At what point did you decide to go LS1?
02-01-10, 02:54 AM
#27
I said what I said because not everyone does the swap for thrift reasons. A rotory guy arguing with an ls swapper is equivalent to an Ls guy arguing with a Big block chevy guy about how much power the powerplants can make. At the end of the day the Big block will make more power without leaning on it as hard because it is Bigger!!!
Dude, go LS1. end your troubles and go with an engine more reliable with better modding possibilities. sucks having a car your scared to drive because you know something will go wrong.
Now what i think you could compare displacement and 1/4 time (I assume thats your game).
I'd like to see you run a 2.6l engine and reach the same goals (power & torque & 1/4 time, weight,etc etc etc) as a 26B/4rotor engine.
I'm not suggesting that the 26B is a better engine at all - I'm merely saying that the number of high powered rotary engines is NOT as large as the reciprocating motors due to mass-production. wouldnt you agree?
02-01-10, 02:43 PM
#28
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Dude, go LS1. end your troubles and go with an engine more reliable with better modding possibilities. sucks having a car your scared to drive because you know something will go wrong.
The "swap" arguement has been thrashed to death on this site, but your post was absolutely a nonsensical falsehood.
02-01-10, 07:55 PM
#29
When people lose their ***** 
. Sell the car and buy a mustang or corvette. No offense but it seems like the individuals that have the most trouble with these cars (or any car for that matter) is the result of the owner. It's kind of like when someone owns a disobedient dog or child...it's a reflection of the owner/parent.er mileage well kept FD. Or have a respectable shop such as IRP build your motor. Most people buy these cars with a motor built be Joe Smoe no name BS shop and wonder why the motor fails after 5,000 miles. It's hard to come by a shop that's a 100% competent when building these motors or working on these cars...sad but true.
. Sell the car and buy a mustang or corvette. No offense but it seems like the individuals that have the most trouble with these cars (or any car for that matter) is the result of the owner. It's kind of like when someone owns a disobedient dog or child...it's a reflection of the owner/parent.er mileage well kept FD. Or have a respectable shop such as IRP build your motor. Most people buy these cars with a motor built be Joe Smoe no name BS shop and wonder why the motor fails after 5,000 miles. It's hard to come by a shop that's a 100% competent when building these motors or working on these cars...sad but true.First, I'm an Aerospace Engineer that has specialized in propulsion and mechanical aircraft systems and have worked for Cessna and Piper in those capacities.
Second, my RX7 is not my first sports car. I have owned, autocrossed, and owner modified (i.e. turned the wrench myself) several sports cars both foreign and domestic. My elderly 87' 944 Turbo was one of my favorites.
Third, when an apex seal went, I pulled the motor and drove it to Fighters Garage where the engine was rebuilt by them and Dale Clark. I think this should cover any questions about "my shop".
Fourth, this is not a crazy modified car. It is all stock except that Fighters Garage and Dale street ported the engine during the rebuild, I installed a set of BNR Stage III's, and I recently installed a Profect B Spec II boost controller to ensure the car stays at a healthy 10psi while under the control of the stock ECU.
There has also been discussion suggesting my thread is the result of my cutting corners. All of my replacement parts have come from Ray at Malloy Mazda save for a used rats nest I recently purchased in hopes of finding some good solenoids for a rainy day and a new Supra TT fuel pump just received from RX7store.com.
As one poster suggested, yes, my car is plagued with an electrical issue that is not simply remedied with a codes return from the ECU or just referring to the FSM for guidance. I'm someone that argues for keeping the rotary engine. I want to keep it that way but some cars have issues that fall outside the bell curve of common problems and one starts to question what possible alternatives may exist. I am constantly seeking the guidance of the moderators and searching previous threads for a direction that may lead me to the "fix".
Needless to say, with all of the problems, this is my favorite car.
02-02-10, 12:30 AM
#30
whats a Turbo V?
now i'm not going LSx i'm actually going Volvo B5234FT(T5). but for me the thing that sent me over the edge wasn't the rotary engine realy more the transmissions. (note never had a ribcage.) i bought my first RX-7 awhile back. she was a N/A Slushbox. i spent way to mouch time and energy making her a manual and one day 11/13/2009 her rear rotor let go. so in about a week i had gotten a 1986 base with a atkins rebiuld(45,000 miles) which i drop for alittle over a month before the ECU **** out on me. at this point i had gotten a free B5234S(the N/A version of volvos T5) and decided that i would strip my 90 of its good bits and put them in mu 86 which had a cleaner chassis with a motor that i realy love. and a transmission that will last forever(T56 anyone lol)
02-02-10, 01:22 PM
#31
The short of it is it WILL cost you more money to do an LS1 swap than it will to rebuild your rotary. A stock (350 HP) LS1 vs. a 350 HP rotary, the rotary setup will cost less, especially when you have nearly all the parts. At equal HP output, the V8 will typically be a little quicker because of the torque. The rotary will have some more headroom RPM wise.
If you want to start getting silly, either motor can serve you well, and both can thoroughly bankrupt you if you let them. Some people prefer the rotary, others the V8. It's no different than Chevy vs. Ford. Each side has it's stalwarts.
02-02-10, 04:03 PM
#33
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haha... well played. That was a deciding factor for me, for sure. I actually spent enough on my LS swap to pay for TWO very reputably rebuilds and tunes... but then again, I still haven't finished selling all my old 13B components yet to make some of that back. My trade-off for two more rebuilds (and the inevitable down time for each, plus transportation costs to a reputable shop) was an LS2 w/ T56 with 37,000 miles including all accessories that dyno'd in the car at 383 HP with nothing more than long tube headers over stock that will likely last me well over 100,000 more miles. Hell, I'll probably crash the car before the engine gives out 
... the other day I was in third, going about 40, reached back to pull my wallet out of my back pocket and as I dropped back down to readjust, accidentally dropped the accelerator a bit too far and was immediately sideways... it definitely takes some getting used to over what I had before.
... the other day I was in third, going about 40, reached back to pull my wallet out of my back pocket and as I dropped back down to readjust, accidentally dropped the accelerator a bit too far and was immediately sideways... it definitely takes some getting used to over what I had before.
02-03-10, 05:11 PM
#35
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both motors ahve their pros and cons. it really comes down to taste. i love my ls1 way more then i ever loved the rotary. not to bash rotary but i like getting into my car drive cross country knowing i wont have any problems, plus the sound and looks you get are to die for
. i wont lie unless you do all the work yourself on the swap it will run you a pretty penny. you don't lose anything and you keep the 50/50 weight of the car. Hinson is kinda a pain to work with as they took 10 months to send me my install kit. you need to ride in a ls1/ls2 rx7 and you will know wether its time to swap or not.
. i wont lie unless you do all the work yourself on the swap it will run you a pretty penny. you don't lose anything and you keep the 50/50 weight of the car. Hinson is kinda a pain to work with as they took 10 months to send me my install kit. you need to ride in a ls1/ls2 rx7 and you will know wether its time to swap or not.
02-04-10, 01:41 AM
#36
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umm. No. You might be able to build the engine (with power adders) for near that price, but you're ignoring transmission, suspension, and the 10,000 other things that are needed for those types of times. And 8's with 900 hp? Not likely. Do you have any examples of the 24 mpg getting, a/c having, 8 second running 10k dollar lsx motors?
The short of it is it will cost you more money to do an ls1 swap than it will to rebuild your rotary. A stock (350 hp) ls1 vs. A 350 hp rotary, the rotary setup will cost less, especially when you have nearly all the parts. At equal hp output, the v8 will typically be a little quicker because of the torque. The rotary will have some more headroom rpm wise.
If you want to start getting silly, either motor can serve you well, and both can thoroughly bankrupt you if you let them. Some people prefer the rotary, others the v8. It's no different than chevy vs. Ford. Each side has it's stalwarts.
The short of it is it will cost you more money to do an ls1 swap than it will to rebuild your rotary. A stock (350 hp) ls1 vs. A 350 hp rotary, the rotary setup will cost less, especially when you have nearly all the parts. At equal hp output, the v8 will typically be a little quicker because of the torque. The rotary will have some more headroom rpm wise.
If you want to start getting silly, either motor can serve you well, and both can thoroughly bankrupt you if you let them. Some people prefer the rotary, others the v8. It's no different than chevy vs. Ford. Each side has it's stalwarts.
dude its a example i said it in my post,,,jeez
02-04-10, 11:19 AM
#37
Your example has absolutely no basis in fact. What's the point of making an example if it's entirely untrue? You just made up numbers and facts and stated them. You can absolutely have a streetable 10 second rotary, a friend of mine has one. You cannot come close to building an 8 second LS motor/setup for 10k dollars. You can build a streetable 10 second rotary for the same money or less than a 10 second LS. How do I know these things? Actual experience.
"THIS IS AN EXAMPLE"
I put red bull in my tank and now my car can fly.
Get the point?
"THIS IS AN EXAMPLE"
I put red bull in my tank and now my car can fly.
Get the point?
06-10-10, 09:35 PM
#39
I think most on here have a breaking point and it seems when some break they sell the car to another rotary enthusiast or they go V8. Personally I don't think I could ever put a V8 in mine. It is really a part of why I like the car so very much. Like posted above, if I wanted a V8 I would have purchased a vette. I grew up all around vettes, and I love em. But I did not purchase one b/c I wanted something different.
I think after a few motors in a short period of time would drive most on here to ask the same question you are asking. V8 or give up and sell it?? That is the question. Really if you lived somewhere it was difficult to get help or a good motor built or a good tune it would make that decision easier. BUT you live in an area known for having reliable options for both (FL). If you keep having problems then I would just get the car to someone experienced, have them fix it (cheaper than a V8 swap) and then just maintain the car and have fun driving it. If a roatary is set up correctly and maintained properly, you should be able to beat on in for years.
I keep hearing wonderful things from DavidHayes here on this board about a shop in Orlando. No matter where you live in FL, Orlando should not be much more than 4hrs away. Contact david and get the name of the shop. The shop also does engine conversions so maybe you can discuss that with them as well.
For the record I think you should stick it out with the rotary, or buy yourself a great little vette.
I think after a few motors in a short period of time would drive most on here to ask the same question you are asking. V8 or give up and sell it?? That is the question. Really if you lived somewhere it was difficult to get help or a good motor built or a good tune it would make that decision easier. BUT you live in an area known for having reliable options for both (FL). If you keep having problems then I would just get the car to someone experienced, have them fix it (cheaper than a V8 swap) and then just maintain the car and have fun driving it. If a roatary is set up correctly and maintained properly, you should be able to beat on in for years.
I keep hearing wonderful things from DavidHayes here on this board about a shop in Orlando. No matter where you live in FL, Orlando should not be much more than 4hrs away. Contact david and get the name of the shop. The shop also does engine conversions so maybe you can discuss that with them as well.
For the record I think you should stick it out with the rotary, or buy yourself a great little vette.
I LOVE rotaries but YOU CANT beat how a 5.7 litre breathes EASY at 400 hp compared to a 1.3 litre screaming at the top of its lungs.
I rebuild and test Pratt and Whitney F-100 220E Turbine Engines that produce 29,000 lbs of thrust and they still manage to reliably operate because of the ENGINEERING designed for that power output. Simply put.. rotaries were not engineered for high power output. YES, some run at this power output for some time BUT they have 1 parameter go even slightly out of limits and POP. V8's are VERY forgiving. Bittersweet truth--- HENCE why people go LSx swaps. -You cant BEAT the curb weight of our RX-7's but you can beat the motor.
06-11-10, 04:41 PM
#40
I apollogize......I meant to Quote the one below. My commentary is for this post(underlined in red) not oo7arkman's post. His is actually very correct lol.
When people lose their ***** . Sell the car and buy a mustang or corvette. No offense but it seems like the individuals that have the most trouble with these cars (or any car for that matter) is the result of the owner. It's kind of like when someone owns a disobedient dog or child...it's a reflection of the owner/parent.
Maybe you bought the car like this, well then sell it and buy a lower mileage well kept FD. Or have a respectable shop such as IRP build your motor. Most people buy these cars with a motor built be Joe Smoe no name BS shop and wonder why the motor fails after 5,000 miles. It's hard to come by a shop that's a 100% competent when building these motors or working on these cars...sad but true.
Fact is this car is a sports car and will take a certain amount of money to maintain and or upkeep. These cars are 13-15 years old. Regardless of what the car is, at that age it will need financial TLC.
I suggest you analyze your financial situation and read this in its entirety:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
Good luck
. Sell the car and buy a mustang or corvette. No offense but it seems like the individuals that have the most trouble with these cars (or any car for that matter) is the result of the owner. It's kind of like when someone owns a disobedient dog or child...it's a reflection of the owner/parent.Maybe you bought the car like this, well then sell it and buy a lower mileage well kept FD. Or have a respectable shop such as IRP build your motor. Most people buy these cars with a motor built be Joe Smoe no name BS shop and wonder why the motor fails after 5,000 miles. It's hard to come by a shop that's a 100% competent when building these motors or working on these cars...sad but true.
Fact is this car is a sports car and will take a certain amount of money to maintain and or upkeep. These cars are 13-15 years old. Regardless of what the car is, at that age it will need financial TLC.
I suggest you analyze your financial situation and read this in its entirety:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
Good luck
06-13-10, 04:55 PM
#41
dealbreaker for me: low end/midrage torque
I recently met a guy with a C6 ZR1 and also his buddy with a C6 ZO6 and they both treated me to rides in their cars (lucky me!). Both of these guys are track junkies too, no stranger to hauling ***, both are very aggressive and competent drivers. We went flying through town, drifting around corners, etc. was the most fun I've ever had in a car I wasn't driving! I couldn't get over the acceleration either, both cars are absolutely insane. It takes just a few seconds to get to 100 FROM A DEAD STOP, blink of an eye to a dead stop and back to 100+ again. I loved every second of it and was giggling non stop for the rest of the day.
The thing that blows me away about both cars is the instant TORQUE of the engine (and hence acceleration that you feel) with changes in throttle input. Also the very flat nature of the torque is apparent, no spikes, no weird **** going on. These guys would jab the throttle and the car would instantaneouly LUNGE forward, awesome ****. You will have a very hard time to get that kind of response from a turbo engine, unless it already has a lot of cubes to start with, like a v8, or is setup like the BMW 335s or Nissan GTR or something like that. The best thing, for me personally, is not necessarily the magnitude of the torque but that it's available from idle all the way up. For example, see attached dyno chart from a stock 1998 Camaro Z28. Here is an internet link where I found the pic: http://www.ericohlsen.com/camarodyno This totally stock car makes more torque just off idle than I do @ peak!
Another one:
Just google "stock ls1 dyno" and you'll get the picture.
After that drive a couple weeks back, I started thinking, "wow, I really want a C6 ZO6 now..." But after really sitting on it I just can't see myself driving a vette, as much as I like the cars. And they are pricey IMHO, @ $50k used, up past $80k new. The other problem I have with them is that they are so common (at least where I live I see a handful of C6's every day, at least 2-3 zo6's a week). But I love my FD. I love the fact that it's a small, sub 3000# car. I think it's beautiful and I want to keep the car... but with a new heart. I've begun planning my swap.
But you know what? At the moment my car runs great, not that I haven't had problems with the motor/setup in the past. I have it 99% sorted at this point. Makes about 290-300 whp/250-260 ft-lb tq @ the wheels (dynojet). However, it's got 14 dyno pulls, and on the order of hundreds of street pulls. I have datalogs to prove it. After blowing the 1st one up DUE TO MY OWN IGNORANCE I started tuning myself. Approaching 25k miles on a rebuilt engine (used EVERYTHING besides seals). It's been very solid, starts right up every time, holds great idle vac, purrs like a kitten. I have no qualms or concerns about the reliability of the engine itself, just the **** attached to it (turbos come to mind). I bet I can get at least 50k miles out of this thing with about 10% of it's life being spent on a track. I truly believe if you take care of them they will last!
Just had it at one of the most stressful roadcourses in SoCal, car didn't skip a beat the entire time, had at least 50 runs past 130 mph in 4th gear in 90*F heat on shitty 91 octane fuel. See my recent youtube video if you don't believe me. Constant WOT conditions. My car feels like it belongs on a race track with the high revving non-sequential rotary... but around town where I drive it all the time I could really use the torque to give me that smile factor. My car doesn't feel fast until I hit 4k+ rpm and by that time I'm going 80+ mph and that gets me in trouble. I was considering converting back to a sequential setup to get the bottom end torque but then having to deal with the reliability of the control system which we all know can be a pain in the ***.
So my breaking point was riding in the new hyper powered vettes and realizing that broad torque band is what makes me happy
Doesn't make me not love my rotary though, and have tons of respect for the handful of quick ones on the road. If I had tons of $$$ I would be 20B N/A all the way. But the chevy motors are so plentiful, make great power/torque even toally stock, and are cheap. What's not to like?
The thing that blows me away about both cars is the instant TORQUE of the engine (and hence acceleration that you feel) with changes in throttle input. Also the very flat nature of the torque is apparent, no spikes, no weird **** going on. These guys would jab the throttle and the car would instantaneouly LUNGE forward, awesome ****. You will have a very hard time to get that kind of response from a turbo engine, unless it already has a lot of cubes to start with, like a v8, or is setup like the BMW 335s or Nissan GTR or something like that. The best thing, for me personally, is not necessarily the magnitude of the torque but that it's available from idle all the way up. For example, see attached dyno chart from a stock 1998 Camaro Z28. Here is an internet link where I found the pic: http://www.ericohlsen.com/camarodyno This totally stock car makes more torque just off idle than I do @ peak!
Another one:
Just google "stock ls1 dyno" and you'll get the picture.
After that drive a couple weeks back, I started thinking, "wow, I really want a C6 ZO6 now..." But after really sitting on it I just can't see myself driving a vette, as much as I like the cars. And they are pricey IMHO, @ $50k used, up past $80k new. The other problem I have with them is that they are so common (at least where I live I see a handful of C6's every day, at least 2-3 zo6's a week). But I love my FD. I love the fact that it's a small, sub 3000# car. I think it's beautiful and I want to keep the car... but with a new heart. I've begun planning my swap.
But you know what? At the moment my car runs great, not that I haven't had problems with the motor/setup in the past. I have it 99% sorted at this point. Makes about 290-300 whp/250-260 ft-lb tq @ the wheels (dynojet). However, it's got 14 dyno pulls, and on the order of hundreds of street pulls. I have datalogs to prove it. After blowing the 1st one up DUE TO MY OWN IGNORANCE I started tuning myself. Approaching 25k miles on a rebuilt engine (used EVERYTHING besides seals). It's been very solid, starts right up every time, holds great idle vac, purrs like a kitten. I have no qualms or concerns about the reliability of the engine itself, just the **** attached to it (turbos come to mind). I bet I can get at least 50k miles out of this thing with about 10% of it's life being spent on a track. I truly believe if you take care of them they will last!
Just had it at one of the most stressful roadcourses in SoCal, car didn't skip a beat the entire time, had at least 50 runs past 130 mph in 4th gear in 90*F heat on shitty 91 octane fuel. See my recent youtube video if you don't believe me. Constant WOT conditions. My car feels like it belongs on a race track with the high revving non-sequential rotary... but around town where I drive it all the time I could really use the torque to give me that smile factor. My car doesn't feel fast until I hit 4k+ rpm and by that time I'm going 80+ mph and that gets me in trouble. I was considering converting back to a sequential setup to get the bottom end torque but then having to deal with the reliability of the control system which we all know can be a pain in the ***.
So my breaking point was riding in the new hyper powered vettes and realizing that broad torque band is what makes me happy
Doesn't make me not love my rotary though, and have tons of respect for the handful of quick ones on the road. If I had tons of $$$ I would be 20B N/A all the way. But the chevy motors are so plentiful, make great power/torque even toally stock, and are cheap. What's not to like?
06-13-10, 10:01 PM
#43
If I'm allowed to "woulda / coulda / shoulda"... I dont think the V8 swaps would be as popular if we had OE 4rotor engines. /end-dream/ :-)
06-14-10, 01:39 AM
#44
Can one really use that word budget and building a third gen in the same sentence? Budget build third gen rx7s means cutting corners.
I say go for your v8 swap the rotary is not befitting of everyone, which then will free up more rotor housings for me to hoard cause Ill need them when I munch them up from asking for power levels four to five times more than they were intended. Anyway, rotary's dont just blow up its generally a result from our good friend Mr Incompetence.
This forum should be like the military and have a dont ask dont tell policy for v8 rx7s and delete the other engine conversions sub-fourm.
Its funny how people forget that the rx7 was designed around the rotary engine. So in the end v8 rx7s aren't really rx7s but just mazda 7 bodies with v8s stuffed in them. Also its not that unique or different to drop a LS motor in so the v8 guys need to cut the "because I want try something different" routine. Try a Ferrari F430 4.3l v8 engine now thats different.
06-14-10, 03:48 AM
#46
Im weighing up this option right now after my engine crapped itself.
Getting a V8 powered anything is jus not happening in the UK, and considering my FC weighs sub-1000kg and has serious suspension and chassis work its the ideal base regardless of engine.
I did the maths in my head quickly, and even a rebuild and map by a tuner here for a rotary (to the same spec, that is too slow for me, so id not be happy) costs the same as buying a brand new 525bhp LS crate engine, so with all the other bits id want, or can sell, plus how likely it would hold together long term considering the track/strip/drift abuse my car gets (id want 500bhp+, currently running 120mph in the quarter and that feels slow to me), the V8 seems like itd make sense.
I love rotarys, but I like to drive more than anything, and think with my head not my heart, so im going to do the maths and weigh up the options, and go from there.
Thats nothing to do with what engine is under the bonnet, thats power/weight/aero.
Getting a V8 powered anything is jus not happening in the UK, and considering my FC weighs sub-1000kg and has serious suspension and chassis work its the ideal base regardless of engine.
I did the maths in my head quickly, and even a rebuild and map by a tuner here for a rotary (to the same spec, that is too slow for me, so id not be happy) costs the same as buying a brand new 525bhp LS crate engine, so with all the other bits id want, or can sell, plus how likely it would hold together long term considering the track/strip/drift abuse my car gets (id want 500bhp+, currently running 120mph in the quarter and that feels slow to me), the V8 seems like itd make sense.
I love rotarys, but I like to drive more than anything, and think with my head not my heart, so im going to do the maths and weigh up the options, and go from there.
Thats nothing to do with what engine is under the bonnet, thats power/weight/aero.
06-14-10, 03:51 AM
#47
Not that my opinion matters, but I'd stay with a rotary in a rotary. I don't give a toss if people put v8's in theirs though. It just depends on what you want. I've seen ******* great examples of well done swaps and then I've seen 800hp 1.3 litres blow 6 litres away on the circut time and time again using around half the build budget. (NZGTR series).
06-14-10, 01:39 PM
#48
Im weighing up this option right now after my engine crapped itself.
Getting a V8 powered anything is jus not happening in the UK, and considering my FC weighs sub-1000kg and has serious suspension and chassis work its the ideal base regardless of engine.
I did the maths in my head quickly, and even a rebuild and map by a tuner here for a rotary (to the same spec, that is too slow for me, so id not be happy) costs the same as buying a brand new 525bhp LS crate engine, so with all the other bits id want, or can sell, plus how likely it would hold together long term considering the track/strip/drift abuse my car gets (id want 500bhp+, currently running 120mph in the quarter and that feels slow to me), the V8 seems like itd make sense.
I love rotarys, but I like to drive more than anything, and think with my head not my heart, so im going to do the maths and weigh up the options, and go from there.
Thats nothing to do with what engine is under the bonnet, thats power/weight/aero.
Getting a V8 powered anything is jus not happening in the UK, and considering my FC weighs sub-1000kg and has serious suspension and chassis work its the ideal base regardless of engine.
I did the maths in my head quickly, and even a rebuild and map by a tuner here for a rotary (to the same spec, that is too slow for me, so id not be happy) costs the same as buying a brand new 525bhp LS crate engine, so with all the other bits id want, or can sell, plus how likely it would hold together long term considering the track/strip/drift abuse my car gets (id want 500bhp+, currently running 120mph in the quarter and that feels slow to me), the V8 seems like itd make sense.
I love rotarys, but I like to drive more than anything, and think with my head not my heart, so im going to do the maths and weigh up the options, and go from there.
Thats nothing to do with what engine is under the bonnet, thats power/weight/aero.
a few guys around here have turbo ls1 fd's and those things are fast.
06-14-10, 11:50 PM
#50
i would rather have a ls1/ls2 just a cam and other bolt ons and tuned,, it be in the 10s and still be reliable and get 26mpg in city.
for cost to make rotary go fast will be fortune
THIS IS A EXAMPLE
an average lets say in example $10,000 all tuned 13b any port ,and make 800hp runs like 10sec. it wont be streetable
in a ls1/ls2/lm7/lq4,etc,, u spend $10,000 on that motor and make 900hp and **** load of torque and be in the low 9sec and even 8sec and still be streeable with a/c and still get around 24mpg
id rather drive a car and dont worry about it,,, then seeing it in the garage and driving it in the weekends.
how i see its cost vs. power and depenabilty.. just my .02 cents
for cost to make rotary go fast will be fortune
THIS IS A EXAMPLE
an average lets say in example $10,000 all tuned 13b any port ,and make 800hp runs like 10sec. it wont be streetable
in a ls1/ls2/lm7/lq4,etc,, u spend $10,000 on that motor and make 900hp and **** load of torque and be in the low 9sec and even 8sec and still be streeable with a/c and still get around 24mpg
id rather drive a car and dont worry about it,,, then seeing it in the garage and driving it in the weekends.
how i see its cost vs. power and depenabilty.. just my .02 cents
