(ELECTRICAL) Install a Universal Power Door Lock Kit
 

Alright, if anyone is wanting to install a Universal Power Door Lock Kit into their 7, but is afraid of getting stuck, I've compiled this How-To guide to make things easier. I'll try to make this as detailed as possible so that you can get as clean an install like I did with mine.

Below, you'll find the photos in order since I do not have a storage space to direct link them. You can click on them one by one to see the progress. Even tho I can only show 5 pictures, I've done my best to merge some to make it easier to see. I hope that they can still be figured out. I apologize if they appear fuzzy or hard to tell what is in the picture.

First, is a list of what you'll need to complete the install.

Universal Power Door Lock Kit. Enough said, you can get these anywhere. I was going to buy the kit from Autoloc ($125.99 plus s/h, average total of $150) but their server was down on the weekend (probably because they're closed on the weekends :balls: ), so I went to Black Dragon Auto ($79.95 plus s/h, roughly $100 after). Now, the Autoloc one, while expensive, allows for add-ons and the like (starter kill, alarm, other kits from them, etc..) , for those of you that want that ability later on. For those that are just interested in unlocking the doors, nothing more and could care less of having the ability to upgrade, then Black Dragon Auto will do you just fine, if you want.

5/64 Alan wrench.

Power drill with a 3/16 drill bit.

Thread-locker.

Dielectric tune-up grease.

1 16-gauge female spade connector.

1 Fuse-Tap connector.

Soldering iron (Optional).

Wire cutters/crimpers.

Dremel tool with cutoff wheel.

Scissors

Zip ties

Wire tubing or spiral tubing

Double-sided tape


Step 1: I'll start with the Driver's Side. All steps can be applied to the Passenger's Side. Really simple step, remove the door panel and make sure your windows are rolled up. Peel back the plastic sheet (if your door has it) so that you can gain access into the door. Also, make sure both door locks are in the locked position, same with the position of the door actuators (compressed).

Step 2: Refer to Figure 1A to give you a better idea. As you can tell from the additional hole, I went through some trial and error before finding the right spot to place the motor actuator. The top hole is 2 3/4 away from the upper edge of the indent in the door. I didn't measure how far below but it's about an inch. Drill one (1) hole [where the top screw is at] with the 3/16 drill bit.

Step 3: Refer to Figure 1A for this step, as well. Drill one (1) hole into the lower left (lower right on Passenger's side) "pocket" of the factory hole directly below the hole you just made. Make sure that the hole's edge will be aligned with the "pocket's" edge. The picture will show you what I'm talking about, this is crucial for being able to set the second screw into the bottom hole of the actuator.

Step 4: Insert the door actuator into the door with the motor stem facing towards the car. You can then go ahead and hold up the actuator rod to align it with the door lock handle to figure out how much you'll be needing. (Figure 2A)

Step 5: You'll need to cut off a portion of the actuator rod to make it fit properly inside the door. Measure 4 7/8 from the end of the rod (not with the bent end) and cut that portion off. This will give you plenty of room inside the door to align it with the door lock rod. (Figure 2B)

Step 6: (Figure 2B) Align the two rods with the bridge-block, then apply some threadlocker to the Alan screws and insert them into the block. You may need to ensure that the screws going onto the door lock rod are actually coming in contact with it. You can verify this by moving the bridge-block a bit to see if either of the rods slide inside it.

Step 7: Pop the rubber grommet found inside the door jambs out (Figure 3A & 3B). The second rubber grommet can be accessed when you remove the front speaker and panel (Figure 3C). Cut a decent sized slit in the INNER portion of the grommets (Figure 3A & 3B) to allow the wires to pass into the door and door jamb (Figure 3D) like the stock wiring for the windows (if so equipped).

Step 8: Route the wires through the bottom of the door, to avoid coming in contact with the window regulator, and to the wire connections from the actuator (Figure 4A). Be sure to apply dielectric grease to all connections.

Step 9: Take either some wire tubing or spiral tubing and wrap it around the wires going through the door jambs to protect them from the elements. Followed that up by placing a zip tie around it and the stock wiring (Figure 4B).

Step 10: Begin to route the wires in the harness in a manner where it won't be in the way of anything else, namely your feet. I found the best way was to route the wire behind the speaker panels, under the carpet, and behind the center console. Sorry, no picture to show this. The Power Wire can be tapped into a fuse in the fuse block with a Fuse-Tap connector and female spade connector (Figure 5A). The Ground Wire will already have a terminal on its end where you can easily place it behind the left or right bolt holding the accelerator pedal against the firewall (Figure 5B).

Step 11: Put double-sided tape onto the back end of the control module and place it against the firewall (Figure 5B). I used a zip tie to hold the fuse holder closer to the module and away from the gas pedal.

Step 12: The only other wires you can route to the other wide would be the two leading to the Passenger's side. Installation is the same as the Driver's side.


Hope this will help anyone wanting to go with power door locks. :)

Sticky/Archive!

I will more than likely being doing this in the not so far future.

Thanks!

FYI, this kit has the autoloc actuators and is $35 + shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Remot...33538452QQrdZ1

Nice write up, the install is pretty straight forward!

Actually if there's a princess auto near you they're usually around 20$ CA for both they also have a website. which i think you can order from there.

http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountr...Y=CAN&INF=home

For door lock actuators I would trust autoloc anyday over princess auto though. Also the autoloc actuators have a lifetime warrenty.

Thanks for the write up, I'll be doing this soon as well. Got the same kit from BD last week.

I saw the same kit on eBay but wasn't ready to trust the quality of the parts, for such a cheap price.

AWESOME Write UP!!!! I will be doing this asap!

Thanks for the compliments, guys. Maybe this post'll be lucky enough to be posted into the archive section, providing vipernicus agrees to it.

I did this on mine. It only takes about an hour a door, but only after you figure out the first door. Good luck all. P.S. I picked up my door lock actuators from Partsexpress.com. Make sure you buy the heavy duty and not light duty ones. They've been in for almost two years with no issues.

It took me almost all day, sadly, from 11:30 until around 6 I think. But, that was due to more time being spent figuring out where to put the actuator, and then routing the wire all under the carpet and behind the door panels that I think took me the longest. But, at least it was worth it. Now, I think if I were to do it on another car, it wouldn't take me as long.

I have to edit mine. I had already previous installed an alarm and my actuators where in addition to it, so this is the reason for the short install time.

85 FB,

Great write-up! Very easy to follow. I printed it off and added it to my HUGE folder of "How To's".

Thanks,

DD

2 vs 5 wire systems
 

I did this today and found quite simple. I got a five wire system from Protocol. Not very expensive and works great. The advantage is that the system is triggered by moving the lock button up and down or by using the key. Essentially the actuator doubles as a sensor to trigger the locking/unlocking action. I would therefore recommend finding a five wire system if you're going through the trouble of doing this upgrade.

I'm probably going to use one of our Guardian Alarm Systems from work later down the line, but what I would really like is to have a trunk button set-up so I can pop the hatch like I do with the glass on my '93 S10 Blazer.

Wow, thanks for finding this thread JG Descoteaux. I just bought a keyless entry system, and will probably install it on my SA sometime this spring. I've never installed one, but this will make it alot easier.

Two words: Hells yes!

I'm not sure how this slipped by the first time. Going into the archive now!

Maybe I'll do this while the car's apart for paint :)