try it, there should be a ~20 difference between, but that isn't an absolute

Nope, you do not need to change them together. If you need to correct your AFR only on one side of the power band, you change only one or the other.
If I remember air corrector has more impact at high rpms.

How does smaller air jet impact AFR above 3500 rpm?

UPDATE: I put in .170 MAIN and .150 AIR jets and AFR got worse, meaning it got richer, and the car started to stumble again around 3000 RPM. I didn't expect that, so I put back .180 / .160 main / air. Unsure how to make it run leaner but at the same time have better acceleration above 4000 RPM. Any ideas? :(

try the 170 jet with the larger air. the 20 thing is a guideline, and since you have some jets to try, try them all

Did that 170 main 160 air and AFR got fixed. It seems that now the car has better pickup at higher rev above 3500 RPM. Does it drive better, then 180 / 160 maybe little bit. There are more things to adjust on that weber. I need to go through my shopping cart and see what else I got in there, I bought bunch of other bits and pieces.

But I ran into a new issue, the fuel pump keeps on running and so does the engine, after the key is off and out. Any idea what to check, fuel pump relay, ECU...?

lol! do you have an electric fan?

Yes there are two radiator cooling fans.

if the fans are running they can actually generate enough power to run the car after its switched off for a bit. Mazda always uses two relays for the the fan system, one to actually run the fan, and the other basically sops the fans from running the car

I don't think fans ran when this happens but i will pay attention next time. It only happens when the engine is hot.

Can rotaries "diesel" because of bad timing?

OP needs to investigate nature of fuel pump wiring and DFI wiring. Sounds as if fuel pump wiring is backfeeding ignition coil primary feed circuit.

You’d have to ask a nun,but rotarys,very unlikely.

lol, fixed it.

Thats exactly what I am going to do. As a quick fix install a switch to manually disconnect GND from the fuel pump circuit when this happens.

Hello again, I still haven't fixed the fuel pump issue. Its a PITA any way you look at it.

Now, I took the car for emission test in Boulder and it failed miserably. Both readings were 10x higher then acceptable. I knew the car is running a bit too rich but this came as a surprise. I did some readings and found that I should check the ACV (air control valve), the air pump and CAT converter. I thought both ACV and air pump were in a stock car, but removed when the conversion to weber was done. Does weber need any of it? How could I check if ACV and air pump are installed? Could someone share a picture of where to look? thanks guys

Oh dude, no, no that car will never pass emissions. It's ACV, air pump and CATS (all 3 of them) were thrown in the trash a long time ago. All of the emmissions bits are gone from your car man. It's totally hot-rodded. Like I said before, it looks nicely done, but no man, you won't ever pass emmissions with that car unless you return it to stock or almost stock. The guy that built it obviously didn't have to pass emissions where he lived. Sorry man.

if you had a stock lower intake, you could put an air pump and ACV on it. depending on the emissions you need to meet, it might do it, if it needs to be lower it would need a cat

you could also go EFI...

He bought a nicely put together webber equipped 200hp 1st gen, without realizing he lived in a smog state. Now he has the choice of scrounging old junk yard parts to cut his power in half, or dropping another $2500 to change it over to EFI. Damn.

Thats what I was afraid of, it sucks. The car came from WA it didn't need emission test in WA, before that it was in CA I am guessing it didn't need it there either or it was only driven on track.

Could you give me some references if I chose to go EFI, perhaps a 2nd gen. FC swap, or even RX8 swap. They are dirt cheap now.

if it was a GSL-SE to start with the GSL-SE stuff will just go right on.

you could try and find an air pump and an exhaust with a cat, and just plumb the air pump air in front of the cat, it might work that way

What about installing this: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...iper_efi_1250/ ?

I read it could reduce emission by about 22% which may not be enough, but...Could I get away with just EFI or would I still need the air pump, ACV and CAT? Any thoughts?

assuming the engine is running ok, the air pump does most of the cleanup, and then the cat finishes it off.

I'd suggest even smaller chokes for more signal, I run 42s (due to class restriction, but its still big) on large street ports. Also try F8 E tubes, 70f10 idle, jet and air in the mains should be fine to run and see how it goes, if your ignition is solid you should still be able to accelerate at 10:1 afr.