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Old 09-22-04, 03:32 PM   #1
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installed new rotors and pads, now car makes grinding noises

So I installed new brake pads and rotors for my AP racing big brake kit. I used the coleman racing rotors and ferodo pads. Having installed everything, sometime when I turn my car, I can hear a grinding noise coming from the brakes. Is this usual or what? The noise is pretty disturbing, and having double checked my work, everything is nice and tight and everything fits well.
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Old 09-22-04, 04:36 PM   #2
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Does the AP kit mount with the stock caliper bolts and did you mix up those bolts? One is slightly longer and if in the wrong spot it grinds on the inside of the brake rotor. Not sure if that's true for the AP kit as well.

The most a pad should do is squeal or possibly make "shooshy" noises. Grinding has got to be something not happy with where it is.
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Old 09-22-04, 06:10 PM   #3
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I bet it is the outside edge of the rotor rubbing the bridge bolt.

-Max
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Old 09-23-04, 12:37 AM   #4
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the weird thing is that the noise comes only when I turn the steering wheel. When the car is straight it doesn't seem to make any noises.

Max, that's an interesting point, but why would it make this noise right after I change the rotors when it didn't do it before?
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Old 09-23-04, 07:00 AM   #5
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I'm not familier first hand with the AP kit but I would disassemble the brakes right away. Anything making a grinding noise should be obvious once you pull it apart. The car is trying to tell you something is wrong...
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Old 09-23-04, 01:03 PM   #6
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you sure the wheel bearing is ok?
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Old 09-23-04, 08:20 PM   #7
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Once I changed the brakes on my wifes camry and slightly bent the backing plate toward the bottom. You couldnt see it at all unless you got down on your back and looked real close but it was enough that when I turned the wheel it would grind like hell. Sounded terrible.

Stephen
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Old 09-23-04, 09:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FooknTiteFD
the weird thing is that the noise comes only when I turn the steering wheel. When the car is straight it doesn't seem to make any noises.

Max, that's an interesting point, but why would it make this noise right after I change the rotors when it didn't do it before?
I suggest that you check to see if that is what is rubbing. I had some rubbing there on my kit at first. It was very minor, and I resolved it with a combination of "let it make its own clearance" and caliper-mounting shims (really thin washers between the caliper and the caliper mount bracket). The shims were included as part of the kit, to be used as necessary.

There are many reasons why it might rub now even though it didn't before:

1. There is very little clearance between the bridge bolt and the outer edge of the rotor, so even a minor change might lead to rubbing.
2. Wheel bearings allow some movement besides the wheel spinning. You might need new bearings (buy cheap from auto parts store or web site and DIY; it's easy) or your brake system might have the clearances too tight to allow for normal movement.
3. No two rotors are EXACTLY the same diameter, or EXACTLY round. The rotor might not be EXACTLY concentric with the hat (and in fact, some rotors are designed such that they aren't supposed to be exactly concentric to deal with heat expansion). The hat might not be EXACTLY concentric with the hub.
4. The bridge bolt cover thingy may have turned (it's round, but you may have quietly rubbed enough to make clearance in one spot) or simply ended up in a different position when you tightened the bolt up. Loosen the bridge bolt, and re-tighten as you pull the bolt away from the center of the wheel with a little strap (put a cable-tie on it and pull with your finger or something) to maximize the clearance.
5. The caliper might be in a slightly different position if you lost or switched positions of any shims that may have been between the caliper mount and caliper. Or the caliper may have moved slightly if you undid the caliper-bracket-to-upright bolts.

-Max
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Old 09-25-04, 05:15 AM   #9
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I solved the problem. The problem was that the rotor was too thick so it was rubbing against the inside of the caliper. I went and got the rotors resurfaced to make them thinner and now there are no more rubbing issues. I talked to a lot of people with the big brake kit from M2 performance and they said that brian apparently machines the rotors as well before he sells them brand new. The problem is that the M2 bracket is a piece of **** like many of their other products and doesn't center the rotor very well, I may switch to the N tech bracket in the near future.

Max, your suggestion using the washers would have worked but it was hard for me to find washers that were really thin, also this saved me a lot of time though i will risk having the rotors warped easier but oh well.





Quote:
Originally Posted by maxcooper
I suggest that you check to see if that is what is rubbing. I had some rubbing there on my kit at first. It was very minor, and I resolved it with a combination of "let it make its own clearance" and caliper-mounting shims (really thin washers between the caliper and the caliper mount bracket). The shims were included as part of the kit, to be used as necessary.

There are many reasons why it might rub now even though it didn't before:

1. There is very little clearance between the bridge bolt and the outer edge of the rotor, so even a minor change might lead to rubbing.
2. Wheel bearings allow some movement besides the wheel spinning. You might need new bearings (buy cheap from auto parts store or web site and DIY; it's easy) or your brake system might have the clearances too tight to allow for normal movement.
3. No two rotors are EXACTLY the same diameter, or EXACTLY round. The rotor might not be EXACTLY concentric with the hat (and in fact, some rotors are designed such that they aren't supposed to be exactly concentric to deal with heat expansion). The hat might not be EXACTLY concentric with the hub.
4. The bridge bolt cover thingy may have turned (it's round, but you may have quietly rubbed enough to make clearance in one spot) or simply ended up in a different position when you tightened the bolt up. Loosen the bridge bolt, and re-tighten as you pull the bolt away from the center of the wheel with a little strap (put a cable-tie on it and pull with your finger or something) to maximize the clearance.
5. The caliper might be in a slightly different position if you lost or switched positions of any shims that may have been between the caliper mount and caliper. Or the caliper may have moved slightly if you undid the caliper-bracket-to-upright bolts.

-Max
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Old 09-25-04, 05:15 AM
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