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-   -   '79 SA... My first Old School Ride!!! (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/79-sa-my-first-old-school-ride-1073332/)

Banzai 11-15-14 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by 7aull (Post 11830849)
The rear hatch trim panel is unique to the 78-79 (early) SAs and is pretty near impossible to find in even YOUR SAs condition. I think (and Banzai can step in here with better detail) a light sanding to remove the scratches on the latch cover and a color-respray is going to be your best option.

Isn't the rear hatch trim cover molded with a slight textured finish? You'd probablly lose some of it if you sanded on it. Might try just cleaning and painting it. Probablly wouldn't look any worse. If its too scratched up, put one on your scavenger hunt list. Even a better condition cover in another color could be painted to match.

I consider these plaid interiors a rare and a unique version of the breed. Someday I believe they will be coveted and more desireable.

From the factory, floor mats were not offered but could be bought from the dealer or aftermarket. These were pretty basic back in the day and finding survivors in good condition today is impossibile. Here's a like to some info on some nice matts and even a rear compartment cover. I believe Jason still pokes around on here.

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-ce...up-buy-958363/

Red95FD 12-12-14 09:05 PM

Love this color combo. Just saw one of these on carsforsale.com It has 25K miles and is mint. Only problem, it's an automatic. And they are asking 10K . They were asking 12K. crazy

NCross 12-13-14 12:12 PM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11830825)
7/image8_zpse1ab4511.jpeg[/IMG][/URL]

Would also like to find a replacement piece for the rear hatch latch cover in wine red. If anyone out there has one in VG condition, please PM me with details. Thx

http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/v...s41224cf3.jpeg

Try the heat gun trick. Ive used it with success. Just dont hold the heat over one spot too long.

NCross 12-13-14 12:14 PM


RCCAZ 1 12-13-14 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by NCross (Post 11842346)
Try the heat gun trick. Ive used it with success. Just dont hold the heat over one spot too long.

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot!!!

NCross 12-13-14 05:45 PM

Had to share as these were linked to the other video...
I like the plunger method!


RCCAZ 1 12-14-14 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by Red95FD (Post 11842164)
Love this color combo. Just saw one of these on carsforsale.com It has 25K miles and is mint. Only problem, it's an automatic. And they are asking 10K . They were asking 12K. crazy

Interesting. That low mileage auto is nearly identical to mine, except it was obviously a later in the model year car due to dual mirrors, doors with map pockets, etc. Of note though is the "41" chalk mark on the fan shroud in the engine bay. Mine has the same mark. Anyone know the significance of this mark and number? Was the number applied always "41"? Just curious to know if others have seen and what it means!

Thanks for posting the info. If I had a little more available cash it would be cool to buy that car and have a matching set (auto and 5 speed) :)

j9fd3s 12-16-14 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11842660)
Interesting. That low mileage auto is nearly identical to mine, except it was obviously a later in the model year car due to dual mirrors, doors with map pockets, etc. Of note though is the "41" chalk mark on the fan shroud in the engine bay. Mine has the same mark. Anyone know the significance of this mark and number? Was the number applied always "41"? Just curious to know if others have seen and what it means!

Thanks for posting the info. If I had a little more available cash it would be cool to buy that car and have a matching set (auto and 5 speed) :)

no idea on the meaning, however there are quite a few little paint marks and things like that on these cars, particularly the interior bits.

Mazda does this even with the FC parts

Red95FD 12-16-14 07:10 PM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11842660)
Of note though is the "41" chalk mark on the fan shroud in the engine bay. Mine has the same mark. Anyone know the significance of this mark and number? Was the number applied always "41"? Just curious to know if others have seen and what it means!

Thanks for posting the info. If I had a little more available cash it would be cool to buy that car and have a matching set (auto and 5 speed) :)

Yea that would be dreat to have them both.

The "41" may have been the worker that installed the fan shroud on the assembly line. Or the quality control guy that did the final check on the car. IDK but it's cool all the same.

This thread has awakened a desire in me to find a low mileage SA. I really love the interiors and tail lights and the fact that the first rx7 I ever drove was a red 79 with black and white plaid seats. Wifey says I have to sell one of my cars though.

7aull 12-17-14 04:36 AM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11842431)
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot!!!

Don't forget the carpet and the softer trim around the cover - ALL plastic (yep, even the carpet) and may react more to the heat before you get the results to the cover you want. Bit of a PITA but I think the cover is just clipped to the rest of the panel? Maybe best to separate it for the heat-treatment.
BTW, the heat demo video shows this work on a side molding restoration. For those specifically I have found there are some FABULOUS applications for restoring them.
Specifically:

3400 Urethane Supply Company Bumper & Trim Black 3oz

Urethan Supply Company's "Bumper & Trim BLACK 3400"
It applies like a shoe-polish applicator. Just mask around the trim, clean with alcohol, apply - done. Like NEW! I use it every 2-3 years. Takes about 1/2 a side to do.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

RCCAZ 1 12-17-14 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by 7aull (Post 11843852)
Don't forget the carpet and the softer trim around the cover - ALL plastic (yep, even the carpet) and may react more to the heat before you get the results to the cover you want. Bit of a PITA but I think the cover is just clipped to the rest of the panel? Maybe best to separate it for the heat-treatment.

Thanks Stu. Yea, I pulled it out of the car and tried the "heat treat" method. Although not perfect, it definitely improved the look. I'll take a pic this weekend so you guys can see how it changed the look. Eventually I'd like to find a nice replacement piece.

Hey, they're getting snow in Sedona this morning. Finally, a nice blanket of snow in the AZ high country! You should come down some year for Christmas!! Also, I'm "considering" getting the car repainted at some point in the future, so I've been checking out the Mazdatrix website to see what trim pieces are still available. Noticed that "some" of the body side moldings are NLA. Just curious, would a body shop be able to remove and reapply the side moldings for those that are NLA??

j9fd3s 12-17-14 10:34 AM


Originally Posted by Red95FD (Post 11843705)
The "41" may have been the worker that installed the fan shroud on the assembly line. Or the quality control guy that did the final check on the car. IDK but it's cool all the same.

This thread has awakened a desire in me to find a low mileage SA. I really love the interiors and tail lights and the fact that the first rx7 I ever drove was a red 79 with black and white plaid seats. Wifey says I have to sell one of my cars though.

i've seen different kinds of markings, some times its a date, sometimes its just a mark to denote model (GSL-SE's have a yellow paint mark on the struts, 12A's are orange), and then sometimes its not very clear. maybe we should do a weird Mazda Markings thread?

as for which to sell and which to keep, its pretty easy. the SA is the best, and it goes downhill from there... the SA's are fun and funky, and the FD is pretty but boring.

RCCAZ 1 12-17-14 12:53 PM


Originally Posted by j9fd3s (Post 11843920)
i've seen different kinds of markings, some times its a date, sometimes its just a mark to denote model (GSL-SE's have a yellow paint mark on the struts, 12A's are orange), and then sometimes its not very clear. maybe we should do a weird Mazda Markings thread?

as for which to sell and which to keep, its pretty easy. the SA is the best, and it goes downhill from there... the SA's are fun and funky, and the FD is pretty but boring.

Oh, that's too funny! Yes, they (the SA and FD) are both unique machines. I admire both for their quirks. If faced with having to decide which one to sell, I'd be hard pressed to make the call. Thank goodness my wife is understanding and supportive of my car habit.

Deena 12-17-14 01:11 PM

I have a '79, RX7 too.
 
I have one, too. It's similar to yours, except it's automatic and is in better shape.
It has always been garaged and the original paint job is great.There's no rust. It has 48,800 ish miles on it and all the original parts (not counting batteries, tires, upgraded shocks and such.)I love that car, but never really drive it anymore.
My husband is going to take pictures of it.
I've been having trouble on the site, as I am a luddite as far as technology is concerned. I'd like to sell my RX7, but don't have as many posts as I need and I can't figure out how to do the quizzes or whatever they are to up my count.
I want it to go to someone who will love it.
I'm in the Philadelphia area.
Deena Yachymiak

j9fd3s 12-17-14 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by Deena (Post 11843981)
I have one, too. It's similar to yours, except it's automatic and is in better shape.
It has always been garaged and the original paint job is great.There's no rust. It has 48,800 ish miles on it and all the original parts (not counting batteries, tires, upgraded shocks and such.)I love that car, but never really drive it anymore.
My husband is going to take pictures of it.
I've been having trouble on the site, as I am a luddite as far as technology is concerned. I'd like to sell my RX7, but don't have as many posts as I need and I can't figure out how to do the quizzes or whatever they are to up my count.
I want it to go to someone who will love it.
I'm in the Philadelphia area.
Deena Yachymiak

how many posts do you need? maybe start a tread asking some basic question, like how to set the luggage straps or something, we'll make it long, you pick up posts... piece of cake

7aull 12-20-14 04:35 AM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11843863)
Thanks Stu. Yea, I pulled it out of the car and tried the "heat treat" method. Although not perfect, it definitely improved the look. I'll take a pic this weekend so you guys can see how it changed the look. Eventually I'd like to find a nice replacement piece.

Hey, they're getting snow in Sedona this morning. Finally, a nice blanket of snow in the AZ high country! You should come down some year for Christmas!! Also, I'm "considering" getting the car repainted at some point in the future, so I've been checking out the Mazdatrix website to see what trim pieces are still available. Noticed that "some" of the body side moldings are NLA. Just curious, would a body shop be able to remove and reapply the side moldings for those that are NLA??

_________
Blackdragon Auto still lists the side moldings for sale (tho actually HAVING them could be another matter…):
Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto
If they DO have them and you are serious about the Deep Dive into a repaint, then I would grab them quick! If typical of Mazda, Old Stock parts are just listed and sold till US inventory drys up. These are looong pout of production. As far as using the originals go, I have not tried this personally (since I have spare NOS mldgs) but there are most certainly others here that have reused them. No reason NOT to really. From what I see the trick is to use a heat gun to soften up the adhesive (its a 2-sided strip mounted to the back of the molding) then gently pull away from the body. Secret is not to bend or kink the molding as you peel it away. Door ones are the trickiest because they are so long. It should come off cleanly this way, then use 3Ms dble-sided molding tape to re-apply after the paint. I would personally pull these myself rather than some Shop Jockey. Ideally you would want the repaint to cure (45 days-ish) before re-applying the moldings anyway.

As to the repaint itself, may be worth having a Pro do a proper machine polish and see what pops up first? I mean, your paint looks pretty nice. If there are just certain panels that are a problem, maybe you can get away with just matching up those to a nicely-polished OE paint? I suggest this only because I managed to do this with my SunRise Red. I painted the nose and bumpers, after polishing up the body. the shop matched them nicely.

Sedona snow - YEP! We follow the weather there religiously (since it will be our new home at some point, for LOTS of christmases). Have to Laugh tho - I mean, it lasts, what? a day or 2?? then its 50F or 60F again and everyones out golfing. Honestly, you have no idea what actual winter IS! ;)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

RCCAZ 1 12-20-14 09:14 AM


Originally Posted by 7aull (Post 11845140)
_________
Blackdragon Auto still lists the side moldings for sale (tho actually HAVING them could be another matter…):
Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto
If they DO have them and you are serious about the Deep Dive into a repaint, then I would grab them quick! If typical of Mazda, Old Stock parts are just listed and sold till US inventory drys up. These are looong pout of production. As far as using the originals go, I have not tried this personally (since I have spare NOS mldgs) but there are most certainly others here that have reused them. No reason NOT to really. From what I see the trick is to use a heat gun to soften up the adhesive (its a 2-sided strip mounted to the back of the molding) then gently pull away from the body. Secret is not to bend or kink the molding as you peel it away. Door ones are the trickiest because they are so long. It should come off cleanly this way, then use 3Ms dble-sided molding tape to re-apply after the paint. I would personally pull these myself rather than some Shop Jockey. Ideally you would want the repaint to cure (45 days-ish) before re-applying the moldings anyway.

As to the repaint itself, may be worth having a Pro do a proper machine polish and see what pops up first? I mean, your paint looks pretty nice. If there are just certain panels that are a problem, maybe you can get away with just matching up those to a nicely-polished OE paint? I suggest this only because I managed to do this with my SunRise Red. I painted the nose and bumpers, after polishing up the body. the shop matched them nicely.

Sedona snow - YEP! We follow the weather there religiously (since it will be our new home at some point, for LOTS of christmases). Have to Laugh tho - I mean, it lasts, what? a day or 2?? then its 50F or 60F again and everyones out golfing. Honestly, you have no idea what actual winter IS! ;)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Stu... thanks for the black dragon link. I've looked over some of their items in the past, but never took them seriously. I guess I may need to reassess. How do their prices compare to Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda? He's always been my go-to parts guy for FD OE parts.

Paintwise, you'd have to see the car in person to understand. While some panels are VERY nice and show little fading, on others (especially the rear deck and roof) the clear coat is nearly gone. I agree on your suggestion to get a detailing PRO to look her over and give me an honest assessment before proceeding.

Your statement about Sedona is spot on. Occasional "photo-op" days this time of year, but in a day or less it's usually gone. Still, makes for some beautiful mornings. I spent the first 26 years of my life in Minnesota, so I'm no stranger to snow and cold (hence the reason I now live in AZ) :) Take care, and stay warm over this Holiday Season! Thanks again for your guidance!

Tim

RCCAZ 1 12-20-14 09:29 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Wanted to show NCross how my rear hatch release cover came out post heat-treat. Definitely better than before....

Before:

Attachment 633870

After:

Attachment 633871

Thanks for the suggestion!

NCross 12-20-14 01:59 PM

Quite an improvement!

Red95FD 12-20-14 08:55 PM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11843976)
Oh, that's too funny! Yes, they (the SA and FD) are both unique machines. I admire both for their quirks. If faced with having to decide which one to sell, I'd be hard pressed to make the call. Thank goodness my wife is understanding and supportive of my car habit.

Luckily I have one hell of an FC to sell so I will not be selling the FD anytime soon.

Redliner223 12-27-14 02:55 PM

RCCAZ Can you post more picture of the red interior?
My rear carpet was changed to black and some parts are faded and I'm trying to compile some reference material.

RCCAZ 1 12-30-14 07:59 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Redliner223 (Post 11847775)
RCCAZ Can you post more picture of the red interior?
My rear carpet was changed to black and some parts are faded and I'm trying to compile some reference material.

Sorry the quality of most of these pics is not better. Struggled with taking these yesterday outside in full daylight. As you can see, my hatch carpeting is severely sun faded from where the original owner left the sun roof cover permanently in place. Side panels are somewhat faded, but in great condition. And finally, a shot of her outside with her new painted waffle centercaps!

Oh, for others, does anyone know where one might source some "wine" or red interior screw caps? A few of mine are missing. I'm guessing that I should just add it to my list of "treasure hunt" items??

Attachment 633556

Attachment 633557

Attachment 633559

http://i684.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps1dc95edf.jpg

Attachment 633563

j9fd3s 12-31-14 02:29 PM

car looks great! i really like the color too.

the screw caps were used from 79-85, although the colors change, so if you're willing to dye one, used should be pretty easy to come by.

or the cheapskate (me!) would look behind the panels, and under the carpet, the missing one is probably still in the car somewhere

RCCAZ 1 01-25-15 10:16 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Just working details in the engine bay for now. Got these pieces back from the powdercoater last night. Semi-gloss black.

Attachment 631759

woodmv 01-25-15 11:01 AM

Looks good. I really like the semi-gloss...

chris_g 01-26-15 01:26 PM

Beautiful. That's all I can really say about it.

RCCAZ 1 01-27-15 07:01 AM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by woodmv (Post 11860725)
Looks good. I really like the semi-gloss...


Originally Posted by chris_g (Post 11861307)
Beautiful. That's all I can really say about it.

Guys, thanks! Here's a couple pics of the new parts installed along with the alternator cleaned up as best I can and the overflow bottle removed, cleaned out and reinstalled. Love that apple cider vinegar for rusty bolt cleanup!! Also degreased most of the firewall. Slowly getting there!

Attachment 631630

Attachment 631631

RCCAZ 1 02-18-15 08:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Question.....

Were the '79 buckets with round headrest a Japaneses market option only? Also, was the Green Savanna color in 1978-79 ever available in the U.S.?

Attachment 630197

NCross 02-18-15 09:10 PM

The seats are referred to as Loback seats. Not sure on the SA, but FB had them offered in the US. I have a black pair in my 80 from I think an 83.

Banzai 02-19-15 06:24 AM

The JDM cars had lots of available parts and options not originally offered on North American cars, but which eventually trickled over to some of our later versions. Items like stereo's, wheels, seats and trim.

Mach Green was a color which Mazda used in its launch advertising. It was not ever officially offered as a NA color. For 79, we got Sunbeam Silver, Aurora White, Sunrise Red, Spark Yellow and Daytona Blue. You can add Beat Black too, but only for the 79 Limited model, which also got some of the aforementioned JDM stereo equipment and wheels.

RCCAZ 1 02-19-15 12:43 PM


Originally Posted by Banzai (Post 11873058)
The JDM cars had lots of available parts and options not originally offered on North American cars, but which eventually trickled over to some of our later versions. Items like stereo's, wheels, seats and trim.

Mach Green was a color which Mazda used in its launch advertising. It was not ever officially offered as a NA color. For 79, we got Sunbeam Silver, Aurora White, Sunrise Red, Spark Yellow and Daytona Blue. You can add Beat Black too, but only for the 79 Limited model, which also got some of the aforementioned JDM stereo equipment and wheels.

For '79 don't forget Sonic Bronze Metallic :).

Banzai 02-20-15 06:16 AM

Yea, I did actually realize later that I left off the most important one!

woodmv 03-11-15 12:01 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I had the sheer joy of meeting Tim today and seeing this amazing original survivor car in person. Let me say: it. Is. SPECTACULAR! The car is truly an amazing car and it was meant to be in Tim's hands!

THANK you Tim for meeting with me and showing off your car!



Attachment 554783

t_g_farrell 03-11-15 09:31 AM

Is Tim on here somewhere? He should be. I think he would be grandfathered into the OGTA but
I'll leave that determination to Ray Green.

Nice plaid seats!

RCCAZ 1 03-11-15 03:24 PM


Originally Posted by woodmv (Post 11882895)
I had the sheer joy of meeting Tim today and seeing this amazing original survivor car in person. Let me say: it. Is. SPECTACULAR! The car is truly an amazing car and it was meant to be in Tim's hands!

THANK you Tim for meeting with me and showing off your car!



Attachment 554783

Guys, it's ME (RCCAZ 1). Had a great time hanging with Mike and talking SAs. He's a treasure-trove of info, and a flat-out great guy who shares our passion. I'm so glad that he reached out to me on his business trip and took some time to meet up and talk cars! Again Mike, thanks!

RCCAZ 1 03-11-15 03:26 PM

BTW, Ray has already "granted" me OGTA status, pending pics of the girls at our local Tilted Kilt posing with my "tartan" clad Sonic Bronze classic :)

woodmv 03-11-15 04:08 PM


Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11883243)
BTW, Ray has already "granted" me OGTA status, pending pics of the girls at our local Tilted Kilt posing with my "tartan" clad Sonic Bronze classic :)

That I'd like to see! My first (and LAST) time in a Tilted Kilt resulted in a trip to the dog house from the missus....

woodmv 03-12-15 07:39 AM

Tim, you had asked about cleaning your waffles. Here's the thread I mentioned:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...refurb-771611/

t_g_farrell 03-12-15 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by woodmv (Post 11883530)
Tim, you had asked about cleaning your waffles. Here's the thread I mentioned:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...refurb-771611/

Your welcome! :lol:

If you have any questions post them up in that thread or IM me.

RCCAZ 1 03-12-15 03:13 PM


Originally Posted by t_g_farrell (Post 11883539)
Your welcome! :lol:

If you have any questions post them up in that thread or IM me.

Hey Tim (t_g farrell), great name BTW ;)

Yes, I will post up some pics and questions tonight. I'm trying to understand how to clean up some "nasty" wheel weight corrosion on my waffle lips, where it appears that they repositioned wheel weights, but the corrosion and pitting remain. Not sure if this will "clean up" or if the lips will need reconditioning. I'll post up pics later to give you and idea.

RCCAZ 1 03-13-15 09:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Guys, here's the "corrosion" from the lead wheel weight that I was mentioning. I've tried several cleaners to remove this including Simple Green. Any other ideas? Haven't tried "Easy Off" yet.

On a side note, was tan interior offered on U.S. spec '79s and '80s? If so, could you get that interior color with any exterior color, or was it only certain ones? Just curious! Thanks for the feedback on either topic!!

Attachment 628939

NCross 03-14-15 09:15 AM

Steel wool. Nothing will get that off short of resurfacing it.

Banzai 03-14-15 05:59 PM

Thats disimillar material coorosion. Happens when you mount things like lead against the aluminum rim

RCCAZ 1 03-14-15 08:31 PM


Originally Posted by NCross (Post 11884580)
Steel wool. Nothing will get that off short of resurfacing it.


Originally Posted by Banzai (Post 11884848)
Thats disimillar material coorosion. Happens when you mount things like lead against the aluminum rim

Thanks guys. Yea, I think the only way to truly clean it up is to have the rim lips refinished by a professional wheel shop.

How about my question about Tan SA interiors? Were tan dashes and door panels offered in either 79 or 80.

NCross 03-15-15 10:54 AM

I dont know about tan, but I have seen brown on the Spark Yellow and Mach Green cars.

NCross 03-15-15 10:59 AM

[IMG]http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/04/former_0034s.jpg[IMG]

http://www.2040-cars.com/_content/ca...571553/002.jpg

NCross 03-15-15 11:00 AM

http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/...rmer_0034s.jpg

NCross 03-15-15 11:02 AM

And Solar Gold...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...Picture+11.png

RCCAZ 1 03-15-15 11:19 AM

Thanks NCross. Yes, hoping to someday do a Mach Green recreation in left hand drive. Just trying to understand what pieces I'd need to make that happen. Looks like using a Spark Yellow donor car with clean interior would be a good starting point. Then, seats out of an 82, recovered in tan plaid fabric. Then, right color code for the green, correct wheels, some fender mirrors....

Anyone aware if anybody stateside has attempted such a build?

Banzai 03-15-15 11:46 AM

5 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1 (Post 11884885)
Thanks guys. Yea, I think the only way to truly clean it up is to have the rim lips refinished by a professional wheel shop.

Or.....you can put some elbow grease into it. Some guys like to clean and paint the rims, I perfer to clean and polish them. I clean them by a combination of wheel etch cleaner and bead blasting. (the blast is for heavily brake dust stained and dirty rims. It helps to have a blast cabinent in my gargae too)

Any road rash on the outer rim can be dressed down in this cleaning phase by hand fileing and blending with a mill smooth file. After a couple rounds of alternating etch cleaning and blasting, get out the fine emery paper, crocus cloth and steel wool. Some Never Dull and a good metal polish compound like Simichrome are must have's as well. I polish both the outer rim and center cap hole. I clean it here with normal wheel cleaner as the etching stuff will dull all your hard work. Its a labor intensive process but yields a nice result. I've devoleped a bit of a perferred process after about 8 or 9 sets of rims but am always doing it a little different. Their is no exact right way.


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