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In a week or 2 i'll be starting my 6port turbo conversion project and i'm a little undecided as far as fuel management systems.
The reason I included the SAFC 2 is just because i'm curious as to how different it is from the neo. I know the neo has the v-tec feature, but it's not going on a honda.
Basically if someone could outline the pros/cons of each as far as level of tunability, user-friendlyness, longevity etc.
Get the Rtek....I run the AFC Neo and the Rtek, one in each of my FC's, my friend has a SAFC 2. Hands down, get the Rtek. Get your car dyno tuned by someone who knows how to make the NA's come to life.
The only thing you need to know about AFC's is that they cannot adjust timing. They also alter fuel by changing the AFM signal rather than changing the fuel table.
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Ex-King of the Loop / Captain Guardrail / Master Crab Rapist / Crop Dusting Mod
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattz
Well, when you say it like that, it sounds much more balanced. D-cups are easily worth paying thousands in interest.
Get your car dyno tuned by someone who knows how to make the NA's come to life.
I guess you missed the part where I said I am turbocharging the na, at least that's what I meant by 6port turbo.
Now I understand that an Rtek is about 400 bucks and a neo is a little less than that, but I don't have a PDA or laptop so that would mean I'd have to buy one of those in addition to the Rtek.
Now I don't know how much PDA's cost but I'd imagine they would be in the $150-$350 range, putting the setup at like $550-$750, which is starting to get close to the price of a standalone.
PDA's can be had for $30-$50 bucks off ebay. Just get an old one. If it tunes, it tunes. Hell, I'll sell you one of my PDA's for what I bought it for off ebay.
If you're doing 6 port turbo......I'd still say get the rtek over the afc. Timing is even more critical when it comes to turbo charged cars.
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Ex-King of the Loop / Captain Guardrail / Master Crab Rapist / Crop Dusting Mod
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattz
Well, when you say it like that, it sounds much more balanced. D-cups are easily worth paying thousands in interest.
Like I know that it would be better to use the T2 ecu, but that involves splicing the wiring harness and adding the knock sensor. It's not that I can't do it, I would really prefer to do as little wiring as possible.
I was jsut reading on the Rtek site and it sounds like the '86-'88 s4 na Stage 2 Rtek is designed to work with boost and larger injectors, so I think I'll go with that one.