-06-02 09:07 PM

Not all 84-85 were FI 13B's, a lot were 12A's. Only the GSL-SE was a 13b EFI...

Now he wants 1900 for it? Id give him $1500 if the car is solid, and hasnt any rust of any major flaws :D Just my opinion but I wouldnt go over $1700 at most...And thats still kinda high, unless the car is PRISITNE!

mike

V8kilr 04-06-02 09:11 PM

i agree with mike,

things to look for,

check to see if exhaust is still stock or aftermarket,

ask about intake and carbie,

go to the rear inner wheel wells and punch and hit them and make sure your hand doesnt go through them,


make sure all the electrical still works nice,

ask why he rebuilt it,

hmmm,any more questions to ask or things to look for fellas?

82transam 04-06-02 09:13 PM

I agree with Mike 1900 is high, i personally wouldn't even offer 1500. I got my 83 for 1150, it's all original one owner 99k on it. that's just my opinion, if the car is in real good shape then maybe 1500. Got any pics to show us?

Wattz 04-06-02 09:16 PM

Make sure the tranny is in good shape. It sucks to buy a car with a new engine, but an old tranny and have it fall out.

82transam 04-06-02 09:44 PM

That's a good point, be sure to check that.

TAMAatWork 04-07-02 06:59 AM

Yeah, he didn't say why it was rebuilt. He also converted over the A/C. I guess that was a good 250 - 750? It also has a redone interior. Seats look brand new. Has a CD player. He was asking 2300 but I talked him down to 1900 already. But I don't think he will go much lower. Maybe 1800. But he put probably 1000 - 1500 into it for the engine and clutch etc. so that is why the price is so high.

I test drove it and it was fine. The car felt a little heavy and a fair amount of body roll. There was a lot of wind noise at about 60. I didn't take it over 60 since I wasn't on that big of a rd. There were a few rattles but I figured that was expected with a 20 year old car.

So do you guys think I should pass? It looked like a pretty good car.

Oh, also it didn't have power mirrors, locks or windows and had no sun roof. When I asked him if it was a GS or GSL etc. he said it wasn't any of those. He even had the original owners manual and window sticker. I should have looked at it to tell but at the time thought maybe only the later 84 or 85 had the GS designations. So what model do you think it is?


Thanks,
Joseph :)

Dyno 04-07-02 08:44 AM

What you're looking at is an "S" model. Not a lot made, it was the base model. For negotiation purposes, keep pointing out the lack of sunroof and options. But don't get too freaky about the price if it really, absolutely is a rust free body. Start by removing the rear bins. and using a flashlight look at the rear wheelwells through the bin openings. If its going to rust, thats the place. Also, remove the plastic gaurd at the bottom of the doors, shine a flashlight down into the rocker through the little holes. Rust starts there, works out.

If you can't find rust or crash damage and its fairly original, you're in good shape. While the world is full of sunroofed street cars, those clean non sunroof models are the preferable starting point for a race car. It will never be a collectors car, but you'll always have someone looking for it. They're probably not going to want to pay quite that much, but some of us Northern folks have been known to drive across several states and fork over 2/3 rds of your price for a running rust free non sunroof model.

V8kilr 04-07-02 11:20 AM

good point on removing the rear bins,

this are of the club should be checked in and out,it is very important to check this spot above all.


hey dyno have you joined up to the michigan rx7 club yet?

82transam 04-07-02 07:50 PM

Dyno: They didn't make a lot of "S"'s?? What is most common then GS? I have an S, I kinda like it's simplicity, no center armrest, no power mirrors etc, it didn't even have a power hatch release when I got it, I put one in cause it annoyed the hell out of me. So Tamaatwork I would go for it; try to get him to lower the price a little more.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:09 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands