Let me start off by saying that there is definitely more than one way to remove and replace suspension bushings, and if you're not inclined to take your car or suspension parts to a local shop or just like to do your own work, then this write-up is for you.
For the do-it-yourselfer, there are three main methods, so let's cover them first and the pros and cons associated with each.
1) Sockets and Bolts
This is by far the most cost effective method, but probably also the most frustrating and definitely the most time consuming.
For those who aren't familiar with this method, it involves pulling the bushings out of the suspension components by tightening a nut on a bolt passing through a socket smaller than the bushing on one side and a socket larger than the bushing on the other. The force of tightening the nut "pulls" the bushing into the larger socket.
Max Cooper has by far and away the best write-up on this method, and you can find that here...
His write-up only covers the pillow bushings, but the method is much the same for the rest of the bushings in the suspension.
As will become apparent after reading through it, the cost savings comes from using a couple bags of hardware from your local home improvement store. On the other hand, the time consuming nature of this method arises from the need to continually change washers or bolts to get the right combination for leverage, as well as replacing washers that are destroyed in the process. Max says he went through 50-100 of them.
2) Mazda's SST (Special Service Tool)
Mazda's SST for replacing the suspension bushings is PN 49 F034 2A0. This part number includes a dozen or so "sub-parts". All are listed in the service manual, and the order in which they are to be used is shown in the illustrations.
This method is almost identical to the first, but the kit includes all the cup and press sizes required without trying to find sockets to match, and doesn't require a trip to the hardware store.
The downside is that it is also somewhat time consuming, and then there's the cost... with my 15% discount from Mazda, my cost is $369.07 ($434.20 retail). Unfortunately, it really isn't good for anything else after you're finished using it.
3) Hydraulic Press
This is the method I'll be covering in this thread, and while not exactly cheap, it's not as expensive as the SST method, it's fast, and at the end of the job, you've got a tool that you can use for several purposes besides playing with bushings.
The major expenses are the hydraulic press (more on that in a moment), a few pieces of bar stock (again, keep reading), and any sockets you don't already have in your arsenal. So without further ado, let's begin...