my first drive with my new gsl-se.
took my seven on a nice 4 hour drive ran into a couple problems first my battery tie down broke so my bat jumped out of place mid drive nothing was damaged just but the batt back for now and tied it down with some zipties always helps to be ready lol my hid's also stoped working as soon as it started getting dark but kept a spare kit in the back so i switched them out before continuing. from what i can tell she has a 6 port slight streetported 13 b with stock headers stock cat and 2.5 straight back flex pipe to the muffler i have an elderblock 1406 which SUCKS def switching to a holley as soon as i can i have loads of idling problems and i dont feel enough power when only 4 of my ports are kicking its only when the other 2 open up when she really gets narly other than that the drive was amazing she handles smooth rides smooth and i love her more now def gonna get the racing beat headers and cat just to improve on performance and def switching to a holey when i can.
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Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
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I wouldn't bother with the cat since you are running aftermarket carb...you will never pass smog and nor do you have to anymore...free it up. Racing beat header presilencer and a decent muffler all connected with about 2 and quarter in pipe. Get the six port holley manifold to go with the carb...you are not going to open the 5/6 ports without the actuators on the stock intake mani i believe (not sure on that)...but the holley carb and mani is a proven formula as is some six port side draft combo's (great driveability here). Sounds like you are off to a great start...post up some vid's or something...your current set up might need a tune or jetting which can improve things alot. Hope this helps.
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Originally Posted by cfamilyfix
(Post 11058940)
I wouldn't bother with the cat since you are running aftermarket carb...you will never pass smog and nor do you have to anymore...free it up. Racing beat header presilencer and a decent muffler all connected with about 2 and quarter in pipe. Get the six port holley manifold to go with the carb...you are not going to open the 5/6 ports without the actuators on the stock intake mani i believe (not sure on that)...but the holley carb and mani is a proven formula as is some six port side draft combo's (great driveability here). Sounds like you are off to a great start...post up some vid's or something...your current set up might need a tune or jetting which can improve things alot. Hope this helps.
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The Edelbrock 1406 can be tuned to run pretty well with good drivability on a rotary if you know how to tune a carb. I had one on my old 82 with a S4 13B 6 port (stock porting) and it ran quite well once I had it tuned, took a bit of work and a wideband to get it there but it would hold 13.5-14:1 on a AFR's. I personally would take an Edelbrock over a Holley any day for simplicity. There are a few threads in the 1st gen forums on how to tune the Edelbrock/Carter carbs for a rotary engine.
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Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
(Post 11059621)
The Edelbrock 1406 can be tuned to run pretty well with good drivability on a rotary if you know how to tune a carb. I had one on my old 82 with a S4 13B 6 port (stock porting) and it ran quite well once I had it tuned, took a bit of work and a wideband to get it there but it would hold 13.5-14:1 on a AFR's. I personally would take an Edelbrock over a Holley any day for simplicity. There are a few threads in the 1st gen forums on how to tune the Edelbrock/Carter carbs for a rotary engine.
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fixed it 8] runs fast and smooth
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https://www.facebook.com/stanley.her...=2905959340160 vid of her idle and rev
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Originally Posted by Denser
(Post 11063775)
fixed it 8] runs fast and smooth
I find it interesting people generally don't like the Edelbrock and many said the 600cfm was too big for a stockport 13B, while I was running similar jets to what a chev 305 would be running with this carb. Actually, straight out of the box it was tuned relatively well for my engine and was completely driveable in that setup, but far from optimized. I found some improvement in changing the metering rods for top end, and after much messing around found one size smaller on the primary jets to work well. Don't ask what jets I was using though as I haven't the slightest clue anymore lol. |
sounds mean!
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Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
(Post 11070035)
What did you end up changing to get the low RPM lag out? I am suspecting the metering rods were either too lean or too rich on the first step (part throttle and low RPM). Also, have you modded the counterweights on the extra butterfly valve in the secondaries? Can't remember exactly what that part is called lol. I found a bit of improvement in the transition by lightening the counterweights.
I find it interesting people generally don't like the Edelbrock and many said the 600cfm was too big for a stockport 13B, while I was running similar jets to what a chev 305 would be running with this carb. Actually, straight out of the box it was tuned relatively well for my engine and was completely driveable in that setup, but far from optimized. I found some improvement in changing the metering rods for top end, and after much messing around found one size smaller on the primary jets to work well. Don't ask what jets I was using though as I haven't the slightest clue anymore lol. |
Originally Posted by Denser
(Post 11070268)
you're quite right it was tuned pretty good for out the box my car ran a slight high rpm and would die out if i cornered or broke too hard but other than that i was able to drive. the rough idle was a number of things i had to connect a vacumm line in order to stabalize the idle a bit and never really tried the counterweight thing but might look into it. i def swaped out the primary jets after the first few drives
I think to detect if the air valve is not opening fully or fast enough, feel for very slow throttle response in 4th gear at freeway speeds as you quickly go to WOT from a steady speed cruise. Given the speed of the car and what gear your in, engine speed will not increase quickly giving you a chance to feel for the transition when the secondary barrels come into full effect, but your engine speed (probably around 4000-4500rpm) should be a good point that the air valve will open fully if tuned right. If you can't detect a slow transition then your air valve is probably functioning pretty well and it would probably be best if you just leave it alone. |
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