FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

Sure glad i read this. Makes sense of my intermittent smoke i am getting from my rear turbos.
Here i thought i had a bad oil control ring.

thatpoorguy

great reading

thought i might post pics of another turbo killer i encountered firsthand, boost surge. caused by your BOV's not venting enough pressure when you let off the gas, all the pressurized air backs up and rapidly slows the impeller wheel while the turbine still has exhaust pressure pushing against it. this causes a twisting motion of the shaft and eventually, it will snap. mine was due to a vacuum line popping off of the BOV without me knowing

first picture was the primary of the stock twins
second is the turbine wheel and shaft banzai found in my midpipe
third is them flushing out my intercooler
fourth is the pieces of my impeller wheel that made it into the intercooler

zheka

on my FD, i replaced engine. and reused my known good turbos. it was smoking, and leaking oil bad enough that oil was dripping from turbos waste gate cover. So i though my turbos got bad from previous engine blowing apex seal. when i replaced the turbos, it was smoking a lot less, on a first test drive. second day i had it running, at idle, it started to smoke just like it was with the first set of turbos i had, and again dripping from waste gate cover. What would that mean? Could it be from vacuum lines being rerouted wrong way, passably?

FDSeoul

iTrader: (8)

I am still too damn busy @ work to address this ticking time bomb issue that is have. Just knowing and prolonging this will only end in one result.

I hope to i get to cure this before me time is up.

BTW I am seeing more and more oil in the cold side pipes

thatpoorguy

bad ju ju man, it doesn't take too long to swap out the turbos. make sure you have something to crimp the coolant lines though so you don't have to drain and refill your coolant system. I used needlenose vise grips

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

im 6 natalie gates hi

Edit: oops sorry, that was obviously my daughters first rx7club post, lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

glad someone posted this, im getting tired of seeing people toss turbos onto their cars with no oil line restrictors and wondering why there are no mosquitos for miles. and also why i hate that those same shops also sell oil pressure mod upgrades to those same customers and send them on their way billowing clouds of smoke under boost.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

^ Very true.. my car had a Gt 40R dual b/b turbo when I bought it... NO Oil RESTRICTOR!!!! and a bloody kinked oil drain.. I immediately re did my drain line and put a restrictor in...but despite my efforts..The turbo went out yesterday in the canyon..Billowing smoke..and oil all over my exhuast mani. Can't complain though.. put 8k on it after It finally went out. Time for an upgrade!!!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sorry to hear, forcing oil past the oil seal damages the seal and shortens the turbo life so it was just a matter of time.

rotary4life12

my turbo seal went bad but it looks maybe due to old age and hard usage.

littlemimus

how can you tell if your seals are bad? oil in the inducer side?

powernut

usely signs of eccsive oil in the intake , possible push off blue smoke on start up and a puff of blue when changing gear in boost, if its dry , be fine

specgabe

good info....i saw smoke coming up where the turbo is located...now i want to see if its a line or a leak from the turbo itself..gots some work ahead of me..i bought the car a year ago...88trubo II, and took intercooler off and almost everything to see if maybe the car didnt trun on becuase of a wire that wasnt conected..found the problem.. and finally got it running.. changed the fuel pump and cut the wire that goes to the injectors and turned on my rx7 after 5 yrs of just setting in someones back yard..i cant wait to register the car and take it for a spin....=D

Rtrinh001

iTrader: (5)

Does it cause your car turbos to smoke

bo0557

iTrader: (1)

hey guys.

ive got a issue here with my newly lapped, ported and dowelled 12a large extend port. The car is running a TO4R with 1.15 rear a/r and has approx 1500 miles from new.

The car was running fine a few weeks ago when i found a short in under the dash from old head unit wiring..

I sorted that out and withing 10min of firing it back up the car was chugging white oily/ fuely smoke out the tail pipe and had lots of oil in the rear muffler.. The plugs seem clean (pic below).



So today i decided to do some analysis and i removed the oil feed from the turbo and ran it back into a can and let the car run - it was running and wasnt running the best - but didnt seem overly clean.

Shaft play on the turbo seems minimal and i dont know what else to do..


http://s1017.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_1285.mp4

Any advice guys??

thewird

iTrader: (8)

If theres oil in the exhaust it will take a long time to burn out. You could try something like this to run it N/A for a while to see if it clears up.



thewird

bo0557

iTrader: (1)

hahahah ^^^

this is exactly going to be my next step.. I want to pull the wastegate off to check and see if there is oil on the valve - if not then i guess im clear on the oil control rings and turbo related..

keep you's posted.

CarbonR1

iTrader: (2)

If you plan on doing this, make sure you lock the compressor wheel so it won't spin without oil.

bo0557

iTrader: (1)

So i removed the wastegate and found this.. Unsure if this is now related to the tubro or not

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

pull the turbo off and see if there is any oil in the manifold or if the oil trail starts directly after the turbine wheel.

oil in the manifold leading to the turbo = bad oil control rings or poor port work into the oil seal tract.

oil just past the turbine wheel into the exhaust = bad turbo turbine carbon seal.

silver-rex-7

I have an oil issue on my single turbo FD, I have a 60-1 turbo /journal bearing/ with .84 hotside. what would be the proper restrictor size for this turbo or if I wanted to replace this turbo and go for ball bearing what would be the closest turbo to this one? I have to rebuild the turbo again due to bearing failure. It might have to do with crankcase pressure being to high but I have a atmospheric vent on the oil filler neck cap on my car so I don't think that is the issue. Any thoughts anyone?

bumpstart

thoughts = needs vacuum.. i keep typing it,, and those that ignore it keep on burning up turbos


what is so abhorant to all of you who keep on persisting with only a vented system or catch can ?



the factory puts a vac on it .. with stock blowby
/// you have more boost and more blowby .. so why do you think you now magically dont need a vac to pull it out ?


its fu%*& simple to add the vac line.. or to simply not delete the one you was given from factory

when you get bigger boosts,, its also not hard to tap a 5/16 or 3/8 fitting into the filler cap and use the larger diameter hose that common sense tells you you will need

silver-rex-7

From the neck the vacuum comes from the upper intake manifold and the primary turbo on twin turbo cars. the primary turbo is constantly providing vacuum. when you go to a big single turbo is a different story. that vacuum is not as constant as the primary stock turbo from the twins. since when you are on boost the pcv valve going to the upper intake manifold closes and all the vapors are getting sucked up by the turbo's intake side. Also, 95 RX7s don't the vacuum set up to the upper intake manifold since the primary turbo is in constant vacuum. I had set up a system like that before where I had both the uim vacuum and also a line going to the intake of the turbo. Since the turbo was pulling more boost that stock it was basically pulling oil into the turbo due to the fact that oil tends to creep up the oil filler neck on FDs. the vent I had installed had a check valve which vented when pressure was too much and then it returned to normal when the UIM was doing all the vacuum once pressure was down.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

The correct way to vent a single setup is with a port on the oil filler neck and the twin turbo OEM oil drain on the rear of the engine to a catch-can with a breather filter on it. If you don't want to empty the oil, you can put a drain back into the oil pan via a port on the front cover.

thewird

silver-rex-7

@thewird-the set up that you just mentioned is the set up that I'm currently gathering the parts for. I'm actually purchasing RE-Speed oil neck with -10an fitting, remote oil breather tank, secondary turbo drain fitting, and lines.