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At the digitaltuning.com site when it comes to the ordering section there is a drop down box for S4 NA, but it only lists years 87 and 88 not 86. Is this an oversight. Also, what does ITS mods mean which costs an additional $50.
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Just trying to make heads out of tails. If "ITS" stands for Pocketlogger then which Pocketlogger comes with the 2.0 version for an 86 RX7. From your online site I have deduced it is not "DSM Pocketlogger", nor is it "OBDII Pocketlogger", so is it the "ZT Pocketlogger" version or am I missing something. Also, if I were to purchase version 2.0 and had to send the Ecu in to be "rechipped" could I also send you my PDA and have you load the software for me or is that out of the question. And does the Pocketlogger version for the 86 RX7 allow for datalogging as the versions listed above allow.
The PDA takes 2 seconds to load the software, it's extremely easy. Have you ever synchronized your Palm before? Yes? Then you can install the software.
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Captain Guardrail / Master Crab Rapist / Crop Dusting Mod
Wow, I dont even know where to start. You are quite confused.
ITS stands for "Improved Touring", it has nothing to do with PocketLOGGER or DTI.. As the link I posted describes, its an SCCA class that requires the ECU to appear stock. With a wire hanging out the side (as needed for the stage 2) it would not pass tech inspection, so we have the "ITS mod" which hides the cable inside.
The software comes with the stage 2. Its official name is "Pocketlogger for RX7". The DSM, OBDII and ZT loggers have nothing to do with the Rtek ECUs. They are seperate products.
No, you need to install the software yourself. I mean we could do it, but if you let the battery die, you'll need to reinstall. And you arent going to want to send it to us just to reinstall it. So you are better off learning how to install the software yourself.
The PocketLOGGER doesnt allow you to do anything. It's the "Stage 2" ECU that enables you to datalog. You shouldnt think about the Rtek Stage 2 ECU and the PocketLOGGER software as two seperate things. They are both required.
Sorry for the confusion but I just looked at the title of the link you provided pertaining to "ITS" and saw the term "Pocketlogger" and wrongly assumed it meant pocketlogger.I'll try to limit my faux pax's from now on. Next question I have is the plug and play ability of version 2.0 in my RX7 NA. Do the parameters embedded in the ecu after conversion from stock to your version exactly mirror the parameters already currently in the ecu in my car or would the modified ecu be sent to me already set up to improve the performance of my engine with regards to gas mileage and or power gains.
Wow, I dont even know where to start. You are quite confused.
ITS stands for "Improved Touring", it has nothing to do with PocketLOGGER or DTI.. As the link I posted describes, its an SCCA class that requires the ECU to appear stock. With a wire hanging out the side (as needed for the stage 2) it would not pass tech inspection, so we have the "ITS mod" which hides the cable inside.
The software comes with the stage 2. Its official name is "Pocketlogger for RX7". The DSM, OBDII and ZT loggers have nothing to do with the Rtek ECUs. They are seperate products.
No, you need to install the software yourself. I mean we could do it, but if you let the battery die, you'll need to reinstall. And you arent going to want to send it to us just to reinstall it. So you are better off learning how to install the software yourself.
The PocketLOGGER doesnt allow you to do anything. It's the "Stage 2" ECU that enables you to datalog. You shouldnt think about the Rtek Stage 2 ECU and the PocketLOGGER software as two seperate things. They are both required.
The ecu is just like stock when you get it from us. Any tuning is up to you to do.
When it comes to finding a Tuner would require traveling 250 miles(Dallas) or 400 miles(St. Louis). This is not something I am willing to do be it fortunate or not. So my predicament is having the ecu set up to where I can benefit or get value from the expense associated with having the ecu rechipped. Since my engine is 100% stock are there any solutions to this. An example I guess would be could you provide tuning parameters that are specific for a virgin engine that would help to unlock the Rtek capabilities or would I basically be up a creek w/o a paddle. I know someone who can tune a rival system within an hours drive from me but I am trying to make the transition as simplistic as possible and hopefully you can understand this. I have heard numerous positive things about Rtek products and would like to have it in my car. I appreciate your time, Andy.
you'd be up a creek without a paddle by yourself. Fortunately:
I've tuned my stock engine to great effect with the Rtek. If they can tune a rival system, they can tune the Rtek; it's not a hard system at all.
Do you already have your exhaust and intake modified?
Exhaust and intake are just as they were from the factory. Did you do your tuning after modifications or before. I guess I am an obvious newb to this and that is my basis for not understanding why if the car is completely stock would it be difficult to find the settings to increase performance. All of my sensors are in proper working condition,the timing is set properly,and i do not have a problem with any electrical gremlins. I don't grasp why my stock setup is different from anyone elses stock setup. And thanks Roen for chiming in and helping a fellow New Yorker ( Manhattan born).
I did my tuning after mods, and I believe that finding ways to stuff as much air into the engine as possible takes precendence over utilizing that air as efficiently as possible. You could find the settings to increase performance on a stock car, but you'd probably get more from the exhaust than you would from tuning the ECU (stock for stock).
Not to take away a potential sale, turbo2ltr, but I believe exhaust is critical to power on a rotary, then intake and then ECU tuning, with regards to a stock motor. If you have no emissions restrictions in your state, or if you can get by them, I would recommend using a full exhaust system. If this is going to be a street car, look into Racing Beat's Road Race system.
After that, look to K&N for a good cone air filter and make your own cold air box, or use the one from Mariah Motorsports. Find a way to get fresh air that's been unheated by the engine bay into that box.
After all of that is when you should consider using a programmable fuel device. I like the Rtek because it's the cheapest ECU that allows control of both fuel and timing. I like it better than the piggybacks because it acutally changes the fuel table, rather than tricking the ECU through altered AFM readings. Plus, timing adjustment is critical for power, response and reliability.
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Captain Guardrail / Master Crab Rapist / Crop Dusting Mod
If you were choosing between doing one or the other, I would agree that breathing mods (intake/exhaust) would probably get you more HP than a tune on a stock car. But at the same time, tuning is the only way to get the most out of the mods you do have. So in reality, you need both.
The real question is: what is your plan for the car? Do you plan to mod it up a lot or keep it pretty stock? If you plan to keep it pretty stock, then a stage 2 is probably overkill.
We have an ad in Grassroots Motorsports right now in an effort to capture some of that market. If you have any specific marketing ideas, I'm all ears. email me support at pocketlogger.
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