Bob Holton

I have been told it can be done. But being easily confused ,is there a step by step set of dierctions available ??? The RX7 dizzy is still in place and the points dizzy is woerrking , Where dooo the wires all go? Wacky I am ready to do it now. Bob

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

so do you have a 81-85 dizzy installed in the car? if it is, I will give you a step by step tutorial but its gonna be a long one so I will do it this weekend. In fact, your timing is right as I have one to do this weekend. also, your e-mail is not working and cant send you a PM thru the forum.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

also is this a direct fire with MSD 6A/6AL box OR with factory igniters?

MadChad

What time shall I be down there Wacky for the tutorial?---MadChad

TulsaTurbo

Hey guys, I have a small writeup on that subject here:

Rx3Club (DLIDFIS)

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

thanks tulsa. you just save me from writing a long tutorial.

Bob Holton

I was hopeing for a direct plug in switch over ,as I have a single dizzy to start with. Bob

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Bob,
here are pix of my installs using dual mazda factory igniters for the leading plugs. Mainly, each coil will get an igniter but the wires to the back of the igniters are controlled by the distributor. The DLIDFIS works as good as using MSD boxes.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Geocities shut down all their websites the other day so that's why you can't find my DLIDFIS writeup anymore.

88SE_HI

iTrader: (2)

Thats a cool site, too bad this section doesn't have a sticky to find sites like yours.

migz808

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a used MSD 6a for a direct fire system on my RX4, but I am really inspired by the setup on the DLIDFIS since I already have the parts. I guess the MSD 6A will be going to the old Corolla.

Pardon me for being a noob on electricals. I do have a question on how the 30 amp ignition relay will be wired and sequenced with the trail and lead coils . I kind of have an idea and I did a MS paint schematic on it. Please correct me if I am doing the wiring wrong. I am only showing partial schematic for the ignition relay, but it will be wired for DLIDFIS.


My next question is the on the ignition switch connector side.

1- Do I only use the hot leads for the +Trailing(Brown & White) and +Leading(Black & White wire)??

2- With the exception of the +Lead and +Trail what about the rest of the wires below??



3- What are their purpose?? Do I need them connected anywhere???

Hopefully I did not confuse the hell out of anybody, but better be safe than sorry later if i am doing it wrong.

Thanks,

Mike

xp882

iTrader: (1)

mel how much do you charge to do this set up?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

this is my passion so just bring a 12pack of cold heines along with wires (16 gauge green red and black), fog lights relay, buttless connectors, extra coil and jumbo size zip ties (to join the 3 coils) and we're set to go. just be sure to prep the aluminum plate where the 2 leading igniters will go.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

let me make it as simple as possible.

each leading coil will get an igniter wherien the back end will be connected in series-parallel circuit to the dizzy.


you can use a fog light relay (or whatever you prefer) to apply 12V to the 3 coils. the relay will be controlled by the 12V from the stock ignition harness. this will ensure that you will get a full 12V, instead of partial, plus a security sytem (theft and peace of mind that you wont have a short or electrical fire).

I have done it many times in friend cars and it works as good as having a MSD 6A. I have several MSD boxes so the DLIDFIS is not installed in my own cars. I have to give props to [SIZE="5"JEFF20B[/SIZE] for this idea.

Bob Holton

Ok Guys; I can understand points and condensers ,but I am too darn old to understand the above,and yall are too far away to look over your sholder. I stand pat. Thanks. Bob

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

They just archived your site Jeff. Here's the new link:

http://web.archive.org/web/200805031...ies.com/cd23c/

Hope that helps.

Todd B.

migz808

iTrader: (1)

Well I ditched my original ignition setup on my 1974 RX4 and ventured towards DLIDFIS since I had all the parts lying around. Iam using the 2 original Diamond coils for LEAD and 1 Blaster for TRAIL.

Original:



I took the original 2 coil holder and bolted it with a single Toyota ignition holder to it. I bought an aluminum plate for $4 from Ace and bent it to shape to cover the three coils. I placed and screwed the 2 J109 igniters on top of the plate. I also drilled 2 passages on the bottom for both the J109 (-s) & (+g) terminals.





I wired it with a Bocsh 30amp relay:



I finally finished all the wiring and before I fired up I tested with the ignition on if all coils were getting power to the termintals and they did.

I started the car, but it did not fire up. I am not getting any spark from either the trailing or leading coils at all. I got an old spark plug as well and plugged it to every wire leading to all plugs and did not see any spark.

Took the test light again with the switch ON and checked both - and + terminals on all coils and all lit up

Then I checked if power was going to the trailing igniter on the distributor and there was power.

I then checked the leading side, but no power was going to the gutted igniter from the 2 joined J109s. I first checked the gutter igniter from the distributor and it was fine.

I decided to do make a simple igniter tester to test first the 2 j109 igniters powering the gutted trailing igniter. Following the illustration from the RX7 manual.



Tested the 1st igniter and the bulb did not light up. Tested the 2nd one and the bulb lit up. I also decided to test the 3rd igniter from the distributor on the trailing side and it did also lite up.

Will one bad igniter cause everything not to fire or get any spark on all plugs??

I followed Jeff20B's writeup and looked up Tulsa Turbo's Option #3 schematics. I really don't know what else I could have missed or maybe wired wrong. Pardon the messy MS paint schematic that I did.



I also have a question on my diagram bellow on how the power supplied from the original lead and trail ignition.

Also is the ignition relay wiring OK??

86 - connected to leading and trailing power. Both (hot) with key on.

85 - ground

30 - connected to battery with a 30amp fuse.

87 - connected to + terminal one of the leading coils. Does it matter which first+ coil it is connected to????



Sorry for the long writeup. Can you guys see if I did something else wrong in the process.

I am also looking for extra J109 igniters if you guys have any extras that you can sell. Please PM me I do need them ASAP.



Thanks,

Mike

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

igniter as in one of these

migz808

iTrader: (1)

Holy Sh*t!! Thats why all the igniters are all gone everytime I go to the JY. Sup, Mel! Sell me at least 3 or 4 of those things.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The gutted ignitor is NOT supposed to have power when you turn the system on. I recommend a couple of filed down quick disconnects. Easier to set up and easier to troubleshoot in the future if needed (I've never needed to).

migz808

iTrader: (1)

I got a hold of some good J109s today and swapped out the bad one. I again tried to fire it up still no spark anywhere at all.

Jeff20b:

"The gutted ignitor is NOT supposed to have power when you turn the system on."

OK no power when the system is ON, but it's supposed to have JUICE at crank right??? I sure don't see it during crank.

I also noticed 2 ways the gutted igniter was wired.

First from Mel's:



Second is from Tulsa's site:



Does it matter either way???

migz808

iTrader: (1)

First off I PM'ed Tulsa Turbo for using his diagrams to make a comparisson on both DLIDFIS illustrations from his site. If for any reasons he does not approve of it please (Mods) remove it and I shall delete it as well from my albums.

Anyhow I read Jeff20b's instructions again and looked at all the diagram connection options. I noticed the on the first diagram and option 3 diagram on Tulsa Turbo's site that the connections from the Igniter terminals are switched.

The first diagram (illustration 1) I noticed with the DR100 igniters C terminals are connected to the (-) of the coils and the B terminals are connected to the (+). Then I looked at the Option 3 diagram (illustration 2) which uses J-109 igniters. The C terminals are connected to the (+) side of the coils and the B terminals are connected to the (-) side of the coils.



Does it differ in connections if you are using Dr100 igniters or J-109 igniters. Does it even matter if C or B terminal is connected to -/+ side of the coil??

I followed the illustration 2 diagram and I don't know if that might be my problem of not having any spark. On the instructions written by Jeff20B he is more describing illustration 1. Should I try illustration 1 connections or is it something else I am doing wrong?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

assuming that you did everything correctly and still not getting spark at start-up, try this:

connect the fog lights relay's 30 amp and the ignition wire (terminal 85 or 86) directly to the battery + or alternator's b-terminal. this will ensure that you have 12-V going to all 3 coils. then crank away. if it starts, LMK.

TulsaTurbo

The image above is incorrect. My bad, sorry about that... B is always positive and C is negative

migz808

iTrader: (1)

Mods please remove the DLIDFIS comparisson that I did above using Tulsa Turbo's picture. I do apologize to Tulsa Turbo (JB) for jumping the gun on the pictures! I also sent a request to a Mod just in case.

I'll rewire my setup again and Mel, I'll try what you mentioned above.

Thanks,

Mike