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-   1st Gen General Discussion (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/)
-   -   Diy modifications (those of us on a budget) (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/diy-modifications-those-us-budget-1015915/)

rotaryjunkee 01-08-13 09:44 AM

I finished my 2nd Gen oil cooler install (no welding required). And all it cost was 50.00 to lengthen the stock 2nd Gen oil cooler hoses. Ill post pics up this evening, showing it all.

rotaryjunkee 01-10-13 06:19 AM

2 Attachment(s)
:( well I guess this thread died LOL, no biggie. Ill go ahead and show pics of my 2nd Gen oil cooler install. All you need is a set of 2nd Gen oil cooler hoses, the rear hose doesn't change. But the front hose I had lengthened 12 more inches. You will also need some angle.
The first pic is the left side, the second is of the right. Installing it this way gives you the option of keeping a/c as I did.

jjandros 01-10-13 10:17 AM

I figure I'll add. I went to a local autocross event and one of the older 50+ racers was talking to me about his suspension. I told him I was thinking of buying some coilovers and he told me not to waste my time and just refill a cheap set.

Basically you drill a hole in the lower end of the shock, syphon ALL the gas out and then re pump the same amoun that you pulled out back into the cylinder. The trick is that you refill it with a heavy weight oil. Once full you bend a piece of sheet metal tight around the cylinder and weld it all the way around. The result is a stiffer suspension with little to no cost. I'm not saying that it's better than i nice set of coilovers but the way it handled I never would've guesses it was just refilled with heavy weight oil. I'll be trying it over the next few weeks.

rotaryjunkee 01-10-13 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by jjandros (Post 11340682)
I figure I'll add. I went to a local autocross event and one of the older 50+ racers was talking to me about his suspension. I told him I was thinking of buying some coilovers and he told me not to waste my time and just refill a cheap set.

Basically you drill a hole in the lower end of the shock, syphon ALL the gas out and then re pump the same amoun that you pulled out back into the cylinder. The trick is that you refill it with a heavy weight oil. Once full you bend a piece of sheet metal tight around the cylinder and weld it all the way around. The result is a stiffer suspension with little to no cost. I'm not saying that it's better than i nice set of coilovers but the way it handled I never would've guesses it was just refilled with heavy weight oil. I'll be trying it over the next few weeks.

1st off thanks for adding to the thread jjandros. 2nd. Is that for the front or rear?

jjandros 01-14-13 10:45 PM

shock modding
 
Well I found the guys email he gave me and he stated that he does it to All of the front of his cars. When he does both front and rear he said he had good results with a heavier weight in the front and a tad lighter weight in the rear. He also mentioned that buying acheap set of ebay collars/ springs can make the shocks act like a resonable set of adjustable height coilovers. My biggest question was how often he's blown them. He didn't recommend them for rallying (go figure..) but for autocross or weekend warrior cars he hasn't had a problem in his 20 years he's been doing it. I wouldn't expect them to last 10 seasons but definietly worth a try while you're deciding to save up for a good set of coilovers. Especially if you can get your hands on a cheap spare set of stock shocks to play with. I'll be in search for some cheap sets and some 100 lb springs to test it out.

*Sorry for such a late reply

PK_12A 01-15-13 01:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
How bout my custom stereo suround,
Attachment 685611
It was all ready cut so I put in a modern stereo and filled the pocket
slot for gauges and added a working temp next to center.

RxTex 01-15-13 11:56 PM

paint it black = gangster

PK_12A 01-16-13 02:15 PM

I have debated it, may find a second one to do black. I had intended to do black and white
problem is the white shows more dirt than the black and staims on sight, if I do it I'm thinking
semi gloss and new switch gear or making some swiches.

RxTex 01-16-13 03:57 PM

When I converted my interior pieces to black, I took lots of time sanding and prepping all of the pieces before painting.

When I painted, I used Krylon Fusion for plastic, in a Satin finish. I did about 5 coats, and after a few days of hardening, the results were great.

Personally, I'd stay away from anything with a gloss or semi gloss finish for interior pieces. Its much more difficult to apply evenly, and tends to look blotchy in the sunlight.

rotaryjunkee 01-28-13 10:06 AM


Originally Posted by jjandros (Post 11345178)
Well I found the guys email he gave me and he stated that he does it to All of the front of his cars. When he does both front and rear he said he had good results with a heavier weight in the front and a tad lighter weight in the rear. He also mentioned that buying acheap set of ebay collars/ springs can make the shocks act like a resonable set of adjustable height coilovers. My biggest question was how often he's blown them. He didn't recommend them for rallying (go figure..) but for autocross or weekend warrior cars he hasn't had a problem in his 20 years he's been doing it. I wouldn't expect them to last 10 seasons but definietly worth a try while you're deciding to save up for a good set of coilovers. Especially if you can get your hands on a cheap spare set of stock shocks to play with. I'll be in search for some cheap sets and some 100 lb springs to test it out.

*Sorry for such a late reply

Any luck on the DIY shock modification? And did the Guy talk about any particular company that sells the collars and springs for cheap?

flight_of_pain 01-28-13 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee (Post 11358110)
Any luck on the DIY shock modification? And did the Guy talk about any particular company that sells the collars and springs for cheap?

Any circle track shop will sell springs/collars/threaded sleeves/tophats/ect.


Isaac

jjandros 02-10-13 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee (Post 11358110)
Any luck on the DIY shock modification? And did the Guy talk about any particular company that sells the collars and springs for cheap?

He said that he bought a few sets of collars on ebay and goes to shops in the area and asks what kind of springs they might sell to fit them. The ebay springs they come with are alright but are all the same spring rate so buying different rates is a must. I talked to him somemore and he said that the collars can be used on ANY shocks/struts but the gas/oil refill can only be done on shocks;which use oil. High pressure struts are usually nitrogen filled and will explode if punctured so let me be sure to mention that. As of now I purchased a set off ebay shipped to my door for $35. Obviously the ride will suck on stock suspension. The point isn't to lower the vehicle at this pointbut to give the suspension some stability while lowering maybe an inch. If the ride isn't terrible and no noticible tire wear then I'll upgrade to tokiko struts. If it sucks then it's time to save for coilovers. The point to remember about these are that they aren't for comfort but to cut down on the money used on an autocross car as there are limits to the amount you can spend in different classes. Hope that answers some questions.

rotaryjunkee 02-11-13 10:45 AM

I appreciate the input jjandros. I'm looking into suspension upgrades for myself and the diy'er. Cuz obviously this thread is for those of us on a tight budget.

jjandros 02-12-13 03:04 PM


Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee (Post 11372885)
I appreciate the input jjandros. I'm looking into suspension upgrades for myself and the diy'er. Cuz obviously this thread is for those of us on a tight budget.

As long as you play with the settings and don't mind fabricating or modifying parts then it works. The suspension mods will work as good as you make them work. A lot cheaper than a full set of adjustable coilovers though. And you can always return to stock. I like the look. Depending on how you set them up will alter stiff to spongy. Worth a try in my opinion; especially if using for autocross due to budget limits for certain classses.

rotaryjunkee 04-08-14 05:17 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Mounted my guages in the glovebox door for that custom look

Qingdao 04-16-14 09:02 PM


Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee (Post 11340539)
:( well I guess this thread died LOL, no biggie. Ill go ahead and show pics of my 2nd Gen oil cooler install. All you need is a set of 2nd Gen oil cooler hoses, the rear hose doesn't change. But the front hose I had lengthened 12 more inches. You will also need some angle.
The first pic is the left side, the second is of the right. Installing it this way gives you the option of keeping a/c as I did.


Why didn't you just route the short timing cover line below the battery tray?

You don't need to make new lines if you don't go under everything.

I just put an FC FMOC on my 84 with A/C today. Factory lines and all. I mounted it just about where you mounted yours.




EDIT: Oh I see you don't have a banjo fitting on the short line.

rotaryjunkee 04-17-14 07:45 PM


Originally Posted by Qingdao (Post 11719824)
Why didn't you just route the short timing cover line below the battery tray?

You don't need to make new lines if you don't go under everything.

I just put an FC FMOC on my 84 with A/C today. Factory lines and all. I mounted it just about where you mounted yours.




EDIT: Oh I see you don't have a banjo fitting on the short line.

It has the banjo fittings on there, I ended up using the stock oil cooler lines from my 7 that originally came with the beehive setup, and added hose and the 2nd gen banjo fittings onto those lines, ill take pics of it to show you all

Qingdao 04-17-14 08:01 PM

https://www.rx7club.com/members/qing...4549-57652.jpg




12A headers now 13B headers :lol:


I'm a rolling example of NO MONEY/on a budget.

WANKfactor 04-17-14 08:12 PM


Originally Posted by PK_12A (Post 11345770)
How bout my custom stereo suround,
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...20121-1439.jpg
It was all ready cut so I put in a modern stereo and filled the pocket
slot for gauges and added a working temp next to center.

Is that a standard console under the white paint and new stereo? It looks the same as my Aus '85 s3 console.

In particular, what size gauges are they and did you have to massage the pocket slot to get the gauges in?

I'm measuring up to fit 3 52mm (2 5/16") gauges in the same spot (previously oem graphic equaliser) but will have to cut a fair bit off either end.

rotaryjunkee 03-30-15 01:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Finished my alternator adjusting assembly.
Went to the junkyard and got some alternator adjusting bolt parts from 2 vehicles, a 98 altima and a 2000 sportage, spent $2 and now no more prybars to adjust this alt.
Another contribution to the diy mods, next is the gas shock for the hood to raise it up almost hands free

Attachment 556223

Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app

rxtasy3 03-31-15 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by Qingdao (Post 11720519)
https://www.rx7club.com/members/qing...4549-57652.jpg




12A headers now 13B headers :lol:


I'm a rolling example of NO MONEY/on a budget.

nice idea. wouldn't it be better to lengthen one and shorten the other equally?

PK_12A 03-31-15 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by WANKfactor (Post 11720524)

Is that a standard console under the white paint and new stereo? It looks the same as my Aus '85 s3 console.

In particular, what size gauges are they and did you have to massage the pocket slot to get the gauges in?

I'm measuring up to fit 3 52mm (2 5/16") gauges in the same spot (previously oem graphic equaliser) but will have to cut a fair bit off either end.

That is a factory, USDM, S2 surround which I belive is the same as your's and the JDM one for the S2 and 3. USDM got the updated interior for S3. It had been hacked for a 90's cassette deck so I massaged it for a cd player and the gauges are in a piece of 1/8" plexi, glued in with 2 part plastic epoxy and the gauges are Sunpro 1.5"mechanical, no massaging needed, just used a hole saw to make the holes. The epoxy I will also add is great for reinforcing, repairing, and filling hole and small gaps. Painted it with Duplicolor plastic primer and paint, I may change it to a light grey. It was a fun easy mod.

Qingdao 04-02-15 11:05 PM


Originally Posted by rxtasy3 (Post 11893759)
nice idea. wouldn't it be better to lengthen one and shorten the other equally?

Ideally, but this isn't a permanent thing. I just did it to break the fresh rebuild in before boosting on it.

Dis_is_toki 04-03-15 07:51 AM


Originally Posted by PK_12A (Post 11345770)
How bout my custom stereo suround,
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...20121-1439.jpg
It was all ready cut so I put in a modern stereo and filled the pocket
slot for gauges and added a working temp next to center.

I painted mine white also but head unit is down lower, I have pics soon

rotaryjunkee 04-03-15 05:10 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Fabricated and installed a temporary panel for my guages, by temporary meaning dont know if ill be installing a radio or more guages

Attachment 556495

Sent from my gs4 using RX7Club app

BezRx7 04-07-15 07:23 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Used the stock s5 turbo heat shield on my borgwarner s360 turbo. The heat shield usually covers the turbine and manifold. In my case only overs half the turbine housing :D

Attachment 556862

As u can see space is tight

rotaryjunkee 03-05-16 02:15 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ea1bb65652.jpg


My homemade flywheel nut removal tool


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5192771fd3.jpg


Flywheel stopper. (So it doesnt move while removing flywheel nut)


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e93a0bf2b.jpg


Another pic of it installed

erick31876 03-05-16 06:23 PM


Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee (Post 12035509)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ea1bb65652.jpg


My homemade flywheel nut removal tool


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5192771fd3.jpg


Flywheel stopper. (So it doesnt move while removing flywheel nut)


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e93a0bf2b.jpg


Another pic of it installed

That's awesome, a socket made from body shims:icon_tup:

rotaryjunkee 03-05-16 07:54 PM

Both of those tools took hours of development in cad software, 3d printers and r&d for several months before they were given to me for use. Lol

WANKfactor 03-06-16 02:57 AM

^ nice! Ive got a backyard saw-tooth flywheel stop that i made sitting in the garage. Definitely less skill and effort was involved compared to your amazing flywheel socket. I take my hat off to that, thing's a work of art!
Today's bodge job was using a tiny screw, a tiny drill bit, a ground down spade terminal and a gob of solder to bodge a broken-off terminal on my AIT sensor untill a new one comes in.

rotaryjunkee 03-06-16 06:13 AM


Originally Posted by WANKfactor (Post 12035731)
^ nice! Ive got a backyard saw-tooth flywheel stop that i made sitting in the garage. Definitely less skill and effort was involved compared to your amazing flywheel socket. I take my hat off to that, thing's a work of art!
Today's bodge job was using a tiny screw, a tiny drill bit, a ground down spade terminal and a gob of solder to bodge a broken-off terminal on my AIT sensor untill a new one comes in.

You should post some pics. Incase we have to fix the same part, we can use your idea for a repair and the flywheel stop

erick31876 03-06-16 04:41 PM

Modified the turbo inlet duct fory fb turbo2 swap. Had to plug up a couple holes for emissions crap that is no longer there
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b2e3d26e01.jpg


Basically just inserted a large bolt into the larger hole, put on a hose clamp, cut off the head, put some panel bond on the inside of the hole until it was full, and put some on the outside, on the smaller hole i just panel bonded a push in body clip in. Total price, 0.00.

:egrin:

WANKfactor 03-19-16 05:03 AM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee (Post 12035749)
You should post some pics. Incase we have to fix the same part, we can use your idea for a repair and the flywheel stop

Ok, so drilled into the broken terminal and plastic. Tiny screw through a spade terminal and a bit of solder. A bit of plastic broke off the side exposing more of the brass terminal which helped solder it. Worked fine till the new one came in.

Flywheel stop. Cut with a grinder, bolts to the rear iron. Very easy. But yours is better. I wish i thought of that lol. I guess i just saw what scrap was immediately available to work with and that's what I came up with.

And my Idler pully to stop water pump slip and avoid over tensioning belts. Works great but you can see it had a negative effect on the bosch belts. I'm hoping this was due to the "Belt Grip" i was spraying all over them prior to installing the idler. New belts are in, we'll see how they go. If i get the same problem I'll do something else.

WANKfactor 03-26-16 05:00 PM

another one was the coolant level sensor on the radiator. The epoxy seemed to delaminate from the thread on mine and had to destroy it getting it out. To my disillusionment, a replacement was prohibitive in price and for some reason was a 4 month back order from japan so i made my own out of a steel plug, drilled to take a fairly heavy guage wire with shrink wrap and sealed with silicone.
The trick is to fill the cable up with soldier to prevent coolant wicking up and out, to ensure that the exposed tip is the right depth and that everything else is sealed and insulated.
Been in the car for a year with zero problems and it doesnt look silly or anything.

rotaryjunkee 03-28-16 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by WANKfactor (Post 12044010)
another one was the coolant level sensor on the radiator. The epoxy seemed to delaminate from the thread on mine and had to destroy it getting it out. To my disillusionment, a replacement was prohibitive in price and for some reason was a 4 month back order from japan so i made my own out of a steel plug, drilled to take a fairly heavy guage wire with shrink wrap and sealed with silicone.
The trick is to fill the cable up with soldier to prevent coolant wicking up and out, to ensure that the exposed tip is the right depth and that everything else is sealed and insulated.
Been in the car for a year with zero problems and it doesnt look silly or anything.

That sounds great! Do you have any pics by chance?


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