BMWWW

Works like a charm.

For such a low price, its all I could ask for!


Works well by hand, but even better with a rotary and a light-cut pad!:ca

I didn't use it on the inside. Remarkably, this "thing" worked better than my wet-sanding and compounding--and OH so quick and dirty as well. --I couldn't' find a really high-grit sandpaper, so I didn't do a good job on my attempt eons ago.

This polish actually works REALLY well-- a few hits with it on my edge 6" green flat pad, and rotary @1500, then to 1000, a few times took down MOST of the scratches on the outer lens. I could do better by taping off the edges, and stepping down to a finishing pad, but I don't see the need, as its 100 times better than before already.

It works relatively well by hand as well-- I was ASTONISHED by the results from hand, and knew immediately it could do better via machining!


Even by hand and MF, it does surprisingly well with enough elbowgrease and heat!


Don't hesitate to ask questions, or to contact me if you need help!:bigups

I'd like to help some local members out, so if you're local in Richmond Hill, and could use a hand, I'm definitely down, schedule dependent!

My thread on autopia
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ml#post1289123

edson

iTrader: (1)

I've got to try this out

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I use the meguires brand and that works like a charm. Not sure what the pricing is on it. But on heavier buildups you would normally have to wetsand with about 2000 grit then buff it out with this.

BMWWW

It is true that there are still deep scratches remaining--only really visible at night, when the headlights are turned on.

But despite that, the cutting pad + rotary made SERIOUS business, and massive improvements.

I HIGHLY advise everyone to do the same first--only because it isn't as time nor labor intensive as wetsanding, and the results may just be good enough to bypass wetsanding.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

It only takes about 30 minutes or so to wetsand both head lights.

BMWWW

This, takes, just, about, as long, as, it, takes, to, type, this, sentence.

No seriously, about 30 seconds with the rotary, done. Do it maybe 2 more times per headlight, and you're under 5 minutes.

Dead serious.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I just spent the $40 and bought new headlights.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Where do you get this Stuff?..store.

Bass

Stuff sounds good! I'm gonna give it a shot on the Matrix and Frontier. Can you get it at Crappy Tire.

BMWWW

Eshine.ca

http://www.eshine.ca/duragloss_681_p...h_8oz-2526.php

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

Based on some google searches, I'm not certain that the person endorsing this product is entirely impartial, but for the record he is telling the truth and the pictures are accurate. I used this product on a Civic with lenses more discoloured than above and the results were remarkable and very quick. I simply used a cloth by hand.

The lenses have other buildup/damage (not sure which) that you can only see up close. I think I will have to try wet sanding this area and then reapplying the polish.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

If its really heavy, you could try something a little bit more course. I normally try to scrape it off with my nails first to make sure its on the outside as dirt can also be trapped on the inside provided that the seal is starting to go, or water has made its way through the inside from the bulb holes.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Just use rubbing compound.

If the lights have scaled (looks like alligator skin/small cracks) you'll only take it off by wetsanding. And at that point, you're only buying time because the UV protection is gone (thats what the scaley layer is)

If they look like the OP's headlights, just foggy, you can use rubbing compound just the same as you would on the exterior of the car and it'll turn out the same. GARUNTEED.

There's far too many gimicky headlamp polishing products out there. Its ridiculous. Most of them just bottle up rubbing compound anyways and give you three pieces of 2" x 2" 1500 grit wet paper.

Buy a bottle of 3M Perfectit III and do your headlights, as well as the rest of your car.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

meguiar 105 followed by 205 works wonders also ... I do hear what you're saying Joe, and the only reason that I had that meguiars headlight bottle was because it was given to me for free

BMWWW

snrub, I actually did google searches and searched on autopia for reviews of this, and didn't find any good ones, which is why I spent the time to do so.

Anyways, before I tried the 681, I had previously wetsanded and used the Menzerna twins (IP/FP) on them, and whilst it did a good job, it was obviously very abrasive, and all hopes of having the UV coating were out the door.

I can't tell whether or not this is abrasive enough to take out the UV coating, as I didn't start with one.

And yes, I just did a touchup job this past weekend as it wasn't as clear as before. Only this time, I just held my cutting pad in my hand, and hand-polished it with my cutting pad. Worked quite wells surprisingly.

I'm an advocate of trying out the least abrasive methods, and working my way up the ladder when machine polishing, and I feel that this is the least abrasive method. This product works much faster than compounding/final polishing, and the results are phenomenal.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I recently used the Permatix lens restoration kit on the passenger side headlight of my Insight. Oddly, it had crazed to the point it was almost opaque yet the drivers side was fine. It took just over an hour to go through the 4 grits of paper used to wet sand (I think 1500-3000) and then about 20 more minutes to use the plastic polish. Abrasive methods are the only ones that will work for seriously crazed lenses or those with scratches. The result was well worth the $15 the kit cost, and for my effort the headlight looks 98% new.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I don't why but honda's area really bad with that it seems.