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Old 04-16-12, 05:39 AM   #1
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Front Brakes swapped to Rear

Hi guys, was thinking of upgrading the front brakes for a big brake and was wondering if i can swap the OEM front brakes with those at the rear.

Can this be done? or its a stupid swap

Thanks!

Ken
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Old 04-17-12, 05:41 PM   #2
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I think that would be cool to have...not sure how it would be done though..you would probably need to get front different rotors..only one way to find out i guess
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Old 04-20-12, 08:26 AM   #3
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I already have 2piece autoexe vented discs at the front. I just want to know if i can swap these at the back....

Does anyone have any idea if this is possible or not please?

Thanks!
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Old 04-20-12, 10:51 AM   #4
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you would need custom mounting brackets for the calipers.

whats your plan for a parking brake?
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Old 04-20-12, 04:18 PM   #5
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^^Yes, you're right. I totally forgot the ebrake
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Old 04-27-12, 01:25 AM   #6
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Sorry for getting back to this but i was rethinking about it. The ebrake has nothing to do with the disc right? So this wouldn't be effected.

Has anyone gone through to something similar?
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Old 05-02-12, 08:53 AM   #7
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Anyone ?!!!!!
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Old 05-06-12, 05:16 PM   #8
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Bumpo...? gonna have to give it a go
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Old 05-06-12, 06:10 PM   #9
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The e-brake is built into the caliper. So yeah that won't go very well. Also, the rotor would need to fit over the rear wheel hub and IIRC the fr/rear rotors have significantly different offsets.

Last but not least, is understanding the brake balance. If the proportion of front / rear braking force at the end of the upgrade is larger in the rear than before, the car will spin out under heavy braking. (Every time). So if it fits physically, it would be wise to work out the math on the hydraulics.

David
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Old 05-07-12, 09:07 AM   #10
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the answer is yes you can but no you shouldn't unless you want to enter the corner

BACKWARDS

dgeesaman is exactly correct

"the car will spin out under heavy braking. (Every time)."

the most important consideration as to brakes is front to rear balance of effort. the FD is designed w 68% front effort and 32% rear so when weight shifts forward under braking (about 20%) the forces equalise.

relocating the front brakes to the rear would throw the balance out of kilter and you would end up around 50/50 and swap ends. sure you could add HUGE front brakes to regain some of the bias but at that point you would be running too much brakes everywhere and your pads/rotors wouldn't reach proper operating temp.

i do give you credit for thinking creatively and using the forum's resources for feedback.

howard

Last edited by howard coleman; 05-08-12 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 05-07-12, 09:18 AM   #11
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Thanks David and Howard for your input. It would be better to purchase a whole kit and upgrade the rear and front brakes at once then. I was just thinking that if i upgrade just the front for a Big Brake and swap the oem ones on the rear everything would be fine. But i was totally wrong.

THANKS AGAIN !!!

Ken
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Old 05-31-12, 01:02 PM   #12
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There is an fc owner namef ”furb”” that put 4pot front fc calipers in the rear with a custom bracket, lines and proportioning valve. Search and you will it.
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Old 05-31-12, 01:12 PM   #13
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How about a line lock, for an emergency brake? Solenoid draws VERY low amperage, and it would keep the rears locked. Huh, a toggle switch for the e-brake ...
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Old 06-12-12, 01:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotaryracer1 View Post
There is an fc owner namef ”furb”” that put 4pot front fc calipers in the rear with a custom bracket, lines and proportioning valve. Search and you will it.
Indeed i did!
They are right about the brake balance, i'm still working on it
I have a brake balancer but its at max and still lock the rear wheels from time to time. Got Stoptech pads so i need something that everyone thinks is a shitty pad :p

On my FC i am using FD rear discs with FC front calipers.
I made a converter that transfers the movement of the stock e-brake cables into hydraulic pressure. That way i could keep the stock handbrake lever and still have everything functional. Converter is tucked away next to the diff.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-17-12, 05:48 PM   #15
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Just reading your post how did u end up goin or what did u end up putting in?? I have an fd and just starting to shop around for breaks an swapping front to read seamed to be a good idea.. If u went for a break kit what did u end up goin and where did you get them from?

Wazza
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Old 06-19-12, 10:06 AM   #16
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Dude, what?? I can't make much of your post..
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Old 06-19-12, 10:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard Coleman CPR View Post
relocating the front brakes to the rear would throw the balance out of kilter and you would end up around 50/50 and swap ends.
Oh if only he were enlarging the front brakes at the same time....



The RX-7 calipers seem pretty small, the pistons are, what, 38mm? Same piston area as the single-pot front units used since 1979 to the end of the FCs. So proper motorsports calipers up front with larger or more pistons should even things out (or vice-versa - the OE front calipers on the rear will re-establish balance).

RX-7 front calipers on the rear is a not uncommon thing to do for some club-level motorsports. Now you know why the calipers seem to be gone if you find an RX-7 in a junkyard.
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Old 06-20-12, 04:54 PM   #18
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Just wanting to know what a decent break kit upgrade is what ppl have gone and where on the net I can buy them from?? Any help would be nice and is a 99 fd
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Old 06-24-12, 05:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furb View Post
Indeed i did!

On my FC i am using FD rear discs with FC front calipers.
I made a converter that transfers the movement of the stock e-brake cables into hydraulic pressure. That way i could keep the stock handbrake lever and still have everything functional. Converter is tucked away next to the diff.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Ingenious solution.

I can't quite see how this is working? Care to explain it?
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Old 06-25-12, 10:21 AM   #20
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First pic shows it all:
Handbrake cylinder is mounted in the big hole on the left plate, with the rod going into the plate on the right. You can see the threaded hole in the center.

The handbrake cables are mounted above the cilinder.
The outer cable is fixed onto the same left plate as the cylinder, and the moving inner cable is hooked into the upper slots on the right plate

When you pull the handbrake lever, you pull the right plate towards the left plate. This pushes the rod into the cylinder, which then activates the brakes.

The springs are there to make sure the brake is released when you put the handbrake lever down.

The first pic is actually the second version, 2nd pic was the first.
First version was too weak..
Because the brake cables are on top, the rod got bent when you pull the lever when you had your foot on the brake already.
So i made the right plate with an angle, supported on teflon for smooth operation. The extra spring in the middle also helps divide the force more evenly.
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Old 06-25-12, 10:21 AM
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