FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

First and foremost I'd like to say thank you to everybody so far for helping me out on the forums, everybody is so helpful. I've noticed this section doesn't get many threads probably for the fact that standalones offer a broader range of tuneability, but I'm gonna work with what I've got and buy a standalone later, since I got this for free.

The car is pretuned and running on these settings, please tell me if anything looks out of the ordinary or if anything should be changed. It runs fine, but under light throttle it doesn't go above 1500 rpm. If you depress the gas pedal further it will overcome the 1500 barricade and rev normally. It idles at about 900 rpm on the dash, the SAFC says it is idling at like 1400.

This is an SAFC, not the SAFC2. It has a new O2 sensor connected to an Air Fuel Ratio graph. It's kinda neat it has little dots that tell you if it's running lean or rich.

The car has an A'Pexi catback single out, stock cat, some sort of downpipe, no air pump connected to the cat. Stock turbo with an aftermarket boost gauge reading about 6 psi whereas the dash boost gauge doesn't move out of vacuum. Apexi intake, greddy fmic with greddy throttle body. no power steering or ac, blitz bov

I have no manual for this and I am actively seaching the web for one.

Here we go...
When the car is off:

2. Setting-1. Hi-Thrtl 1000rpm [1%]
From 2000-8000rpm [+/-0%]
2. Lo-Thrtl 1000 rpm [-8%]
2000 rpm [-3%]
3000 rpm [-1%]
4000-8000rpm [+/-0%]
3. TH-Point - Lo [3%]
Hi [80%]
5. Dec-Air - Thr [****%]
Ne1 [10.0%]
Ne2 [10.1%]
3. Etc-2. Car Select- Cyl [3]
Thr [Arrow pointing up to the right]

While running:
Afl 13.5-13.6%
Thr 0-6%
Rev 1015-1060 rpm
Cor -7.8 to -8.0%

3. etc-4. Sensor CHk - In1: 2.745 V
In2: .065 to .105 V
Thrt: 1.045 to 1.125 V

I don't know how this thing works, only that if I touch anything my car will probably explode.

I think it's interesting that it is set to 3 cylinders. I wonder if anybody can walk me through a "base map" of sorts for my mods?

Please and thank you!

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

When I changed Cyl to 4 the SAFC's RPMs matched what my dashboard was showing. I'll leave it on that now I guess. If I changed it to 6 it showed about 300 less and when it was on 3 cyl it was about 500 more than the 4.

Some fruit for thought. I tried adjusting the Low in neutral and the car will die at around -45 but the idling speed will increase about 20 rpm if I go from -8% to -17% for 1000 rpm. That seems like a good change.

I will not adjust Hi without a dyno pull. I don't wanna kill my car.

Can somebody atleast help me tune the Lo? Atleast I'm making an effort to tune the car myself but not foolishly.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

What kind of sensor does the FC have and at what voltage does it run at?

I'm also having trouble getting the SAFC to save it's data. Everytime the car shuts off it goes back to 6 cylinder on startup, that maps stay the same but the rpms are always wrong.

What does Initialize do if the car tunes in real time?

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

Woops. I found out why it wasn't holding my monitor settings. Initialize doesn't turn everything on. Initialize should be renamed "Reset." For all who didn't know, Initialize brings the SAFC to the original settings.

Does nobody post here? Lol.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

lol, I guess not.

It sounds like you've got it figured out pretty well.

What kind of wideband sensor setup do you have? This is very important.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I do not have a wideband, I plan on ONLY tuning the Lo-Map until I can schedule a dyno day.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

A wideband is a wise investment. It's a good idea to keep an eye on that kind of stuff while you're driving. Plus, once you get it tuned, it will only be the same tune in the exact same weather conditions. Your tune will be off the next day...if you have a wideband, you can adjust a few points up or down and fix it yourself. It's supereasy, I promise.

www.qksltwo.com AEM Eugo $265.

BklynRX7

Its seems like its barely adjusted off stck setting at all. Is this a n/a or a tii? I wouldnt mess with a tii w/o a wideband, you dont have to buy one, youll just use it while on the dyno. If its n/a you can probably rough tune it if your not too scared, ill give you more info if its n/a.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

This is a turboii, and Shaolin thank you for the product recommendation but my friend has a wideband that i can probably use to tune every once and awhile. I'll probably eventually buy my own and look into that product. Any more input?

What sensor type and voltage are we? Would we be Pressure 04/04??

RotaMan99

A nice data logging wideband will work out well. A bit safer when road tuning.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I still don't know what a lot of the functions do in the S-AFC. A walkthrough of how to set it up for an FC would be great. I have it installed, I need to make sure it was installed right and getting it to be reading the right data. It will function as a tach for now, but I'd like to atleast KNOW how to use it so when I get a wideband I can play.

Any guides online? I found one here: http://www.saturnspeed.com/hardcore_tech/safc_setup.htm

It's how to set it up for an SC2 Saturn, but you can use a lot of the stuff as reference and just plug in the stuff that works for the FC. I want something like this but more from somebody here on the boards who successfully tunes their own SAFC.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

What type of sensor are we? Flap, Pressure, Karman, etc? Also what is the in and out voltage?

I have my Lo-Map set to

1000 = -17
2000 = -9
3000 = -1

my th point is 99% so that is always in effect unless I'm at 100% WOT.

RotaMan99

I have never used the SAFC 1 but did you check to make sure the o2 was actually connected to the SAFC? Also, if they did, you are watching the voltage go up and down but its really only on a scale from around 13-15 and nothing more. I will actually have to look again for the range of the narrow range O2. You can use that to do a small "cruise" tune but nothing more.

What year is your engine? Im guessing its a S4 since you said below
Now if it is a S4, then yes you can do that and it is reccomended. I have actually heard that hooking the SAFC upto the boost sensor is better since you will adjust fuel under boost instead of throttle position. This is what I have heard.

Also, if you want, Im sure you could swap on a S5 throttle body and wire the narrow range TPS to the ECU and wire the full range TPS to the SAFC. Thats what I did, that what 100% throttle, IS 100% throttle.

Flap

Series4: 05/05
Series5: 06/06

That seems a bit, well low for the numbers. If you feel the engine is running ok then I suppose its fine. I don't have a Turbo, mine is a S4 n/a but I only have -4 from 1000-4000. Thats only because I don't have wideband so I just removed fuel for fuel efficency.

I wish I could help you with a walk through with the SAFC1. I think there is ENGLISH directions on the APEXi site for the SAFC1, just not v2

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

There is only directions on the install, mine is installed and working fine. It's an 89 TurboII I have it set like that because I have not set the Hi Map yet so I don't want the 0% Lo map to be used.

I just put the stocker dual on it and I think it's like 17, 9, 6. It idles a lot better now.

Flap 06/06 for a S5? Thank you so much!!!

RotaMan99

PMed ya back

Just to add it here too, I would change your LOW throttle point to around 30-40% and change your HI throttle to just above your LOW. Your large corrections in your low map you do not want to have made over 50+% throttle.

Also, just to let everyone know what the SAFC does BETWEEN the two throttle point. Hi and Low. The SAFC will make up its own map to make both ends meet.

example, Your LO is at 30% and your HIGH is at 50%.

In your LO map you have -13 at 2500rpm and your HI map is +2 at 2500 rpm. If you press the throttle to around 40% at 2500, that SAFC would make the correction be about -7.5. If you press the throttle to 49%, it would be around +1.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

When I set it to Flap 6/6 it sputtered and died after a period of about 10 seconds.

It is set to Hot Wire 01/01 1/1 right now and runs fine. I don't know what this is all about but it runs. It runs a little worse on Pressure but still runs. Also, how do you "set" the sensor. I just kind of highlight it and it starts working all of a sudden.

What is that even for? Is that the type of O2 sensor we have or something?

RotaMan99

These directions are for the SAFC2 but you should be able to make them work with yours as well. The settings you tried is to set the type of Air metering sensor in out case is a Air Flow Meter (AFM).

Setting Sensor (AFM)
1. ETC
2. Sensor Type
3. Highlight flap and push right arror. Highlighting the sensor engages that sensor but you must set the in and out.
4. Set 06/06

Setting Cylinders & Throttle.
1. Car Select
2. Cylinders..(4)
3. Throttle Arrow (up-right)

After that, before starting the car, I want you to go into settings and then go to datafile and select the file thats OFF. Then make sure there are ZERO corrections made on both HI and LO maps.

If the SAFC1 does not have 2 data files to choose from, which I think it does, Zero out all corrections.

Your engine should run fine now, Unless they some how installed a hotwire MAF in the intake which is possible but requires a lot of work.

If that doesn't work, then Initialize the SAFC and try setting it correctly from scratch basically doing what we were just doing.

Just a FYI, mine is a S4 and I can have it set to either sensor type and have it idle and run fine untill I try to rev the motor.

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

AH hah, I still had my corrections on, I'm going to go out and try it out right now. SAFC1 does not have 2 datafiles I don't believe because there is nothing like that in my settings menu.

I had cyl on 4 and upright arrow. Anybody know why it's set to 4 cyl? The power pulses would be way wrong, no?

Is your S4 a turbo?

Edit: With all settings at 0, my car started and idled, yes, but it was 200 rpm lower than on Hotwire and sputtered very poorly. I noticed Hotwire became 6/6 as well, but there is also an option for sens no, which if you turn it to 2 the other one says "ADD"

Do I set pressure to 0/0? It's at 1/1 now. Also, can you set Karman even at all?

RotaMan99

Thats what APexi reccomends. They say, the number of rotors X 2 = 4.

Power Pulse? Something in the SAFC1?

When you set it to flap 06/06. The SAFC doesn't use the other options such as pressure, harmen, hotwire etc. It will only use Flap. So leave Flap highlighted and set it to 06/06.

Now, you should be able to set the throttle points. I don't know how low you can go on the SAFC1. On my engine, I have the first throttle point at 800rpm and have the idle around 800 so I can set the idle AFR without poping the hood and adjusting the adjustable resistor. On a S5 I don't think you have an adjustable resistor for the idle AFR adjustment.

How does the engine rev? If you hold the engine at various RPMs say, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000 etc. How does the engine sound. Some poping in the exhaust is ok. Sputtering is not. Let me know if the engine struggles to run.

Also, when you press the accelerator pedal down fairly quickly, how does the engine respond?

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

It responds like it used to, relatively. I've got very little change to the sound other than the lower idle. SAFC1 can only tune in 500rpm increments.

By power pulses I meant the way the car ignites. When a 4 cyl is bouncing back and forth a rotary bounces nothing like it. I'm guessing the SAFC doesn't take that into effect or anything. I don't have the manual so if that's what the SAFC manual recommends than ok!

Flap AFM are like the little aluminum flapper right?

The idle just sucks. I have to change it to Hot-Wire to not get annoyed by how terrible it runs on Flap.

RotaMan99

I wonder if its wired correctly.

This is strange. The SAFC doesn't control ignition at all. It only modifies the AFM signal to the ECU so the power pulse situation your thinking of doesn't matter here.

The flap, in your case is the cone in the AFM. On S4 engine the flapper is the aluminum flapper

something is not right if it idles better on hot-wire. hmmm

FRFC3S

iTrader: (24)

I'm starting to think I should rip the thing off and see how well it idles, than install it myself so I know it's done correctly.

RotaMan99

Well, you should be able to disconenct the AFM wires to and from the AFC and connect them together the way they would have been before the install and your engine should run exactly the same as it did before the install.

I would check the wiring to make sure its correct. Your engine should run fine with the correct settings.

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

Yep. Just to clarify (because that wasn't the clearest).

Unplug the SAFC from the harness
Splice together the ONE cut wire on the engine harness.

Car is now stock.

RotaMan99

Shouldn't have to remove the AFC from the harness, after disconneting it from the AFM wires, its simply a monitor.

we are hoping there is only one cut wire