R1DREAD

I went to the track with my BP with bittersweet results. I had my highest mph--133, but I only ran 11.1 Still no 10's. I ran 27 lbs of boost, no nos. The car is still really loud but power is great!

SPOautos

Damn, that 133mph with a extremely good launch and slicks could have you running VERY low 10's or maybe even a real high 9!!!!!!!

crispeed

What's your 60ft?
What was your 1/8 time and mph?
How much power are you making?

In my opinion you should have gotten a much higher mph for a BP at 27 psi! Just for reference one of my customer's FC gets consistent 130mph trap speeds running at 20psi with a BP TII motor.

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph
651RWHP/520RWTQ

R1DREAD

My 60 ft was 1.8
1/8 mile was 104
my launch rpm was to low 5700 with ET streets,should have been 7800 i am now learning to tune the the BP with the 4 1600's yes i know it should be making more power. if i knew what i was doing when i did the BP.
Cris help me out and BP a motor for me .
How much power would i make at 30psi and your BP
Did not dyno it guess it has about 540 my car weighs 2880 with me in it

crispeed

You need to lower your 60 ft! That seems to be what's holding you back from running in the 10's.
You should take it to the dyno and get a baseline run to see what's up.

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph
651RWHP/520RWTQ

R1DREAD

I took it to the dyno 2 months ago and it made 485 same boost with a non ported motor.
I think if i had a good motor it would make alot more power one of my rotors is dented pretty bad. it sputters really bad when i do the burnout but when i launch ,it goes out clean,vacume is really low 5 -7in.hg . I think i have a fuel problem at 8400 duty cycle is 100% my brother has the same fuel system and he has no problems i need pump that i can drive with every day and make long trips with . what should my fuel pressure be with the vacume pulled?
Barry

crispeed

Base fuel pressure should be between 40 and 45psi with the vacume pulled. Vacume at idle depends on idle rpm,ignition and port timing. The dent on the rotor is from abnormal combustion(detonation,pre-ignition etc.) The sputtering during the burnout is a tuning issue.

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph
651RWHP/520RWTQ

Exit13B

Hey everyone... I have not updated in awhile, but nothing had really happened until yesterday.
Well, the insurance company is TOTALLING my car. It has nothing to do with the damage to the chassis (minor) but due to the total $$$ involved due to the exhaust taking the major hit, and breaking the turbo manifold, and other fun items. What an insult. I am trying to fight the process, but I will have to see what happens. I have been super busy getting the new shop open (opps! I just spilled a secret). I'll update everyone on that as soon as we are ready. Quick hint - 6500 Square Feet of ROTARIES!!!

I am so angry about the car that I could be tempted to part it out before it even makes it to the track. Hmmm... maybe I should backhalf it instead? haha.. be on the lookout for that as a new voting option thread! ?!

George

13BAce

Sorry to hear about that George. I think that you should re-build it even better. That transmission and motor sound too cool.

Felix Wankel

So if you were to cut a bridge in the center housing also, you would need one piece apex seals? I'm going to fully bridgeport my 12A and just need to know what apex seals to buy

RICE RACING

Son, You can run the 2 or 3 piece if the rotor housing is not relieved (small bridge) If you match or relieve the rotor housings on one side then you can reverse the seals, if it's both primary and secondary then you can ONLY run one piece seals.

Carbon, steel, or ceramic, take your pick.

Felix Wankel

I'm glad you answered

So would it be better to do a half bridge, or two unrelieved bridges? I'm trying to keep costs down, since money is tight at the moment, but I want my damn car back on the road.

peejay

Which seals get turned around if you use 3-piece seals? I assume that the end piece goes *towards* the bridge, it seems to me that the top part of the seal could slide out if the other side faced the bridge... but I could be wrong eh?

RICE RACING

If I were to do it, I would choose a half bridge, they are the best option for a vehicle that is on the street as they are not as affected by "near legal" exhausts compared to full bridge or PP. But the big reason is that the flow potential is greater with a matching slot in the rotor housing than without it.

You gotta remember with Bridge ports they do their work (most of it) right at the begining of the intake stroke, with no relief in the rotor housing it looses alot of it's opening flow potential not to mention scavenging which is it's main function.

I think soul assasin had a good example of the type of port to run for a secondary bridge, but yeah if you do it make sure the rotor housings has a matching "eyebrow" cut out of it for best results.

RX Steve

Did some one say he was working hard to open a new shop?????


I'm interested in purchasing a shitload more parts for my RX-7 (see my "Lightest RX-7 with A/C" Post in Third gen section

Steve

Greg

http://www.sevenspeed.com

Grizzly

Sounds like you've built a beast.

Is it true that Bridges only have power over 6.000 rpm. Not saying you thrash a new engine or any thing just intredsted.

I cant belive all these posts on Bridges as i am just about to build a Partial.

Did you make Big extra ports? and did you cange the Port timing?

Thanks.......Chris

Exit13B

Hey everyone! I feel like I have let all of my friends on here down by disappearing for so long! I've been super busy getting the new shop operating smoothly, and also have a new baby due in two weeks. I just cut out some trick rotor decals to adorn his new ride -- the ones that came with the bouncy buggy just didn't cut it!
Well, the BP project car is still sitting in the back corner of the shop. At least it is kept company by over a dozen Rx-7's! The insurance company finally sent a specialty appraiser in last week to establish a new valuation for the car. Valuation > Estimate = no totaling of car. The appraiser was very attentive to the modifications to the car, and gave me a VERY favorable estimate of what his final appraisal will be. So, I will either have a totaled car or a check in about a week.
Can anyone guess what the best way to fix a rear-ended car is? I was thinking back halving would be a good solution? Hehe, I hate to keep copying from crispeed, but the 2nd gens just can't put the power down like an FD without BREAKING THINGS frequently. So, I am completely in a toss up between parting the 2nd gen and building another sick 3rd gen for the shop, or getting out the torches and cut-off wheels again! Maybe I'll start another interactive thread with really bizarre voting options like: a) backhalf the stupid car b) part out FC, and build another FD c) buy house d) invest in IRA. What do you think? Any space ghost c2c fans?? (cut cut cut cut cut cut cut, cut cut cut cut cut cut cut cut...)

George
sevenspeed.com

Node

iTrader: (1)

Probly feels like I'm stalking you by now, but don't worry, I don't know where you live, only where you work.
Anyways space ghost rocks! But wouldn't a backhalf make it a drag only car, since you'd probly slap in some ford 9" and thick axles so it wouldn't have much suspension. But by your engine and tranny doesn't look like you do much other than accelerate.
Hmmm, maybe you can do it yourself and have a SevenSpeed Dragster.
Take her to the tri-state drags.

Exit13B

Yep, that's the idea. The latest incarnation was purpose built for drag, thus the drag transmission. I made it to a few events last year, and was gearing up for the 2002 season. Problem is, I break things like axles and rear ends EVERY time I go to the track. Often, I do not even leave the line; I just hear a loud snap, and jump out of the car and start pushing quickly before the gear oil leaks out and causes a delay for cleanup. I have not made it to the track with the new transmission, since I did the BP work at the same time, and was arriving at the dyno location the day I was rear-ended. I was hoping that the tranny would make up for time lost on the line with softer launches that don't break things...... but then I watch chrispeed's video again, and again. Hooking up is super cool. Ford 9"? Not sure. The 5.0 fans say it is a very lossy rear end, but that is getting too domesticated for me! The pissedon experts say the 8.8 is the way to go if under 800hp -- big HP savings. I'll get back to you once I break a few and become an expert! At least when I break FORD rear ends, I will have a genuine excuse for the skeptic domestic onlookers!

George
sevenspeed.com

peejay

The 8.8 sucks! If you break an axle, it's no longer attached to the car and it can/will go flying. You can't go faster than 10.99 or something like that with a stock 8.8, you'll have to get C-clip eliminators and those just plain suck. The 9" is a little lossier but that's more than offset by the fact that it's so much stronger!

I vote for "find another FC shell and transplant the Evil Stuff into it" by the way

crispeed

That's why I run a Mopar 8.75 and not a Ford!
The 8.8 should hold up with a good LSD unit or spool with some good axles and offcourse the c-clip eliminators. Also the aluminium cover with the main cap girdle built in!

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph

crispeed

Hey George!
You're not copying me! You're being smart! The more the merrier!
Plus I'm not backhalfed or mini tubbed as yet! Note:as yet!

crispeed
87TII
9.20@150mph

Exit13B

I am almost ashamed to learn the way of the slow-mestic, but it is a necessary evil I suppose! Well, I may have sold my 3rd gen today -- so that means I can get a house, and still fix the FC. Maybe. I change my mind frequently. The FC body is not that bad -- it is just that the original valuation of my car was based on a stock '87! You can imagine that it is very easy for the estimate to exceed that value -- especially since the exhaust took the majority of the hit, and damaged an expensive manifold and one-off downpipe. I bet the actual damage to the car itself is less than $2k. Hmm... I was forgetting that your setup still keeps the factory wheel wells, Chris! I wish I could duplicate your setup and save some money. I can deal with the weight, I just want a stronger rear end. Wanna sell your shell Chris? Then you can build a full tube frame car and set some new world records!
I was rebuilding another REW today, and was looking closely at the intake manifolds after all the talk of Scoot's setup. It is tempting to start drilling more holes into the block!!! First things first, I just need to get the car rolling again!

George
sevenspeed.com

Exit13B

Hey everyone, just thought I would post yet another update. Everything is completed with the insurance company, and the FC will roll again. My Electromotive TEC III should arrive on monday (2-25), and I plan to install it immediately. My TEC II was damaged in the accident, and sent back for repairs. I opted to upgrade instead when I learned the TEC III's were shipping. I'll keep everyone updated with the progress here, and possibly on the ECU forum. Should I start a new thread here by now, or let this thing keep growing? My FD sold last night, which was a very very sad occasion. I am having massive rotary withdrawl, so the FC needs to be driving again SOON.