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-   -   Subjective Fun Factor: FB RX-7 GS vs GSL-SE (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/subjective-fun-factor-fb-rx-7-gs-vs-gsl-se-1111649/)

Plisskin 03-12-17 01:30 AM

Subjective Fun Factor: FB RX-7 GS vs GSL-SE
 
I've been in the market for a first generation for a while now.
I really like the gsl-se (who doesn't :)) but have come across a lot of lower mileage, reasonably priced GS cars. Of course, these feature a live axle, and 12A. I do like the hardtop ones though. I am just thinking more and more that it is not not such a hot idea to get into 12As when parts are getting harder to come by...


My questions are---What are some opinions on the subjective fun factor of the GS verses GSL-SE? (obviously the GSL-SE has more power and pulls more G on the skidpad) What are some opinions about buying a 12A equipped car?


(I change my own fluids and spark plugs, ect... But swapping out a LSD or a 13b into a GS would be a harder undertaking for my current skill level.)

Johnny Kommavongsa 03-12-17 08:49 AM

Ive had a 12a first gen but hated the fact thst it was carb. Iven been itching to get a SE because it has FI and think i would enjoy it more.

KansasCityREPU 03-12-17 01:35 PM

I went through just the opposite. I had a really nice 1985 GSL-SE RX-7. Looked and ran great. I found a really nice looking early 1979 GS non-sunroof but it doesn't run. Once I saw it in person I fell in love with it.

I sold the GSL-SE on a Saturday and bought the 1979 the next day. I love the simplicity of the 1979. If the 12A ever gives out, I'll just rebuild/replace the 12A or convert to 13B carb if needed. This is one car I will never sell, just like my REPUs. I have found that if you find a car you really like, selling it can lead to regret. Some cars you just have to keep.

j9fd3s 03-12-17 03:45 PM

basically for just the fun factor, the 12A's are very nearly as good as the GSL-SE's, there just isn't that much difference.

the GSL-SE is a little more relaxed on the freeway, especially a later one with the taller overdrive, and the EFI is better around corners, but other than that its pretty much the same car.

i too had a 79 GS like Mr Repu, and it was great, it is totally useable as a daily car, but its just so cool. its like what they thought in 1978 that a car would be like in 1998.

another honorable mention is my 83 Limited Edition, that car, for whatever reason all the control efforts were just so well balanced, it was just a joy to drive.

i've had a bunch of GSL-SE's too, and they are just about the best car Mazda has ever made, its fun, practical, easy to use, reliable, and for them its really durable too we used to regularly see them with 300k on the clock.

so you really can't go wrong with any of them

t_g_farrell 03-13-17 08:38 AM

There are 2 collectable categories for 1st gens, GSL-SE and the 79-80 SA. If you go 12A, get a
nice SA special edition like the LS or LE. Also, the 12A may be harder to replace engine parts like
housings but its a very tough engine compared to the 13B. It can take a lot more abuse and
continue to run well.

The 81-85 12As are very plentiful and easy to come by a clean example. The late year 83 is
probably the most desirable of the bunch, LSD rearend, bigger bearings (I think), lightest
rotating assembly, and the second best interior (SA is the best!).

Qingdao 03-13-17 01:37 PM

If I were in your shoes I'd get the GS... then after owning an old RX7 and dealing with the problems associated with an old car for a while get the more expensive GSL-SE.


Where abouts in Charleston are you?

82transam 03-13-17 01:40 PM

As the others said, the GSL-SE is the better car for the most part, but all SA/FB's are great, fun cars. I would be more concerned with finding a clean, rust free (as much as possible at least) example so that you can enjoy it without doing a major overhaul (unless you're like me and enjoy that kind of silliness lol) rather than focus on finding one year/model over another. But that's just my 2 cents.

In my opinion the 84/85 interior materials are of much better quality and seem to last much longer than the earlier cars. That said I like the 83 style dash/controls best from a visual standpoint - the 84/85 stuff is more modern and user friendly though. Honestly if you put a nice double din touch screen in an 84/85 and maybe make a few small tweaks you could probably convince people it's a new, or newer car's interior...

I'll stop rambling - you can't really go wrong, they're all awesome :D

Plisskin 03-13-17 03:03 PM


Originally Posted by Qingdao (Post 12161890)
If I were in your shoes I'd get the GS... then after owning an old RX7 and dealing with the problems associated with an old car for a while get the more expensive GSL-SE.


Where abouts in Charleston are you?

I'm in the North Charleston area.

Plisskin 03-13-17 03:05 PM

Thank you for all of the replies so far. I've always like gsl-ses, but they seem to command a real premium over 12as.

RXTbone 03-16-17 11:35 AM

Completely subjective (and not to bag on anyone's ride) - I've had both and prefer the pre -'84-'85 12A cars. Though it doesn't have the same ooomph as the 13B, I always appreciated that the 12A seems to spooled up quicker and smoother. No empirical data to prove it - just feels that way. I also like the 12A because its the original engine Mazda used, and the 13B's continued into the next gen - so there's some 'vintage' consideration.

I've had multiple GSL's, I prefer the LSD and rear discs. I dislike the '84-85 interiors - they're very 80's and I'm not a fan of chrome-ish dashes. I think the original interior design has better stood the test of time. I do prefer the integrated bumpers of the '81 + cars, also.

Have fun shopping!

Jeff20B 03-16-17 02:11 PM

I like the 84-85 interiors the best. I don't like EFI.

The perfect RX-7 in my opinion would be an 84-85 interior, 4 port 13B, ported to 74 spec, hogged out Nikki, light steel flywheel, RB long primary exhaust, direct fire ignition. You drive one set up like this and you'll wonder why they never came from the factory this way.

YELLOWGSLSE 03-16-17 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by Jeff20B (Post 12163282)
I like the 84-85 interiors the best. I don't like EFI.

The perfect RX-7 in my opinion would be an 84-85 interior, 4 port 13B, ported to 74 spec, hogged out Nikki, light steel flywheel, RB long primary exhaust, direct fire ignition. You drive one set up like this and you'll wonder why they never came from the factory this way.

Curious; would a Turbo II engine work as the 4 port 13b in this scenario?

KYPREO 03-16-17 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by YELLOWGSLSE (Post 12163314)
Curious; would a Turbo II engine work as the 4 port 13b in this scenario?

Yes, this is pretty much what I had. Series 5 turbo 4 port block with adapter plate, 12A manifold and 12A nikki, hogged out, rejetted, mechanical secondaries etc. Long primary exhaust, 4.44 LSD differential. The only thing different from Jeff's ideal setup was that my 84-85, being a RHD series 3, got your 81-83 style dash etc, which I happen to prefer.

The s5 turbo engine is pretty comparable to the 70s 13B blocks all things considered. Even though the rotors are slightly lower compression 9.0 vs 9.2, I believe the s5 turbo rotors are lighter. s4 turbo blocks have the lower compression rotors and I image would be a bit more sluggish.

I can tell you though that I preferred the 12A setup. It had less low-mid rpm torque, but revved all day and produced the same peak power as the 13B, just at 1,000rpm higher. I'd really want to port the 13B to bring it alive. I'm just sticking a turbo on instead.

KYPREO 03-16-17 11:13 PM

ADDENDUM: yes the series 5 turbo rotors weight considerably less than the s4 TII, gsl-se 13B and RX4/5 13B rotors, see: AusRotary.com ? View topic - Rotor Weights

Jeff20B 03-17-17 12:03 AM


Originally Posted by YELLOWGSLSE
Curious; would a Turbo II engine work as the 4 port 13b in this scenario?

No. It was not my intention. I should have been more clear. But it could be a T2 if you needed it to be, I suppose. But what I was talking about is using Y or R5 irons ported 74 spec so all four are the same size, not the staggered size of the EFI engines where the primaries have to be small to keep velocity up for the injector to work right. Having them all the same size works great with a carb and you get more port area at the same time. I'd also use an NO or REPU/RX-4 or Cosmo intake manifold meant for Hitachi carbs, drilled and tapped and channeled for a Nikki.

The Nikki can still work on your ideal engine, of course, and I plan to do just that on an S4 6 port with a properly modded manifold similar to what Qingdao has done. I've tested them before with stock and lightly modded Nikkis with excellent results. Now a properly hogged out Nikki will take its place and I expect near perfection from it.

YELLOWGSLSE 03-17-17 06:35 AM


Originally Posted by KYPREO (Post 12163473)
Yes, this is pretty much what I had. Series 5 turbo 4 port block with adapter plate, 12A manifold and 12A nikki, hogged out, rejetted, mechanical secondaries etc. Long primary exhaust, 4.44 LSD differential. The only thing different from Jeff's ideal setup was that my 84-85, being a RHD series 3, got your 81-83 style dash etc, which I happen to prefer.

The s5 turbo engine is pretty comparable to the 70s 13B blocks all things considered. Even though the rotors are slightly lower compression 9.0 vs 9.2, I believe the s5 turbo rotors are lighter. s4 turbo blocks have the lower compression rotors and I image would be a bit more sluggish.

I can tell you though that I preferred the 12A setup. It had less low-mid rpm torque, but revved all day and produced the same peak power as the 13B, just at 1,000rpm higher. I'd really want to port the 13B to bring it alive. I'm just sticking a turbo on instead.



Originally Posted by Jeff20B (Post 12163484)
No. It was not my intention. I should have been more clear. But it could be a T2 if you needed it to be, I suppose. But what I was talking about is using Y or R5 irons ported 74 spec so all four are the same size, not the staggered size of the EFI engines where the primaries have to be small to keep velocity up for the injector to work right. Having them all the same size works great with a carb and you get more port area at the same time. I'd also use an NO or REPU/RX-4 or Cosmo intake manifold meant for Hitachi carbs, drilled and tapped and channeled for a Nikki.

The Nikki can still work on your ideal engine, of course, and I plan to do just that on an S4 6 port with a properly modded manifold similar to what Qingdao has done. I've tested them before with stock and lightly modded Nikkis with excellent results. Now a properly hogged out Nikki will take its place and I expect near perfection from it.

Got it. Thank you both for the clarification.


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