How much did you pay for your V8 swap?
#1
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How much did you pay for your V8 swap?
I'm looking to swap a V8 into my '94 RX7 and would just like to know how much I should put to the side for the swap. I'll be doing all the work myself and i'd like to put an LS1 into it since they can be had for around $1,200. Before you guys get mad for not using the search feature...I have, numerous times. I haven't gotten a clear answer so I thought I would ask it myself. Thanks guys!
#3
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A full ls1 t56 pullout will typically go for $4k or so. $7 is a reasonable budget, easy to add $1-2k more if you want a good heads and cam setup. If you can find an upgraded pullout that will generally save you money.
Joel's build thread has a good parts list if you need one.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
Budget for FC:
-$2,000 for a clean shell (avoid rust buckets and get yourself something nice)
-$4,000 for a good condition complete LS1 pullout (avoid the piecemeal route if possible)
-$600 for engine mounting
-$600 in cooling stuff
-$300 for driveshaft stuff
-$1000 in misc (lots of nuts bolts etc)
Then add in money for whatever additions you need. For example:
-$150 for better brakes setup (5 lug, 4 piston front, vented rears)
-$400 for a t2 diff and axles
-$1000 in wheels
-$600 in tires (traction can be scary on less than sticky street 255s, ask me how I know)
-$1000 in coil overs
-$600 for an Accusump (not optional IMO if you want to track it).
-$1000 for a cam/pushrods/springs/retainers
-$250 in a rocker rebuild
-$150 for a ported oil pump
etc
Note, you can definitely save money by buying parts cars, but I consider that just like having a side job. It takes time and effort to buy and sell parts to "save" money so consider that when budgeting for the swap.
FD is similar, the biggest differences:
-$6,000 chassis (for a clean one w/ full interior, again don't scrimp here)
-$2,000 mounting hardware (it's a full subframe not just interface pieces, Samberg has the best one going and if you buy it from Ronin we'll powdercoat it for you.)
-$1,500 for cooling (go Samberg, it's worth it).
Oh and any interior parts your missing are going to cost you dearly so pick a good starting point.
Some chatter about what folks spent here.
How much do you have in your RX7?
Joel's build thread has a good parts list if you need one.
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
Budget for FC:
-$2,000 for a clean shell (avoid rust buckets and get yourself something nice)
-$4,000 for a good condition complete LS1 pullout (avoid the piecemeal route if possible)
-$600 for engine mounting
-$600 in cooling stuff
-$300 for driveshaft stuff
-$1000 in misc (lots of nuts bolts etc)
Then add in money for whatever additions you need. For example:
-$150 for better brakes setup (5 lug, 4 piston front, vented rears)
-$400 for a t2 diff and axles
-$1000 in wheels
-$600 in tires (traction can be scary on less than sticky street 255s, ask me how I know)
-$1000 in coil overs
-$600 for an Accusump (not optional IMO if you want to track it).
-$1000 for a cam/pushrods/springs/retainers
-$250 in a rocker rebuild
-$150 for a ported oil pump
etc
Note, you can definitely save money by buying parts cars, but I consider that just like having a side job. It takes time and effort to buy and sell parts to "save" money so consider that when budgeting for the swap.
FD is similar, the biggest differences:
-$6,000 chassis (for a clean one w/ full interior, again don't scrimp here)
-$2,000 mounting hardware (it's a full subframe not just interface pieces, Samberg has the best one going and if you buy it from Ronin we'll powdercoat it for you.)
-$1,500 for cooling (go Samberg, it's worth it).
Oh and any interior parts your missing are going to cost you dearly so pick a good starting point.
Some chatter about what folks spent here.
How much do you have in your RX7?
Last edited by Ronin Speedworks; 07-24-14 at 12:00 PM.
#4
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the correct way? to retain AC PS and RX7 Shifting?
FD - $6000-8000
samberg swap kit $1725
powerder coat + pedestals + mount - $550
samberg radiaor kit - $1460
Ford 8.8 diff + axel + gear oil + etc $2000 (or T2 Diff $450)
Drive Shaft - $450
Misc Riadior hoses - $60
Plugs + Wires $100
Low mileage LS1- $2000 (if you are even lucky these days)
T56 Magnum - $3000
t56 magnum Adaptor/SHifter - $250
MGW Short shifter - $200
Wilwood 7/8 Master Cylinder (Modified) - $100
Cobra **** - $20
Clutch + flywheel = $500
Pez conversion Harness = $1000
injectors $450
Improved Racing oil pan baffle - $200
Power steering lines and pumps - $350
HalsSpec AC Lines = $450
Ls6 intake - $400
Long tube header - $1200
Exhaust $600
cam/head - $2000
Tune - $500
Dakota digital speedometer converter - $200
auto meter gauges Water/fuel/oil - $200
Supra denso fuel pump $200
Fuel lines + fitting - $200
power steering pump + lines - $350
optional...aero:
99 front - $650
99 lip - $250
99 spoiler - $350
side diffuser - $450
99 light - $100
99 tail light - $350
Paint $ 800
suspension:
replace all bushing $700
full coilover $1000
tire and wheel $2000
this is not including tax or shipping or any labor...
see where I'm going with this?
FD - $6000-8000
samberg swap kit $1725
powerder coat + pedestals + mount - $550
samberg radiaor kit - $1460
Ford 8.8 diff + axel + gear oil + etc $2000 (or T2 Diff $450)
Drive Shaft - $450
Misc Riadior hoses - $60
Plugs + Wires $100
Low mileage LS1- $2000 (if you are even lucky these days)
T56 Magnum - $3000
t56 magnum Adaptor/SHifter - $250
MGW Short shifter - $200
Wilwood 7/8 Master Cylinder (Modified) - $100
Cobra **** - $20
Clutch + flywheel = $500
Pez conversion Harness = $1000
injectors $450
Improved Racing oil pan baffle - $200
Power steering lines and pumps - $350
HalsSpec AC Lines = $450
Ls6 intake - $400
Long tube header - $1200
Exhaust $600
cam/head - $2000
Tune - $500
Dakota digital speedometer converter - $200
auto meter gauges Water/fuel/oil - $200
Supra denso fuel pump $200
Fuel lines + fitting - $200
power steering pump + lines - $350
optional...aero:
99 front - $650
99 lip - $250
99 spoiler - $350
side diffuser - $450
99 light - $100
99 tail light - $350
Paint $ 800
suspension:
replace all bushing $700
full coilover $1000
tire and wheel $2000
this is not including tax or shipping or any labor...
see where I'm going with this?
Last edited by tbkonwso; 03-20-15 at 01:39 AM.
#6
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I started with the Fd already, and I got an aluminum LS1 block and 243 heads for 1000.
Thats where it went downhill.
So since I had nothing I started buying parts.
I got the samberg subframe and radiator setup.
But then i was like, well, i could spend 400 on a stock ls6 intake setup, or i could buy the FAST 102 and TB.
I needed a t56, but was like hey i need a built one and nice clutch/flywheel.
I needed an ECU but didnt want to do a full harness with all the issues with PEZ and the fact my ribs were broken. So I got the MSD Atomic.
I needed headers so I found some JTR 1 7/8s and ceramic coated em.
i needed a cam so i got a big one, but needed the valvetrain to handle it. double roller, melling pump, .660 ouble springs, pushrods, lifters, trays...
etc etc etc
So im sitting at 18k now. Then I went and got the burnout kit...
Its a money pit.
Thats where it went downhill.
So since I had nothing I started buying parts.
I got the samberg subframe and radiator setup.
But then i was like, well, i could spend 400 on a stock ls6 intake setup, or i could buy the FAST 102 and TB.
I needed a t56, but was like hey i need a built one and nice clutch/flywheel.
I needed an ECU but didnt want to do a full harness with all the issues with PEZ and the fact my ribs were broken. So I got the MSD Atomic.
I needed headers so I found some JTR 1 7/8s and ceramic coated em.
i needed a cam so i got a big one, but needed the valvetrain to handle it. double roller, melling pump, .660 ouble springs, pushrods, lifters, trays...
etc etc etc
So im sitting at 18k now. Then I went and got the burnout kit...
Its a money pit.
#7
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I am into my ls2 swap so for about 4800 right now, still need the cooling part, SO i would say 6K is a good number to have in your head. Then again? its just money right, comes and goes! build a monster!
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#8
it was going good for me. i was probably in it 4k before motor/trans
(including vinyl wrapping the car, wheels, swap kit, and others parts)
then i got a motor and trans.......lol
you can do it for fairly cheap though, just be modest.
(including vinyl wrapping the car, wheels, swap kit, and others parts)
then i got a motor and trans.......lol
you can do it for fairly cheap though, just be modest.
#9
No, it is not stock!
iTrader: (1)
I bought a really nice car with a dead motor for $1500, had someone build me nice Ford 302, had the AOD trans rebuilt and invested a total of just under10K. I did most of the install myself.
I drove it for 9 years and sold it for just about what I had invested. Details and photos are on my website, address below.
I drove it for 9 years and sold it for just about what I had invested. Details and photos are on my website, address below.
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I started with the Fd already, and I got an aluminum LS1 block and 243 heads for 1000.
Thats where it went downhill.
So since I had nothing I started buying parts.
I got the samberg subframe and radiator setup.
But then i was like, well, i could spend 400 on a stock ls6 intake setup, or i could buy the FAST 102 and TB.
I needed a t56, but was like hey i need a built one and nice clutch/flywheel.
I needed an ECU but didnt want to do a full harness with all the issues with PEZ and the fact my ribs were broken. So I got the MSD Atomic.
I needed headers so I found some JTR 1 7/8s and ceramic coated em.
i needed a cam so i got a big one, but needed the valvetrain to handle it. double roller, melling pump, .660 ouble springs, pushrods, lifters, trays...
etc etc etc
So im sitting at 18k now. Then I went and got the burnout kit...
Its a money pit.
Teds 8 rotor corvette - YouTube
Thats where it went downhill.
So since I had nothing I started buying parts.
I got the samberg subframe and radiator setup.
But then i was like, well, i could spend 400 on a stock ls6 intake setup, or i could buy the FAST 102 and TB.
I needed a t56, but was like hey i need a built one and nice clutch/flywheel.
I needed an ECU but didnt want to do a full harness with all the issues with PEZ and the fact my ribs were broken. So I got the MSD Atomic.
I needed headers so I found some JTR 1 7/8s and ceramic coated em.
i needed a cam so i got a big one, but needed the valvetrain to handle it. double roller, melling pump, .660 ouble springs, pushrods, lifters, trays...
etc etc etc
So im sitting at 18k now. Then I went and got the burnout kit...
Its a money pit.
Teds 8 rotor corvette - YouTube
then if you want to ride good.... replace every bushing... 1k coilover rims and sticky tires....
then i did wide body... 99 front , wings... paint... god.... it keeps going
#11
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Hey Guys,
Just thought I'd jump in here real quick and give a heads up that the Sikky Manufacturing FD RX7 LS1 swap kit is going to be released very soon! We'll have the only kit on the market that utilizes an unmodified stock crossmember. The last thing you want to do is start chopping up and modifying your car in order to make the motor fit. At that point you're greatly compromising the integrity and functionality of the vehicle. Here at Sikky we make the parts fit the car, not the car the fit the parts. We've taken the time to properly develop and engineer a full swap kit that is essentially a direct drop-in solution.
Here's a little teaser shot of our engine mount production run, as well as our shop RX7 as it comes into the final stages of completion.
Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have! 410-780-0009 or sales@sikky.com Thanks!
Just thought I'd jump in here real quick and give a heads up that the Sikky Manufacturing FD RX7 LS1 swap kit is going to be released very soon! We'll have the only kit on the market that utilizes an unmodified stock crossmember. The last thing you want to do is start chopping up and modifying your car in order to make the motor fit. At that point you're greatly compromising the integrity and functionality of the vehicle. Here at Sikky we make the parts fit the car, not the car the fit the parts. We've taken the time to properly develop and engineer a full swap kit that is essentially a direct drop-in solution.
Here's a little teaser shot of our engine mount production run, as well as our shop RX7 as it comes into the final stages of completion.
Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have! 410-780-0009 or sales@sikky.com Thanks!
#12
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Hey Guys,
Just thought I'd jump in here real quick and give a heads up that the Sikky Manufacturing FD RX7 LS1 swap kit is going to be released very soon! We'll have the only kit on the market that utilizes an unmodified stock crossmember. The last thing you want to do is start chopping up and modifying your car in order to make the motor fit. At that point you're greatly compromising the integrity and functionality of the vehicle. Here at Sikky we make the parts fit the car, not the car the fit the parts. We've taken the time to properly develop and engineer a full swap kit that is essentially a direct drop-in solution.
Here's a little teaser shot of our engine mount production run, as well as our shop RX7 as it comes into the final stages of completion.
Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have! 410-780-0009 or sales@sikky.com Thanks!
Just thought I'd jump in here real quick and give a heads up that the Sikky Manufacturing FD RX7 LS1 swap kit is going to be released very soon! We'll have the only kit on the market that utilizes an unmodified stock crossmember. The last thing you want to do is start chopping up and modifying your car in order to make the motor fit. At that point you're greatly compromising the integrity and functionality of the vehicle. Here at Sikky we make the parts fit the car, not the car the fit the parts. We've taken the time to properly develop and engineer a full swap kit that is essentially a direct drop-in solution.
Here's a little teaser shot of our engine mount production run, as well as our shop RX7 as it comes into the final stages of completion.
Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have! 410-780-0009 or sales@sikky.com Thanks!
#14
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The stock hood is retained with our kit. The LS engine drops in just like a factory motor would. Our oil pan is required and will be included with the basic mount kit. I'll snap some more photos asap to share with you guys. Let me know if I can help any further!
#18
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Here's a couple oil pan pics for you guys. It utilizes a trap door baffling system with a removable lid. The oil pan does require an oil filter relocation kit just like our other swap kits do. That is also included with the base kit. You do not have to mount the filter where ours is though, it's really something that's setup per application.
#19
I'm $21,000 in my FD with a STOCK body and no paint work yet....if you want a nice swap done right I don't see 8k doing it at all, my low mileage LS2 pull out was 6k!
Then the following thought process as I built....
Then it like well....better replace the rear main, the water pump, the belt tensioner, better pull the intake to clean everything up....now you need gaskets for everything. I think I'll do a catch can, better do it in all -An fittings.....cut my firewall lip. ....better weld it up and strip the bag for all new paint. Now it looks so good it needs new full coilovers. ....better change the wheel bearings too. Samberg mounting, radiator, driveshaft, shifter, Ronnin trans mount, powder coating! Wiring sucks better by the Holley efi, oh wait you can't control DBW with the Holley HP! Guess I better swap out the TB, need the Samberg cable bracket.....need clutch parts, need power steering parts, need fuel parts. Everything in an fittings so I better make my steam tubes and resivior all -an fittings too. Headers are here, better get ARP hardware for them, same with my water pump. Ect. Ect. Ect.....
Now I'm at 21k and still not running lol, waiting on brake upgrades.
Then the following thought process as I built....
Then it like well....better replace the rear main, the water pump, the belt tensioner, better pull the intake to clean everything up....now you need gaskets for everything. I think I'll do a catch can, better do it in all -An fittings.....cut my firewall lip. ....better weld it up and strip the bag for all new paint. Now it looks so good it needs new full coilovers. ....better change the wheel bearings too. Samberg mounting, radiator, driveshaft, shifter, Ronnin trans mount, powder coating! Wiring sucks better by the Holley efi, oh wait you can't control DBW with the Holley HP! Guess I better swap out the TB, need the Samberg cable bracket.....need clutch parts, need power steering parts, need fuel parts. Everything in an fittings so I better make my steam tubes and resivior all -an fittings too. Headers are here, better get ARP hardware for them, same with my water pump. Ect. Ect. Ect.....
Now I'm at 21k and still not running lol, waiting on brake upgrades.
#20
Spot on!
I'm $21,000 in my FD with a STOCK body and no paint work yet....if you want a nice swap done right I don't see 8k doing it at all, my low mileage LS2 pull out was 6k!
Then the following thought process as I built....
Then it like well....better replace the rear main, the water pump, the belt tensioner, better pull the intake to clean everything up....now you need gaskets for everything. I think I'll do a catch can, better do it in all -An fittings.....cut my firewall lip. ....better weld it up and strip the bag for all new paint. Now it looks so good it needs new full coilovers. ....better change the wheel bearings too. Samberg mounting, radiator, driveshaft, shifter, Ronnin trans mount, powder coating! Wiring sucks better by the Holley efi, oh wait you can't control DBW with the Holley HP! Guess I better swap out the TB, need the Samberg cable bracket.....need clutch parts, need power steering parts, need fuel parts. Everything in an fittings so I better make my steam tubes and resivior all -an fittings too. Headers are here, better get ARP hardware for them, same with my water pump. Ect. Ect. Ect.....
Now I'm at 21k and still not running lol, waiting on brake upgrades.
Then the following thought process as I built....
Then it like well....better replace the rear main, the water pump, the belt tensioner, better pull the intake to clean everything up....now you need gaskets for everything. I think I'll do a catch can, better do it in all -An fittings.....cut my firewall lip. ....better weld it up and strip the bag for all new paint. Now it looks so good it needs new full coilovers. ....better change the wheel bearings too. Samberg mounting, radiator, driveshaft, shifter, Ronnin trans mount, powder coating! Wiring sucks better by the Holley efi, oh wait you can't control DBW with the Holley HP! Guess I better swap out the TB, need the Samberg cable bracket.....need clutch parts, need power steering parts, need fuel parts. Everything in an fittings so I better make my steam tubes and resivior all -an fittings too. Headers are here, better get ARP hardware for them, same with my water pump. Ect. Ect. Ect.....
Now I'm at 21k and still not running lol, waiting on brake upgrades.
#21
Piston Head
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Completely right Nfinitecc. Once I started making any power at all and wanted quality too prices add up. For example, my stock T56 took a dump on me recently and I am now doing: T56 Magnum ($3K), subframes to fit transmission ($750), KAAZ LSD ($1100), Dual plate clutch ($900), plus getting the shifter to fit and the driveshaft cost. Could you do it for less? Yes. Could you do it for less and actually take the car out and beat on it? Hell no.
I won't even get started on how this process worked when I was doing motor, suspension, brakes, etc... like Nfinitecc said.
I won't even get started on how this process worked when I was doing motor, suspension, brakes, etc... like Nfinitecc said.
#22
Oh man I haven't even touched my rear end! That sounds like a really nice set up I'll have to check it out , I'm sure I'll run into you at a houston meet if I ever get running.
I should mention that $21k included the price of the car!
For me it came down to one thing....what would be more of a waste..
To spend 10k on a piece of ****
or spend 30k and have something really nice and VALUABLE.
I should mention that $21k included the price of the car!
For me it came down to one thing....what would be more of a waste..
To spend 10k on a piece of ****
or spend 30k and have something really nice and VALUABLE.
#24
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
Hey Guys,
Just thought I'd jump in here real quick and give a heads up that the Sikky Manufacturing FD RX7 LS1 swap kit is going to be released very soon! We'll have the only kit on the market that utilizes an unmodified stock crossmember. The last thing you want to do is start chopping up and modifying your car in order to make the motor fit. At that point you're greatly compromising the integrity and functionality of the vehicle. Here at Sikky we make the parts fit the car, not the car the fit the parts. We've taken the time to properly develop and engineer a full swap kit that is essentially a direct drop-in solution.
Here's a little teaser shot of our engine mount production run, as well as our shop RX7 as it comes into the final stages of completion.
Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have! 410-780-0009 or sales@sikky.com Thanks!
Just thought I'd jump in here real quick and give a heads up that the Sikky Manufacturing FD RX7 LS1 swap kit is going to be released very soon! We'll have the only kit on the market that utilizes an unmodified stock crossmember. The last thing you want to do is start chopping up and modifying your car in order to make the motor fit. At that point you're greatly compromising the integrity and functionality of the vehicle. Here at Sikky we make the parts fit the car, not the car the fit the parts. We've taken the time to properly develop and engineer a full swap kit that is essentially a direct drop-in solution.
Here's a little teaser shot of our engine mount production run, as well as our shop RX7 as it comes into the final stages of completion.
Feel free to reach out with any questions you may have! 410-780-0009 or sales@sikky.com Thanks!
Extremely interested in this and how it compares to other swap kits on the market. From the looks of things it will be around 3K? I'm about to do another LSX swap on an FD I recently picked up, I'm right down the road from Hinson but am still keeping my options open.
#25
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I'm about 22K in with my swap. Though it's taken 10 months and is still going! LS1 from a GTO. Aggressive cams and a larger intake. Allegedly it puts down 450 ft lb at the crank.