Advice Needed On Fuel Setup
01-23-16, 03:31 PM
#1
Advice Needed On Fuel Setup
Hey Guys,
I recently just purchases a GT40r for my 93 FD and I am looking for some guidance when it comes to fuel setup. Right now I have 850cc primaries, 1300cc secondaries and a stock fuel rail. I'm looking for 450whp.
My options are
1. buy 1680cc injectors and an Areomotive FPR but keep the stock fuel rail
2. Rx7store.net Extreme fuel system
3. Rx7store.net Ulitimate fuel system Fuel Systems
any help would be appreciated
I recently just purchases a GT40r for my 93 FD and I am looking for some guidance when it comes to fuel setup. Right now I have 850cc primaries, 1300cc secondaries and a stock fuel rail. I'm looking for 450whp.
My options are
1. buy 1680cc injectors and an Areomotive FPR but keep the stock fuel rail
2. Rx7store.net Extreme fuel system
3. Rx7store.net Ulitimate fuel system Fuel Systems
any help would be appreciated
01-24-16, 09:57 AM
#2
This is the only fully bolt in kit available( all others do not have assembled hose, and most do not have FPR mounts);
Cj MotorSports FPD Rx-7 Fuel System
Its also the best that money can buy by a long shot.
725/2000cc is the combo I would choose for your goals
Cj MotorSports FPD Rx-7 Fuel System
Its also the best that money can buy by a long shot.
725/2000cc is the combo I would choose for your goals
01-24-16, 10:26 AM
#3
This is the only fully bolt in kit available( all others do not have assembled hose, and most do not have FPR mounts);
Cj MotorSports FPD Rx-7 Fuel System
Its also the best that money can buy by a long shot.
725/2000cc is the combo I would choose for your goals
Cj MotorSports FPD Rx-7 Fuel System
Its also the best that money can buy by a long shot.
725/2000cc is the combo I would choose for your goals
01-24-16, 04:51 PM
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
Just get the FFE "step-up" kit, and some ID2000's and your away.
The FFE kit also comes with everything you need...the hose isnt "pre assembled", but man, who cares? FPR mounts directly onto the end of the rail.
If your doing a conversion yourself, having to put a fitting on the end of a hose should be the least of your worries.
There's many people, including myself running this setup...its a tried & tested setup with quality bits.
The FFE kit also comes with everything you need...the hose isnt "pre assembled", but man, who cares? FPR mounts directly onto the end of the rail.
If your doing a conversion yourself, having to put a fitting on the end of a hose should be the least of your worries.
There's many people, including myself running this setup...its a tried & tested setup with quality bits.
Last edited by 96fd3s; 01-24-16 at 04:54 PM.
02-04-16, 06:35 PM
#7
Sorry for the late reply but thanks man
Just get the FFE "step-up" kit, and some ID2000's and your away.
The FFE kit also comes with everything you need...the hose isnt "pre assembled", but man, who cares? FPR mounts directly onto the end of the rail.
If your doing a conversion yourself, having to put a fitting on the end of a hose should be the least of your worries.
There's many people, including myself running this setup...its a tried & tested setup with quality bits.
The FFE kit also comes with everything you need...the hose isnt "pre assembled", but man, who cares? FPR mounts directly onto the end of the rail.
If your doing a conversion yourself, having to put a fitting on the end of a hose should be the least of your worries.
There's many people, including myself running this setup...its a tried & tested setup with quality bits.
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02-05-16, 06:28 PM
#8
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
I wouldn't mess around when it comes to the fuel system on a turbo rotary, especially with those power goals.
If you're running the very old school typical 850cc side feed OEM secondary injectors in a modified primary rail, and bored out 850s to 1300cc secondary injectors, then you're absolutely doing the right thing by upgrading to 2016-spec components.
Moving to EV14 primaries will make a huge improvement in idle quality and drivability and is not to be overlooked--- I don't recommend just upgrading the secondaries as you spend a large part of street driving using only the primary injectors.
The IRP competition fuel kit comes assembled and ready to install and uses quality components, check it out:
IRP Competition Fuel System | IRPerformance
If you're running the very old school typical 850cc side feed OEM secondary injectors in a modified primary rail, and bored out 850s to 1300cc secondary injectors, then you're absolutely doing the right thing by upgrading to 2016-spec components.
Moving to EV14 primaries will make a huge improvement in idle quality and drivability and is not to be overlooked--- I don't recommend just upgrading the secondaries as you spend a large part of street driving using only the primary injectors.
The IRP competition fuel kit comes assembled and ready to install and uses quality components, check it out:
IRP Competition Fuel System | IRPerformance
02-06-16, 09:10 AM
#9
something that always bugged me...
is there a torque setting for AN fittings? how do i know it's tight enough without overtightening and damaging the sealing surfaces?
is it a good idea to use gas compatible thread sealer?
what's the purpose of AN-specific wrenches if they don't measure torque?
should they be inspected every x number of miles to ensure leak-free joints?
is there a torque setting for AN fittings? how do i know it's tight enough without overtightening and damaging the sealing surfaces?
is it a good idea to use gas compatible thread sealer?
what's the purpose of AN-specific wrenches if they don't measure torque?
should they be inspected every x number of miles to ensure leak-free joints?
02-06-16, 09:58 AM
#10
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Use the torque wrench in your elbow 
The larger the fitting, the tighter you can go.
AN wrenches are of a similar material so as to not mar the soft AN fittings. Use standard wrenches and the fittings will promptly look damaged and like poo.
Modified FDs vibrate enough that it's not a bad idea to check tightness of fittings every so often, sure
The larger the fitting, the tighter you can go.
AN wrenches are of a similar material so as to not mar the soft AN fittings. Use standard wrenches and the fittings will promptly look damaged and like poo.
Modified FDs vibrate enough that it's not a bad idea to check tightness of fittings every so often, sure
02-06-16, 12:24 PM
#12
Grease the fittings. I know they say its unncessary/not to do it, but do it anyway. When you grease the fitting threads, you can torque the aluminum harder without galling. You don't need thread sealant, as only NPT fittings seal at the threads. The -AN fittings seal by the flare at the end, no need for sealant.
It's also not a bad idea to slip a little heatshrink over the fitting, where the hose end screws/grips into the fitting. Sometimes I get a little weeping of oil at random times/temperatures for no apparent reason at this gap. A little heat shrink around this area would help!
It's also not a bad idea to slip a little heatshrink over the fitting, where the hose end screws/grips into the fitting. Sometimes I get a little weeping of oil at random times/temperatures for no apparent reason at this gap. A little heat shrink around this area would help!
Last edited by Monsterbox; 02-06-16 at 12:26 PM.
02-19-16, 09:45 PM
#13
Grease the fittings. I know they say its unncessary/not to do it, but do it anyway. When you grease the fitting threads, you can torque the aluminum harder without galling. You don't need thread sealant, as only NPT fittings seal at the threads. The -AN fittings seal by the flare at the end, no need for sealant.
It's also not a bad idea to slip a little heatshrink over the fitting, where the hose end screws/grips into the fitting. Sometimes I get a little weeping of oil at random times/temperatures for no apparent reason at this gap. A little heat shrink around this area would help!
It's also not a bad idea to slip a little heatshrink over the fitting, where the hose end screws/grips into the fitting. Sometimes I get a little weeping of oil at random times/temperatures for no apparent reason at this gap. A little heat shrink around this area would help!
02-20-16, 08:13 AM
#14
Senior Member
something that always bugged me...
is there a torque setting for AN fittings? how do i know it's tight enough without overtightening and damaging the sealing surfaces?
is it a good idea to use gas compatible thread sealer?
what's the purpose of AN-specific wrenches if they don't measure torque?
should they be inspected every x number of miles to ensure leak-free joints?
is there a torque setting for AN fittings? how do i know it's tight enough without overtightening and damaging the sealing surfaces?
is it a good idea to use gas compatible thread sealer?
what's the purpose of AN-specific wrenches if they don't measure torque?
should they be inspected every x number of miles to ensure leak-free joints?
AN fittings most certainly have torque specifications. And if you search you can find them. One problem though is the method of torquing. Since you can't do it with a socket acuracy may suffer. There is however an alternate torque method where you snug it up then turn the fitting a certain amount. Like 1 or 1 1/2 flats. Once again, these things can be found with a web search.
As far as lube, most specs are dry specs, lubing threads before torquing
Reduces friction and if you torque it the same amount, it can be the same as overtorquing.
The bottom line is, find some good technicle documents, and base your decisions on facts, not hearsay.
02-22-16, 10:03 PM
#16
I Dislike Everything
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Figured I would post here instead of starting a new thread.
BNR Stage 2 (yeah, I know)
Large Streetport S5 block
Greddy FMIC
Stock ignition, but will upgrade to LS1/2 coils before I get tuned in May.
I eventually plan on switching to an EFR 7670 or 8374, but not until next year, unless something else is out. Need a setup that will be effective with current setup and eventual future setup. I currently have RC 750 secondaries, but those don't even seem useful.
My future power goal is 425-450rwhp, but I'm happy with 300rwhp on the BNR setup. I was thinking Aeromotive 340lph Stealth, ID 750/2000, but unsure of fuel rails and FPR. Any type of help is much appreciated.
BNR Stage 2 (yeah, I know)
Large Streetport S5 block
Greddy FMIC
Stock ignition, but will upgrade to LS1/2 coils before I get tuned in May.
I eventually plan on switching to an EFR 7670 or 8374, but not until next year, unless something else is out. Need a setup that will be effective with current setup and eventual future setup. I currently have RC 750 secondaries, but those don't even seem useful.
My future power goal is 425-450rwhp, but I'm happy with 300rwhp on the BNR setup. I was thinking Aeromotive 340lph Stealth, ID 750/2000, but unsure of fuel rails and FPR. Any type of help is much appreciated.
02-23-16, 12:23 PM
#17
I'm going from 550cc stock primaries and Bosch 1680cc secondaries in an RX7.com fuel rail and I'm upgrading to the Full Function Engineering 725/2000cc right now. You can see the progress in my build thread with some helpful tips.
My previous fuel system worked great but I bought the car with it and wanted to upgrade to the latest and greatest. You can buy what I just took off my car and it will support 400-450 with the right fuel pump. It has the resistors and adapter harness so you don't need to cut your factory wiring harness. It's very nice actually. PM me if you are interested. Will save you a bunch of $$ if you don't mind buying used. Came out of a running driving car with no issues. Plug and play.
My previous fuel system worked great but I bought the car with it and wanted to upgrade to the latest and greatest. You can buy what I just took off my car and it will support 400-450 with the right fuel pump. It has the resistors and adapter harness so you don't need to cut your factory wiring harness. It's very nice actually. PM me if you are interested. Will save you a bunch of $$ if you don't mind buying used. Came out of a running driving car with no issues. Plug and play.
02-24-16, 01:17 PM
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
You should probably go ahead and buy the Walbro E85 pump with is like 450lph.
Also, I think the ID 750s and ID 1000s are the same price... if so, you should buy the larger injector.
02-25-16, 10:58 AM
#20
Yes the Supra pump is good and it's one of the better in tank pumps for 400 HP due to its flow under high pressures. It's biggest drawback is it also pulls more AMPs than most pumps at higher fuel pressures that you will have under boost. The factory wiring and tank bulkhead isn't up to the task so you need to upgrade the bulkhead connection and wiring when using a Supra TT Denso pump.
I'm also considering my options on pumps I've considered running 2 pumps as CJ Mororsports has a nice solution for dual in-tank pumps. It's better to run one pump if you can as far as most people are concerned. There are one pump solutions for the power level you intend to run. The Bosch 044 was recommended to me but it says it's an in-line pump from what I've seen. Maybe there is also an in-tank version?
02-25-16, 12:12 PM
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
^ all that you need to do is cut the little bulb thing off the bottom of the tube on the stock fuel pump holder, then attach new fuel pump to the hardline where you just cut the bulb off, with submersible rubber hose & some hose clamps
Then you will need to clamp the new fuel pump to the stock hanger with a hose clamp or similar of appropriate size
oh, and wiring. You will want to install a relay & fuse and rewire direct power to the pump
Then you will need to clamp the new fuel pump to the stock hanger with a hose clamp or similar of appropriate size
oh, and wiring. You will want to install a relay & fuse and rewire direct power to the pump
02-25-16, 01:59 PM
#23
The 450 and most aftermarket pumps draw more current than the stock wiring can handle. The stock wiring is even undersized for the stock pump. Cut off the fitting of the pipe in the fuel tank. Its just another failure point. Debur the end and install the pump with in-tank fuse hose and proper hose clamps. For the wiring the relay is one thing, but you really need to address the undersized wiring at the connector. I like to depin the stock connector, and install larger pins with 10 gauge wiring.
02-25-16, 09:02 PM
#24
^ all that you need to do is cut the little bulb thing off the bottom of the tube on the stock fuel pump holder, then attach new fuel pump to the hardline where you just cut the bulb off, with submersible rubber hose & some hose clamps
Then you will need to clamp the new fuel pump to the stock hanger with a hose clamp or similar of appropriate size
oh, and wiring. You will want to install a relay & fuse and rewire direct power to the pump
Then you will need to clamp the new fuel pump to the stock hanger with a hose clamp or similar of appropriate size
oh, and wiring. You will want to install a relay & fuse and rewire direct power to the pump
02-25-16, 09:03 PM
#25
The 450 and most aftermarket pumps draw more current than the stock wiring can handle. The stock wiring is even undersized for the stock pump. Cut off the fitting of the pipe in the fuel tank. Its just another failure point. Debur the end and install the pump with in-tank fuse hose and proper hose clamps. For the wiring the relay is one thing, but you really need to address the undersized wiring at the connector. I like to depin the stock connector, and install larger pins with 10 gauge wiring.