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I was planning to go n/a on my 94 fd. if i remove the turbo set up and use the n/a headers will the car run? do i need to change the ecu? i wanted to run a set up like the videos below. thanks for your help
You'll need a tuneable ECU. the stock ECU will dump way too much fuel for N/A.
Might I ask why you want to go N/A? Are you autoxing or something?
If you really want an N/A, you might think about finding a Series 5 N/A. It's lighter and will make more N/A HP than an REW with the turbos ripped out.
Agreed. Although, I think s5 rotors will fit in a 3rd gen engine. Well, the turbo motor is built to have low compression....which is totally opposite of what you want to do in a n/a build. s5 n/a rotors, i think are the highest compression rotors you can get that are oem. If you take the turbos off, the car will be SUPER SLOW because the low compression ratio.
series 5 n/a? what car does that motor come from? also can i use a fc ecu for the fd without turbos? thanks sloasfk
psychotic7, i thought the n/a 13 b and fd twin turbo 13b are the same because the fd doesnt last as long as the fc because of the turbos. if it is lower compression shouldnt it last just as long as an n/a 13b? it seems that the fc n/a and fd tt lifespan are drastically different. also i see a lot of fc's n/a just slap on turbo kits.
Last edited by stuntdriver087; 07-01-08 at 01:14 AM.
ok, aside from the obvious question of why the hell would you want to do that....
Why would it run overly rich? If he runs NA the max pressure the map sensor will see is ~0psi, which will correlate to the stock fuel map exactly the same as if it had the turbo still on it. I dont know how rich the stock fuel map runs the engine at 0psi, but i would assume that its not overly rich. In addition, there would be greatly releive backpressure due to the lack of a turbo, which would cause the car to run even leaner than if it had a turbo. Not saying a programmable ecu wont help since the engine should be able to flow more at 0psi than with the turbo, but i think the car would run ok.
series 5 n/a? what car does that motor come from? also can i use a fc ecu for the fd without turbos? thanks sloasfk
psychotic7, i thought the n/a 13 b and fd twin turbo 13b are the same because the fd doesnt last as long as the fc because of the turbos. if it is lower compression shouldnt it last just as long as an n/a 13b? it seems that the fc n/a and fd tt lifespan are drastically different. also i see a lot of fc's n/a just slap on turbo kits.
.. what?
no, the S6 rotors are lower compression because they came from the factory with turbos, whereas the S5 N/A rotors are higher compression because they had no forced induction.
What the fuck are you even talking about?
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series 5 n/a? what car does that motor come from? also can i use a fc ecu for the fd without turbos?
Series 5s are 89-92 FCs. The S5 N/A rotors are lighter and higher compression than FD and TII rotors. They do fit in an REW block, however the N/A block will also give you the 6 port setup, whereas all turbo motors are 4 port. Having a functional 6 port system will help increase your power and smooth your power band on an N/A.
I'd suggest simply buying an N/A S5, whole car, as it's about 200lbs lighter than an FD and comes with the 165hp S5 N/A motor in it already. No muss, no fuss. Lighter car, the motor you want, and leave the FD for someone who wants to go fast lol.
You can run an FD with no turbos, no problem. Just pull them out, stick on a header, rip out the intercooler, and stick a cone filter on the intake elbow.
You will lose about 100HP and your car will be slow as hell, but no reason why it wouldnt work. If you want to get back to stock FD power it will take a hell of a good port job to get you there and you will never have the low end power back without a turbo.
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Ok, enough of the bashing guys, I think he's gotten the point
I'll leave the thread open for constructive posts......if you have anything non-constructive to post, please keep it to yourself
thanks.
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if you like that car so much he's selling it for 8k! He was going to sell it to me until I found out it was N/A, But now I'm thinking about buying it, and just doing a 1jz TT swap =]
BUT
if you want it let me know, if you dont let me know too! =]
yeah you can run NA with no problems. I essentially ran my car NA just last week when my throttle body elbow blew into 2 pieces. The car was so slow. Even lightly accelerating in 5th gear from 60 mph with a couple psi from the turbo makes a huge difference in the way the car feels compared to no turbo. You honestly probably wont like it much. I think a better way to go NA is to put an LS1 or something in place of the rotary. But thats a totally different kind of sin that many people wont agree with either.
__________________ 500+ rwhp thanks to:
Fast reacting open element IAT, Pre turbo water injection, master power t70 @ 23psi, streetport, pfc, twinpower, greddy plugs, ebay intercooler, 3" exhaust, cold air intake,TII LSD, solid mounts, braces, wideband, datalogit, my tune, dual FD fuel pumps, profec b, 550/1680
i've ran my fd at months at a time as N/A -- and daily driven. it's not as bad as people let on. it's not rx7 fast, it's civic fast. the only sucky part is climbing hills. just get some good speed going.
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