arutha

iTrader: (2)

So this weekend my engine decided to let go and I have decided that I want to drive my car, not work on it after every event.

This car is becoming almost exclusively a track car (road courses), aside from the normal recommendations, is there anything specific I should look for in an LSx/T56 knowing this? Any specific items that should be upgraded etc...

Trying to get a parts list and costs together so I know what I need to sell to make the wife happier...

Thanks

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I have an LS powered FC track car and went through a similar experience. I ended up getting a LS1 that needed a rebuild, because I wanted to upgrade a lot of things and add a cam, and it was cheaper than paying a premium for a running engine, only to tear it apart. The car has been bulletproof since I hit the track with it. It has about 2500 track miles, and I have not had a single engine related issue.

If you get a running Ls1 pullout, and just want to run it stock for the time being, there are a few things you will want to do to make sure it lives at the track

You will want an Improved Racing Oil Pan baffle for the F body oil pan. If you run 100 treadwear or stickier tires, I would strongly consider an accusump setup as well, just for extra insurance. Always run 1 quart of extra oil in the pan.

You will want an oil cooler. You'll need to get an oil cooler adapter block that bolts on above the oil filter. Improved Racing is the go to for these as well. They have them with internal thermostats, or you can run an external thermostat.

I would get a COMP rocker trunion upgrade since it is a track car. It is $140 and replaces the needle bearing in the rocker arms with beefier bearings. You press out the old bearings, and press in the new bearings.

You may consider a fresh set of valvesprings, or aftermarket valvesprings.. depending on the age of your pullout and your future plans.

If you are going to modify the engine with better heads or a bigger cam there are a bunch of other things you will want to consider.

Cams are typically between $350 and $450.

If you put in a bigger cam you will want to upgrade the valvesprings to aftermarket units. For a track car I would go with dual valvesprings. I have a mild cam in my car (GMPP ASA cam), and still went duals for safety. BTR sells a very nice dual valvespring kit with Ti retainers for $300. You can run almost any cam out there with them. If you do single valvesprings, you can do Comp 918 springs for $170 and reuse your factory retainers, or get Comp retainers for an extra cost.

You will also want hardened pushrods. Those are around $120

I would consider new lifters while doing the cam. It is about $140 for a set of LS7 lifters. There are aftermarket lifters that go up in price from there.

You may want to do a new oil pump while you are in there. You can get a ported LS6 pump, or get a stock pump and clean it up yourself with a dremel.. it is pretty easy. Melling also has some very good aftermarket pumps. I run their 10296 High pressure/high flow pump (with the optional blue spring). The Melling 10295 is just higher pressure.

For track duty with a modded engine you will want to get a fresh timing set. You can do a simple LS2 sprocket and chain, or go with stronger aftermarket pieces like a dual chain, or the single C5R chain. It really depends on how much power you want to make.

I will say that once you have a plan of what you want to do, the LS1tech classifieds are a great resource to search for deals on new or used parts (where appropriate).

arutha

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what I was looking for, can I just use the dual sakebomb oil cooler I currently have in place?

As for power I am 350rwhp today so I am guessing no need for more than 400rwhp at this point and I will be running Hoosiers

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Awesome! Your car will be very similar to mine, but I have an FC. I am at 400 WHP on NT01s and there is not much else out on the track that can touch it. It is as quick or quicker than C6 Z06s on race tires.

Yes keep that oil cooler setup. You will need to run new lines to the engine but that is it.

I did forget one thing in my description above.. that is connecting rod bolts. If you are tracking the car above the stock HP and RPM, you will need to change out the rod bolts. Katech and ARP both have rod bolt offerings.

You will need to mod the engine to get it to 400 WHP, but you won't have to do too much. You will want to spend your money on all the valvetrain and reliability upgrades I outlined. As for a cam I'd seriously suggest the ASA cam to you. The GMPP version is not available anymore, but Howards makes a copy of it. It makes a nice broad powerband for road racing, and the cam is relatively low lift, so it is easy on valve springs.

Here is my dyno graph from this past Saturday.. It did 401 RWHP on the third pull. My LS1 engine is mostly stock, it does have forged pistons, and many relibility upgrades, but it is stock block, crank, rods, heads, and intake.




I would join Norotors.com if you have not already. There are a lot of great builds there, and most any question you have about swapping the engine and drivetrain has been covered.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Hey dude, I did get your PM a while back. I just remembered as I saw this thread. Work has been ridiculously busy and just got a little overcome by events. I'll shoot you a PM this weekend. LOF hit all the key points though.

Ruler_Mark

iTrader: (16)

What Brent means is to go buy a NASCAR crate motor and bolt it in.