2 Attachment(s)
Used the stock s5 turbo heat shield on my borgwarner s360 turbo. The heat shield usually covers the turbine and manifold. In my case only overs half the turbine housing :D
Attachment 556862 As u can see space is tight |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ea1bb65652.jpg
My homemade flywheel nut removal tool https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5192771fd3.jpg Flywheel stopper. (So it doesnt move while removing flywheel nut) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e93a0bf2b.jpg Another pic of it installed |
Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee
(Post 12035509)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ea1bb65652.jpg
My homemade flywheel nut removal tool https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5192771fd3.jpg Flywheel stopper. (So it doesnt move while removing flywheel nut) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e93a0bf2b.jpg Another pic of it installed |
Both of those tools took hours of development in cad software, 3d printers and r&d for several months before they were given to me for use. Lol
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^ nice! Ive got a backyard saw-tooth flywheel stop that i made sitting in the garage. Definitely less skill and effort was involved compared to your amazing flywheel socket. I take my hat off to that, thing's a work of art!
Today's bodge job was using a tiny screw, a tiny drill bit, a ground down spade terminal and a gob of solder to bodge a broken-off terminal on my AIT sensor untill a new one comes in. |
Originally Posted by WANKfactor
(Post 12035731)
^ nice! Ive got a backyard saw-tooth flywheel stop that i made sitting in the garage. Definitely less skill and effort was involved compared to your amazing flywheel socket. I take my hat off to that, thing's a work of art!
Today's bodge job was using a tiny screw, a tiny drill bit, a ground down spade terminal and a gob of solder to bodge a broken-off terminal on my AIT sensor untill a new one comes in. |
Modified the turbo inlet duct fory fb turbo2 swap. Had to plug up a couple holes for emissions crap that is no longer there
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b2e3d26e01.jpg Basically just inserted a large bolt into the larger hole, put on a hose clamp, cut off the head, put some panel bond on the inside of the hole until it was full, and put some on the outside, on the smaller hole i just panel bonded a push in body clip in. Total price, 0.00. :egrin: |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee
(Post 12035749)
You should post some pics. Incase we have to fix the same part, we can use your idea for a repair and the flywheel stop
Flywheel stop. Cut with a grinder, bolts to the rear iron. Very easy. But yours is better. I wish i thought of that lol. I guess i just saw what scrap was immediately available to work with and that's what I came up with. And my Idler pully to stop water pump slip and avoid over tensioning belts. Works great but you can see it had a negative effect on the bosch belts. I'm hoping this was due to the "Belt Grip" i was spraying all over them prior to installing the idler. New belts are in, we'll see how they go. If i get the same problem I'll do something else. |
another one was the coolant level sensor on the radiator. The epoxy seemed to delaminate from the thread on mine and had to destroy it getting it out. To my disillusionment, a replacement was prohibitive in price and for some reason was a 4 month back order from japan so i made my own out of a steel plug, drilled to take a fairly heavy guage wire with shrink wrap and sealed with silicone.
The trick is to fill the cable up with soldier to prevent coolant wicking up and out, to ensure that the exposed tip is the right depth and that everything else is sealed and insulated. Been in the car for a year with zero problems and it doesnt look silly or anything. |
Originally Posted by WANKfactor
(Post 12044010)
another one was the coolant level sensor on the radiator. The epoxy seemed to delaminate from the thread on mine and had to destroy it getting it out. To my disillusionment, a replacement was prohibitive in price and for some reason was a 4 month back order from japan so i made my own out of a steel plug, drilled to take a fairly heavy guage wire with shrink wrap and sealed with silicone.
The trick is to fill the cable up with soldier to prevent coolant wicking up and out, to ensure that the exposed tip is the right depth and that everything else is sealed and insulated. Been in the car for a year with zero problems and it doesnt look silly or anything. |
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