GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

last few nights as the rain settled in i was working on the t5. not knowing anything about v8 or mustang t5 5 speeds, i think i bought the wrong tranny. seems this one is a cable activated .
so thought about buying another when i searched for any conversion and made this setup.
this is the stock rx7 slave mounted on a plate i made.used a piece of 5/16 round rod threaded about 3 " for adjustments. plan to use the stock flex line and a new hard line back up to the master cylinder.http://

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Freeskier7791

Looks like you probably need to get a different bellhousing only. I have a few ford bellhousings actually but Im not sure if they are V8 or not. Will that slave cylinder pull in when you put pressure on it? That would be the direction it needs to move inorder to release the clutch. YOu could also run a hydraulic throwout bearing

tjm73

All manual transmissions (from Mustangs anyway) were cable operated until 2004. They went to hydraulic in 2005 in both the V6 and V8 cars. They are a pull configuration as mentioned by someone before me here. Be careful which bell housing you use with which T5. The 94-95 SBF bell housing is different than the 79-93 bell housing and the 94-95 T5 has a longer input shaft.

Ford did this because they increased the wheelbase of the car slightly and had to move the shifter location back a little bit to line up with the hole in the floor. Increasing the bell housing depth (to move the shifter back) required the longer input. And it allowed the same driveshaft to be used as the 79-93 cars.

What did your T5 come out of? I think I see an VSS output and not a mechanical output for the speedometer.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys
please keep your thoughts coming
slave pushes but see it's input is pointing to the bottom and it is just for mockup.
i want it pointing up so routing hose and hard line will be better

tjm73 the t5 came from a 88 mustang i was told but really who knows.

what is it about the bell housing ?

tjm73

The SN95 (94-95) bell housing is deeper than the 79-93 Foxbody bell housing by about a 3/4" to accommodate the longer input shaft the T5 had in those years. Side by side they are easy to tell apart. The SN95 has a big 5.0 or 3.8 cast into it above the top of the trans where the trans bolts on and it also has a set of vents right above that. The Foxbody has neither of these. Your picture looks like the correct bell housing (Foxbody) based on what you were told it came from.

But it also looks like it might have an electronic VSS (vehicle speed sensor) when the speedometer cable usually plugs in by the shifter tower (drivers side). But cruise control Foxbody cars had a similar thing to allow the cruise to work and also had the speedometer cable plug into the end of it.

Lastly the transmission mount looks like it might have a SN95 style exhaust hanger on it. I haven't seen on in a long time to know for sure.

Measure the length of the bell/trans including the rubber seal on the end of the output. Don't know why but that seal is included on all the dimensions I see online. If the overall length is about 31 5/8", it's a Foxbody length setup. If it is about 32 1/4" it is a SN95 setup. Which could be '94-'95 5.0 V8 or '94-'04 3.8 V6. They use the same T5 in those years with only minor differences.

But I think after looking at bell housings online, you will find it to be a Foxbody length.

tjm73

Also, there are several places selling hydraulic clutch conversions for the T5 in a Mustang. So your idea of converting it is totally doable.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

thank you for the detailed info
i wanted to take some more pics so you could see different angles but too much rain.
engine is on a stand for tear down and tranny is on a pallet outside covered with a tarp. i don't have access to a garage and do all work outside.
makes for some hard times to do things.
i looked on line to see what you said about cast marks for 3.8 & 5.0 and mine has nothing there . i will need a break in the rain to get a measurement.
the vss is there , looks like a electric type of sensor . the other plug that can be seen behind the slave , is that the reverse switch?

tjm73

Yes that is the reverse switch.

If the VSS looks like this, it's a speed control sensor. Which means the trans came from a car with cruise control. The pic is not clear enough for me to tell. If you do not need this sensor (and I'm betting you won't), you can eliminate the sensor by swapping to a non-cruise control speedometer cable. You will probably gain a little clearance. Which may or may not matter.

tjm73

Here's a little something you may find useful. If you pull the VSS and can see the gear that runs the cable it should be yellow which is 7 tooth drive gear for an '88 T5. In 1990 they went to an 8 tooth drive gear. But yours should be yellow. This will matter when you go to make your speedometer work correctly.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

oh dear

i got a chance to measure after work and from the outside of the bell housing to the outer edge of the seal is aprox 32
so what does this mean?
vss is exactly as you pictured
but mine has no neutral switch as you pictured.

tjm73

Approximately as in just under or just over 32"?

Ford put it's neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal assembly. I think that is a GM T5 from a Camaro.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

tonight after work i will try to get a picture of what i measure
so you can see if i'm at the right places
thank you

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

ok here are the pics of how i measure the length


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here is the info on this aluminum tag


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tjm73

Does that tag say 13-52-238? That might be from a V6 from 94-2004.

Identification Key to Borg-Warner T5 transmission ID Tags

Have you measured the input? I think it would be prudent. 1993 and back T5 input is 7.189" and the 94-04 input is 7.87" long. You want the dimension shown as "B" below.



The up to '93 T5 bell is 6.875" deep and the '94-'04 bell is 7.531"

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

yes tag does say 13-53-238, the 13 is just hidden by that bolt
that lying sob told me it was from a 5.0
does this mean the tranny is unusable?

i have not removed the bell yet
i will tomorrow to get that measurement

tjm73

Either way it's usable. But depending on the input it may need modification. Also the tags are not always 100%. Some anomalies have been seen.

Have you measured the bell housing from block mount end to T5 mount end?

The good news is starting in '94 the V6 and V8 T5's were basically the same strength, so it's not notably weaker. Based on the tag number is may not have as deep an over drive (0.80 vs 0.68). The other good news is the T5 in Mustangs, regardless of year or engine they were put behind are the same length. The difference in overall length is in the bell housing.

The bad news on that is if the input is the longer length, it's from a '94-'98 car. But there is a silver lining. I have read where guys trim the input tip about 5/8" and swap the bearing retainer to a 83-93 unit and all is good.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

ok here goes and now i'm glad i did this
removed the bell from the t5. to set my mind straight and bam it fits great. bolts rifght up with all holes in the right places.


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next i measured the input shaft from the t5 base to the end of the pilot bearing end 7 3/8"

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before trying it on the block i set the bell on a flat surface and checked its length at 7"

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also with the bell on the block i measured from the crank pilot bearing area out to the flange where the t5 bolts at 8"
so i may be wrong but will this not just go together right?
if the shaft is 7 3/8" and the bell is 7" with pilot area at 8"
to me looks like 5/8 " to spare
i'm not sure if this means it fits but it did make me feel better about this whole mess

on another note my clutch and flywheel arrived today
still waiting on the starter

tjm73

Glad to see you do actually have a Foxbody T5 like you thought you did when you bought it. Sorry if I caused you greif. Just questioned somethings that could have really rained on your parade if they were wrong.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

so i take it that my measurements show it will work ?
your help here is second to none, with out it i would not know tonight that all is ok.
thank you for making me dig in and learn.


you did nothing but help, see all this was a result of my lack of knowledge.
and now we can move on to bigger things .... the engine.
i bought tonight a edelbrock dual plane aluminum intake 1500-5500 rpm
what can any of you who read this suggest for heads?

tjm73

If you are sticking with the stock stroke and a 0.030" overbore (for a 357W), I'd suggest a pair of AFR 185 heads with a Comp Cams XE282 camshaft and Comp Cams 1.6:1 stainless steel rockers (lighter than aluminum and stronger too). Shoot for 10.25-10.5:1 compression minimum. Torque production won't be an issue. I would have gone with a single plane intake, but a dual plane will work. The car is so light making more torque down low won't make things faster. Even with the intake you just bought this should pound out 400 hp and probably 450-500 ft-lbs without breaking a sweat on pump gas.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

well thank you
i'm hoping to do a comp test on the 351w when the starter arrives
i was told the comp yeilded 158 to 164 psi across the 8
i'm not going for high hp just a solid running clean painted block and looks of a all aluminum top end.
i'm not a fan of drifting or drag racing my own stuff and not a tire fryer. just simply a good sounding and looking ride
man aluminum heads are costly

Freeskier7791

You'll find it way too tempting to not burn some rubber everytime you drive the car once its finished ☺

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

guys parts are slow coming
today i got my intake in
and i search tonight but can't see a pic of what this is for
there are 4 thread holes towards the back

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tjm73

Throttle linkage bracket.

GFRENCH

iTrader: (1)

thank you
so i take it that i will need these and those rods and spring
where can i pick these up?

i getting some parts in slowly
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