(FUEL/INTAKE) carb crap...tearing it apart
 

Ok so Im rebuilding my carb next week...got my hygrade kit enroute, and I have pulled my carb, and read over Sterling's words of wisdom on what to look for and basic ideas on how to rebuild the nikki. But I have one question. there is so much extra emissions crap that is on the carb. I already pulled the rats nest. What all can I leave off the carb? I never use my cruise so i figure i can pull that stuff too. I couldnt find anything specific along these lines, any help would be appreciated. THanks!
its quite dirty!
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../injectors.jpg
that and my secondaries haven't opened for ohhhh id say 2 years. uugghh.

Can anyone point out what I can leave off the carb when I rebuild it? I mean, all those little pump things and stuff, there has got to be some things that I can take off, to clean up the engine bay.

This is in the 1st gen archive: LITTLE CAT's MAZDA MANUALS It won't tell you what to pull specificly emissions wise but it helped me IMMENSLY doing my carb over. Maybe u can figure it out yourself if you have the time to sit down and read everything over since it does go over theory and how each component works...

You can remove everything that goes into the carb except:

oil metering lines
fuel lines
and vacuum advance that goes into the carb plate (you really can remove this too but not neceessary)

Then just plug, cap, seal everything else that goes into the carb. make the carb vacuum tight. no leaks

doesn't templeton require smog check too?

Also don't remove the choke if you see colder temperatures... What a biatch' to get started without one in the cold.

Take pictures and write notes per every 4 or 5 steps. You'll be glad you did.

I photocopied the Nikki assembly drawings, and used large zip lock bags, placing an assembly / dissassemby drawing in each bag. As I disassembled, I placed the components into the ziplock bags and used a high-lighter pen to identify each component on the drawing per each ziplock bag. Basically, each ziplock bag = specific steps as identified in the Nikki Carb Manual. Keep all the bags in order as you disassemble; then, you can simply use the bag-system in reverse to reassemble; each bag with the component and assembly drawing being "highlighted" on the assembly drawing to show you how it fits back.

I used a $20 card table, in my garage, with a new white tablecloth to disassemble so as not to lose anything.

Some may think this to be extreme, but keeping organized will greatly help.

and when re-assembling: the gasket between the throttle body and the venturi body is ALMOST PERFECTLY symmetrical, except for a little extrusion that seals the vac line to the secondary actuator. install this gasket upside down and the secondaries wont work. the good news is that if you fuck it up, its an easy fix (about an hour)

Gawd, do I have to answer this question EVERY WEEK?

*sigh*

- Dashpot
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Choke Assembly (leave the fast idle rod and the part that connects to the cable, chuck everything else)
- Throttle Opener (I don't even know why 90% of FBs have them when they don't have A/C or cruise)
- Anti-Afterburn Valve
- You can remove Vac Secondaries box if you're doing the mechanical secondaries mod that sterling wrote up. Otherwise leave it intact
- You can remoive the Altitude Compensator if you can find a way to properly block the holes and you don't drive at many different altitudes

Should be it.

Jon

As for assembly tips:

I do my assembly/dissasembly on a giant piece of white bristol-board. Using the carb manual posted at the link above as a guide, I do each step one at a time. As I remove something, I write on the bristol board with a pen and lay the parts next to what I wrote.

So as I continue, the board looks like a display poster of nikki parts, all labled with their step and description. I take lots of pictures.

I keep printed copies of all three parts-layout diagrams with their associated lists in plastic sleeves nearby so I can identify parts that I don't know.

A container of cleaning solution is manditory. Make sure there's good ventilation but not good enough that there's wind to blow stuff around.

Patience. The round-headed screws that use a phillips screw driver are sometimes stuck in there really well. If Liquid Wrench doesn't work (which you should always have) then I found that a pair of vice grips usually can grip the head of the screw and get it out. Be forceful but gentle, you don't want to break anything.

Have the carb sitting on a brick, with a couple of shop towels to keep the bottom from getting scratched. You want it on the brick so that the linkages aren't resting on anything when you put force downwards with your screwdriver.

The manual steps aren't perfect. For example, they never tell you to take that stud out of the middle of the carburetor. It's kinda obvious when you have to do it, but I just thought I'd warn you that a few small things are either missing or in an order that doesn't make as much sense.

The jets and air bleeds can be killer, but easy enough if you take the right approach. I printed out the page that has the top-view of the carb listing all the jets and placed each on onto the sheet as I took them out.

There are only two checkballs. People often think they've misplaced one. There are three weights though. I *did* misplace one of those. Imagine my surprise when I had the whole thing reassembled and found a weight just sitting on the table. It was still beside it's step number, so I knew where it went back but still!

Strip the un-necessary crap off first, then ignore the steps that refer to them later. It makes it much easier to look at the carb as being three big pieces, a few screws and nicknacks rather than a bagfull of useless emissions crap with a carb in there somewhere.

If you need any help, post.

Jon